Question Asked: After hundreds of bucks in repairs and hundreds more in parts, yet more problems
March 15, 2012, 11:51 PM
Sorry if this is a data overload, but I want to be thorough.
As you can see in my previous questions, I've had a lot of problems with my pickup. Most of which I thought I've taken care of. I've had two mechanics work on my truck. The first turned out to be a shade tree mechanic, that I found out had no shop, and did all the work he did on his duplex's driveway. He replaced the flexplate and transmission mount, and he disconnected my steering column to install the driver side exhaust manifold because he broke the bolts on the flange and had no torch. He had me pay extra on labor for that. On top of this, he replaced my rear transmission mount, and left my interior trashed (along with my headlights shorted out).
Since then, I've gotten the headlights to go. Had to replace my positive wire from the starter to my battery because this guy left it next to my exhaust manifold (so it shorted out in the middle of an intersection).
When I start the truck, you can hear a low metallic flutter, then it stops as the truck idles and drives. I checked underneath and the flexplate seems to have a slight "wobble". I was told that torquing the flexplate it tricky and should be done by a professional. So far, no problems have arisen yet.
Next, took it to another mechanic to have a used transfer case put in, because my old went to crap. It would grind and grind. The newly installed transfer case is in the 2WD position, but it seems like once I go over 50 mph, the truck would shimmy. I thought it might be the tires, so I took it easy.
Next, I had the same mechanic (who replaced) the T case, replace both of my front motor mounts. I was always apprehensive about driving on the highway, so I took it out for a spin onto the highway. As soon as I got up to speed, here's what happens next.
Front end up vibration gets greater and greater, GPS reads 65 (my speedometer is saying 80, but the cable has been off since I've owned the truck). I figure if the tires were out balance, I'd be having a hard time steering. It wasn't hard at all. Then as the vibration got to a certain point, I hear on the passenger side.... PING! A clatter noise, something metallic bumping under my truck. I pull over to the shoulder, and was able to walk back to the point of when I heard that noise. I saw nothing.
I went of the nearest exit and pulled into a gas station to check under the hood and I didn't see anything wrong. Crawled under and I noticed that a few drops of tranny fluid were dripping on the pavement right away, then stopped after about 4 drips. I checked the bell housing and starter bolts I replaced, that once had fallen out. They were all there.
Checked the tie rods, shocks, and ball joints. All seem fine.
Then I noticed something odd. My new CV axle on the passenger side had a problem. The upper boot was completely torn off. I bought it brand new in December and had it installed by Commercial Tire. CT said it was a manufacturer issue and nothing I did or all the mechanics who had worked on it before. In other words, just bad luck.
I am curious though. Would that torn boot cause a bad vibration at highway speeds? I forgot to ask the CT mechanic that.
Is it also possible that the used T case I had put in, is stuck in 4Hi or Lo? It seems to shift normal, while in neutral. Ever since the first mechanic worked on my truck, the 4Lo LED is constantly on, and it didn't used to be. Hence my curiosity.
Thanks in advance as always.
Question Asked: Headlights don't turn on.
February 01, 2012, 05:44 PM
I can't seem to find a short, the fuse is fine, both headlights are fairly new, the switch seems to have power and works, the dash lights work fine, dome light works good, tail lights/signals/brake lights all work.
The guy who worked on my truck said they were working this morning and the night before. He is frustrated as to why they stopped working.
Underneath the steering wheel, where the fuse box is, I noticed a hokey setup to allow the brake light to turn off when not in use. Could it be possible there is something similar for the headlights?
Question Asked: Odd chattering noise, when I start the truck up cold. Goes away when I drive it.
December 11, 2011, 06:11 PM
To give a terse history, I bought mine for 400 bucks, from a 17 year old farm boy who drove this thing into the dirt. For some reason or another, earlier this year, I took care of one problem, where it sounded like a rod knocking. Turned out that when the kid worked on the transmission, he didn't torque the bolts at all. So I took care of that best I could and got the bell housing bolts in tight and it no longer makes that noise.
To add, my starter bolt for some reason is going loose, and it so cramped to get to it, cleaning it to have loctite work to keep it in has been impossible for me. So every few days to a couple weeks, I tighten it up. Funny thing is, my 14mm socket keeps getting stuck on it. Is it a 9/16th bolt? Is that why the metric socket is getting stuck?
Since then, I've been able to fix most everything, but since I am only self-taught, I can't for the life of me figure this new problem out.
Just awhile ago, when you start the truck up cold, it makes this rotating chatter noise. While in park, or driving at slow speeds, it chatters away. While driving, it goes away, although sometimes you hear a low squeal and grinding noise for a second, then it goes away.
Last weekend I noticed my U joint was a touch loose. Not sure what the tolerance is, but I've let that go since then (I'm broke now), but I checked it as I was replacing my CV axle and bushings on my brakes.
I checked everywhere with my stethoscope, and the engine is running like a watch (well I need to fix the timing a bit), the transmission shifts fine, but one thing I did notice was this.
Turn the wheel to the left, in idle, in park, no problem. Turn the wheel to the right, in idle, in park, and the chatter goes faster.
From my experience, I am only coming up with 3 things. Bad U joint, bad bearing (which bearing I am not sure) or the power steering (but the reservoir is full and doesn't leak). I just know that while in drive, sometimes turning right is a chore. You have to sometimes man handle the steering wheel at low speeds to turn right. Turning left is fine.
If you can help me through this, you will be my personal hero(s).