Journeyman 557e801cd4784d8ff835b38f3ce0382fce2b6648a740d3c63b0eb4abb5a716fbJourneyman
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Question Answered: When started the gauges don't light for a few seconds and jump right then back
August 17, 2014, 09:50 AM
It sounds like the MIC (mechanical instrument cluster) is doing a self test. Have the battery and starter tested, it could be that even though it starts, if the battery voltage drops below 9volts the MIC will do self test (the gauges will sweep). Many times people will assume that if the car starts the battery and starter must be good, but that is not always the case. A good battery will hold a minimum of 9.5 volts cranking and really should hold even more - like 10-10.5 volts. The starter can also affect this if it draws higher than normal current it will drop the battery voltage below the minimum. Most late model cars have a gear reduction start and will crank fast enough to start even when the battery voltage drops under 9 volts - the point at which the MIC will "reset" and do a self test. It is more likely a battery issue than starter, I would replace have the battery tested first. Robert Grove, ASE Certified World Class Technician
Question Answered: Is it good for the ground wire on map sensor harness to show 0 when tested?
August 04, 2014, 05:29 PM
Using a digital voltmeeter you should have slightly above zero, set your meter to read two decimal places to the right and check it with the key on. The reading will be something like 0.01 tp 0.10 (one tenth of a volt). If you get absolute zero then check the 5 volt reference circuit. vref is dark green/yellow wire, ground is black/dark green wire, Good luck Robert Grove, ASE Certified World Class Mobile Mechanic
Question Answered: Check engine light came on this morning on the way to work.
August 01, 2014, 06:10 PM
If no other issue are apparent (it runs good) then wait a few days before taking it in. If the problem is minor and intermittent the light may go out, meaning the engine computer has run and passed its emissions "monitors". There are many reasons the check engine light can be turned on, and the only way to know is to have someone scan it for codes and the code itself won't tell you what is wrong. Don't ignore the light but don't freakout either. If it stays on then take it in and get it checked. Robert Grove, ASE Certified World Class Mobile Mechanic
Question Answered: Does the oil plug need to be replaced each time I have the oil changed?
August 01, 2014, 05:58 PM
No it does not need to be changed each time but there is usually a seal or flat gasket on the plug that should be changed. First of all verify the leak is from the plug by wiping the drain plug and the area around it with a rag or paper towel and look for oil seeping from the plug. If the plug is leaking, check its tightness, and if it is snug the leak is caused by a bad or missing seal and/or worn or damaged threads. Over time it is possible - due to repeated removal and installation of the plug that the threads wear out. Sometimes they can be repaired, sometimes the oil pan will need to be replaced. Good Luck! Robert Grove, ASE Certified World Class Mobile Mechanic
Question Answered: p1491 code
April 12, 2014, 10:57 AM
chuckh, If the fans are not coming it could be as simple as a bad fuse. the fans go bad also. The relay rarely fails but they do sometimes. In the fuse box, look for a 40amp fuse (fuse #4) replace it if it is bad, if it blows again then one of the fans is shorted or there is a short in the wiring. A simple way to check the relay is to swap it with a different relay in the fuse box (of the same type) Hope this helps... Robert Grove
Question Answered: Engine was running fine, then it did not want to start later that day?
August 24, 2013, 06:20 PM
check fuse #12 which supplies power to the park/neutral safety relay if it is good then you could have a problem with the park/neutral relay (should be in the underhood fuse box), the neutral safety switch (on the transmission), the ignition switch, of any of the wiring or connections in between the ignition switch and the starter. Other than replacing parts - you can swap the relay with another relay in the fuse box for quick check, if it works replace the relay - you will need a wiring diagram, and understanding of how to test electrical circuits and a volt meter. Even though the lights come on in the dash, sometimes an ignition switch wears out the contacts to the starter circuit. Also, if the vehicles is equipped with a factory anti-theft system or after market alarm with a starter disable feature, both have additional components which can prevent the starter for engaging. Robert Grove 949-288-3506
Question Answered: O/D light flashing after transmission transfer case decoder motor was replaced.
July 06, 2013, 09:19 PM
The shop that did the swap should have the ability to diagnose also. The OD light flashing means there are codes. before the trans was replaced the shop should have pulled codes to evaluate it and clear codes after replacing the trans so they can compare original codes to current codes. Some electronically controlled transmission problems are related to things outside the trans, tough to even guess without knowing codes and having a scanner hooked up during a test drive to evaluate performance, shift points, pressures and other important data that is required to diagnose it and only available with scanner that had datastream capability. If the shop that did the swap can't diagnose it find a shop that can. Good luck! Robert Grove, Wego2u Mobile Mechanic Orange County
Question Answered: smog failed due to obd communication failure.
July 03, 2013, 09:57 AM
A communication failure can be caused by a number of different problems, the most common are wiring and a bad PCM - yes it is possible for the PCM to fail to communicate and yet work perfectly for everything else. The least expensive and easiest thing you can do is check for communication with a Generic OBD code reader. If it communicates ok and you get "no codes" then take it back for the smog check and let them know - ask them to do a "code and monitor status check" prior to running the test. CAUTION! do NOT clear codes, reset it, or disconnect the battery! if you do you will have to drive it long enough to run the OBD Monitors prior to the smog test. If your tool does not communicate, look under the dash at the DLC and check for broken or disconnected wires, beyond that without the proper tools, information and training it may be beyond what you can do yourself and more expensive than having a professional do it. I have seen a few times where the system would not communicate and I had to exit and initiate communications again or cycle the key off, then back on. but If you get no communication after several attempts then it's better to take it in. Your car's engine computer (PCM/ECM) communicates with the Smog test Machine through the data link (DLC) connector using the Global OBDII protocol (computer language). The PCM also has a factory protocol. Typically we (professional technicians) would try to communicate with the PCM on the factory protocol, then use a labscope to verify if there is communication at the DLC, if not next we go to the PCM and test the circuit directly at the pcm. If it works at the PCM but not at the DLC then it's a wire, but it is also possible for the PCM to fail to communicate and still work fine. Good luck! Robert Grove, ASE World Class Technician Automotive Hall of Fame 1996
Question Answered: Why do I have a puddle building under my water pump but my guages all read norma
April 01, 2013, 09:11 PM
If the puddle under the water pump is coolant the gauges will read normal until the coolant level gets low enough to cause overheating or a low coolant indicator (not all vehicles have this) to come on. I agree with the previous answer, pressure test it, make sure to look at any hoses near the pump. If you are not sure where the coolant is coming from have it check by a shop. Robert Grove Mobile Mechanic Orange county,
Question Answered: Power windows not working.
April 01, 2013, 09:02 PM
There is only one fuse box - under the hood, and according to my diagrams all windows power up from a single 10amp fuse (fuse #25). I suggest having someone hold down a window switch while you wiggle the fuse and if that doesn't work change it, even if it looks good. Sometimes the female connection inside the fuse box looses and causes problems, also a fuse can look good but have a hairline break that makes it look good or is on the edge or the filament where it cannot be seen. you could also have a problem with the power or ground wire to the main switch or the switch itself. Unless want to pay a pro to troubleshoot you'll need to have a wiring diagram and know to to test voltage drop at the main switch ... or take a chance and spend the money on a drivers front switch, if it doesn't work pay a pro. your call, Robert Grove for mobile mechanic in orange county
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