2006 Ford Fusion Problems
RepairPal has identified the most common problems with the 2006 Ford Fusion based on complaints from actual vehicle owners. We'll tell you what the problem is and what it'll take to fix it.
The lug nuts on the Ford Fusion are known to swell to greater than their original size. When these lug nuts swell, the lug nut wrench will no longer fit, so they must be drilled or extracted.
The lug nuts swell when they have been tightened too tight. To prevent this condition, only tighten the lug nuts with a torque wrench. If changing a flat on the road, the lugs should be loosened and tightened to specification at the earliest opportunity.
The automatic transmission may develop shifting concerns. On lower mileage vehicles, upgrading the software in the powertrain control module (PCM) and the transmission control module (TCM) may correct the problem. As the mileage increases, internal transmission damage can occur. Repairs could involve replacement of the valve body or a complete transmission rebuild. Whenever major transmission repairs are made, it is important to be sure the PCM and the TCM have the latest software updates to help prevent these issues from reoccurring.
Squeaks and creaks heard while driving over bumps and turning can be caused be a couple common sources and should be carefully diagnosed. Possible weld issues on the lower control arms can cause the noise concerns and require repair kits for the lower control arms from Ford. A jounce bumper (bump stop) rubbing against dry strut plate can cause an abrasion noise from the strut area. In this case the strut assembly should be disassembled to lubricate the jounce bumper and then reinstalled.
From 2006-2012, the Ford Fusion was built with a six-speed automatic transmission built by a third-party manufacturer, as is the case with most transmissions.
For this specific automatic transmission, there is a common complaint regarding the harshness of shifts, as well as slight slippage when the transmission is hot.
In most cases, these issues arise from faulty software, which does not account for all variables as the transmission warms to normal operating temperature. In other cases, the valve body or shift solenoids are found to be faulty.
Software updates and software patches have been developed for these transmissions, and that is normally sufficient to correct drivability issues. If resetting the transmission controller and updating the transmission proves insufficient to correct concerns, the transmission will likely require rebuild or replacement before performance is returned to normal.
These transmissions were built and sold as ‘sealed for life’, but many have found that the automatic transmission fluid is not reliable for the complete service life of the vehicle.
If the transmission oil leaks out of left side half shaft area, it may be from a worn axle shaft seal. The seal can be damaged by a poor surface finish on the axle shaft. The axle shaft and seal should be replaced to correct the problem.
Many customers state that whule driving their vehicle, the engine will hesitate, stumble, or lose power. In more severe cases, the EGR valve can be physically damaged. In all cases, the check engine light will be illuminated, and diagnostic trouble codes will be stored in the PCM.
Diagnosis of the issue has concluded the differential pressure feedback EGR sensor (DPFE) is at fault many times, and incorrectly measures exhaust gas re-circulation (EGR) pressure.
Correction of the issue requires a diagnostic scan, identification of the faulty sensor, and, ultimately, the sensor and EGR valve may require replacement. In some models, the DPFE sensor is integrated into the EGR valve, and must be replaced together.
The Check Engine Light may come on due to failure of the Variable Camshaft Timing (VCT) solenoid. The VCT solenoid will need to be replaced to correct this concern.
If the key will not come out of ignition, this may be related to problems with the shifter knob sticking and / or binding of the shifter bezel. Replace the shifter knob and / or shifter bezel as needed.
The electric trunk latch solenoid can get stuck in the open position making it so the trunk will not latch closed. The diagnosing technician should verify correct electrical connection at the solenoid and check for correct cable routing. The trunk latch most commonly will need to be replaced.