2010 Mercedes-Benz ML350 Problems
RepairPal has identified the most common problems with the 2010 Mercedes-Benz ML350 as reported by actual vehicle owners. We'll tell you what the problem is and what it'll take to fix it.Refine by vehicle
The brake light warning message for a burned out bulb may be displayed. Our technicians tell us the tail lamp housing may melt and distort causing a poor connection at the bulb. The lamp housing should be replaced to correct this condition.
The camshaft adjuster solenoid (which is related to the variable valve timing system) may fail or timing chain/balance shaft components may wear, resulting in illumination of the Check Engine Light and various drivability issues. Mercedes-Benz has released a service bulletin outlining specific repair instructions depending on fault codes stored.
The engine may develop a stalling and/or no start condition due to a failed crankshaft position sensor.
Vehicles equipped with a 7-speed automatic transmission may develop a rough shifting condition, most commonly going up from first to second gear and going down from third to second or second to first gear. Our technicians tell us this is due to an internal component failure. Mercedes has released updated parts; the transmission will need to be removed and disassembled to complete the necessary repairs.
It is not uncommon for the power steering rack to develop a fluid leak requiring replacement of the rack assembly. Loss of power steering fluid may also cause an abnormal noise and damage to the power steering pump.
A problem with the ball joints can cause a creaking noise. There is an updated part to remedy this problem.
Electrical switches in the door latches can fail, causing the door locks to rapidly actuate up and down multiple times when the locks are activated by either the keyless remote or door lock switch. The affected door latch should be replaced to correct this concern.
On vehicles with airmatic suspension, the airmatic pump relay can stick, causing a dead battery, because the pump continues to operate when it should be shut off. Eventually, the pump will fail; the pump, fuse, and relay will need replacement. After parking and exiting the vehicle, the airmatic pump should only run for a few seconds before turning off. It should not come back on until the driver's door is opened.
The tailgate latch may stick causing a drain on the battery while the vehicle is parked.
High mileage or older vehicles commonly develop leaks from the differential seals and/or cover. Our technicians recommend a complete reseal of the differential unit whenever these leaks are repaired.
After a heavy rain storm, the drains for the heating, ventilation and AC (HVAC) system intake can be plugged with leaves and other debris, causing a dead battery. Water fills the intake cavity and overflows into the vehicle, directly onto the blower motor and its regulator. This causes the regulator to short out and the blower motor will continue to run, despite the key being off and removed from the vehicle. Usually the carpet at the right front passenger floor will be wet too. If the carpet is saturated, the passenger seat may need to be removed to dry out the battery storage area before water or moisture reaches the relay and fuse holders. To prevent this, do not let leaves and twigs accumulate at base of windshield. If there are leaves or debris below the wiper blades, clean the area.
Bolts that connect the automatic tailgate actuator lever to the tailgate can break. The broken bolts need to be drilled out and the holes re-threaded before a new bolt can be installed. If you hear any unusual noises when raising or lowering the power tailgate, have the mounting bolts inspected to make sure they are tight so the problem can be repaired before the bolts break.