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Q: when spliceing a wireing harness together should you conect the extra wires? on 2000 Dodge Caravan

when i spliced my wireing harness together with the one i got from the junk yard there were som extra wires that did not match up so i conected them together or should i just have left them taped everything works right except the passenger turn signal wont blink in front does in back fast ant the blower switch only works on high for ac/heat
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TURN LAMP PROBLEM: pull the lamp out and check for proper power and ground if all is there replace bulb. if no way to test replace bulb first. if no power you will need to verify the color codes are right between the two vans chances are they are correct but verify.

BLOWER PROBLEM: how much of the harness did you have to replace and did it go to the blower resistor. If it does not go to the resister (which is on the passenger side just to the inside of the strut tower on the firewall)replace the resistor assembly. could have been damaged by vibration from tire blowing.

HARNESS QUESTION: keep all wires seperated from each other use shrink tubing (you can use a lighter to seal it) instead of electrical tape.....water intrusion causes corrosion and that will kill an electrical system. hope this helps Bret
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sounds like you got a similar hareness but not the exact same. the other van may have had some other options. leave them taped together after you tape each one seperately
Never splice. You may end up with many more problems. If the harness came out of an exact model and year, and trim level, the harness should be an exact fit. You should not have "Extra wires." Why did you decide to splice a harness?
because tire blew out and spair tire was flat so drove home about a mile slow but it tore up the wireing harness on the passenger side.
Which harness did you replace? What are the circuit map coordinates of the work you performed? Did you use crimp connectors or did you solder everything? Cover the soldered ends, then either isolate them with heat shrinkable tubing, or liquid tape, bundle them with friction tape, and finally cover the harness with split, corrogated plastic shielding, and secure the entire harness to the chassis.

Did the turn signals funtion correctly before the incident? Using a helper to watch the inoperative lamps, briefly apply power to each of the extra wires to visually determine which wire may power the inoperative lamps. Then go to front inoperative lamp to identify the colora codes that supply power to the front on that side.Splice those together and then start and run the vehicle for the purpose of assurrinng that everythin is operating normally.
thanks i will try that i just soderd the wires and taped them because i dont have it right yet but i will do what you say when i get it right you have been a lot of help god bless! oh and yes every thing worked right but now i also have the head lights real bright and the get a little brighter when i use high beam switch?
Clarify your statement. The headlamps are wired to the battery through the igntion switch to headlamp switch to dimmer switch to headlamps. You are really running on battery voltage, so the headlamps cannot be brighter unless ther alternator is overcharging. Battery volatage should be 12.4-12.8 volts. Some cab drivers run external voltage regulator alternator to force the alternator to run in full field mode, which can be as high as 18 volts. That voltage will burn out everything in the car. Verify battery voltage and alternator output. It should not exceed 14.8 volts. I'm concerned about the brighter headlamp output. I'm a combat vet. Treat today special. Remember those who died in combat and in combat related operations. It is their day.
Thank you for your reply i checked the head lights by looking at them and having my girlfriend work the hi low beams and they do seem ok but am am going to check her car out to night and see if there is a difference and god bless all the vets who have served our country with out you all we would not be free!! ps i found another problem sorry to bother you but if i have the blower moter on with ac and turn lights on the ac and circulator lights go off this started when i put a new blower resistor in because it would only work on high befor?? god bless!!
What causes a blower resister to fail is the brushes in the motor are worn and barely expressing pressure on the armature. This causes very high resistence in the entire control circuit, overheats the blower resistor, it's connectors and connctor block to the point that the connector deforms and causes another high resistance point. Check the blower resistor connector block for deformation to verify it has a good square shape and has no bumps. Bumps are overheating points that have partialy liquified the connector block. BLower resistor pigtails are available at most parts store. If you can reach the blower easily, spin it by hand and listen and hear if it feels smooth, if it has any roughness at all replace the blower motor. I always replace both together, and the pigtail if the connector block is deformed to any degree.
the only help i can give you is first get a haynes manual for that car in the back will have all the wiring diagrams but it might be just a bulb in that turn signal
i switched the bulb with the new one and it still is not blinking in the front but the only other weird thing is if the blower motor is on the passenger blinker blinks normal in the rear still no blinking in th passenger front??
Re-check your wiring. The front lamp wiring runs directly to the front lamps with a branch to the rears. Give me year, trim level, and model, lamp or digital instrumentation. I'll look it up and direct you. Do your the hazard lamps work?
I don't know what trim level means but its a basic 2000 Dodge caravan electric windows locks and mears it has a 3.0 liter engine and yes the hazard lights work fine thanks for your help God bless.
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