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1992 Volvo 740 Questions

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Can't remove the speed sensor. Sway arm is in the way
details on how to change the steering rack
It is a 1992 Volvo wagon my second 740, body is choice, engine clean but I got
Issues. Six weeks ago car died on hwy, Volvo dealer diagnosed no spark past distributor, so I got it towed home and did the following.
Cleaned intake, throttle body, got new wires new plugs, new distributor cap and rotor, checked all vacuum hoses replaced vacuum boost hose to intake it had a tear. Replaced all rubber connectors to intake thinking vacuum leak. Replaced timing belt it had a slight tear.
Crank shift gear lost its nub so replaced that. Cleaned IAC.
Resurfaced all grounds.
Car now starts on second try, idles in garage right at 750, in gear will bog down, and stall unless warmed up for 15 minutes or its a warm day. If not driving and parked for longer that 3 hours it will do the same thing as a pure first cold start of the day.
Everything I have done solved the starting and hesitation but not stalling. Only code is out of socket 2, 2-3-3 IAC closed, no other codes. Diagnostic in mode 3 IAC functions, injectors click, radio suppression relay clicks. No codes out of socket 6.
Exhaust is two years old complete Starla exhaust kit, oh also installed new thermostat and replaced oil cap casket.
On my previous 740 sedan, it was a fuel pump, ect and rpm sensor. On this car distrib, rotor and wires were only 2.5 yrs old before dying, regular oil changes fluid checks so was surprised the car died on the hwy. Previous owner installed new IAC and head gasket, all worked great until now.
Spare IAC, and coil did not change situation now wondering if both IAC are bad?...
Rpm sensor on wagon not checked yet, doing that later today.
I think it is air as in not enough or still have a vacuum leak, fuel not really feeling that cause I can rev the car in the garage and once warm it can go no question just the first start of the day
Once my 1992 Volvo 740 wagon warms up after for example a drive to a near by store. I turn it off then try and restart it up and at it will do is make a bunch of cranking noises. It wants to start but it wont. After hours have gone by it will start again and the same issue happens over and over.
I have just recently replaced the fuel injectors, cam crank shaft sensor, spark plugs, spark plug wires, and the distrubitor cap and the car is still having the same exact starting issues.
I can hear the fuel pump rotating before I turn the car over so I know it's at least not the fuel pump under the driver seat. I know it has 2 fuel pumps so I am not sure if the second pump is out?
Today I had the fuel pump relay replaced and so far the car is starting up great without any issues.
Can engine run without the mass air sensor
inner tie rod end is bent boot is torn
need to replace
Cranks but wont start, added gas, no gas smell, no sound of fuel pump with key on
Where is plug located
My steering wheel shakes a speed lower than 45 and we I put on brakes. I have 170000 miles. What could be causing this problem
My car keeps dieing whether it is warm or cold. i can feel it losing the power and then it dies. It was only happening when i was going 35 to 40 but now it did it on the freeway and i was going 60. I felt it lose power while doing 60 and i shifted back and forth to d2 and for some reason it kept on going. it got down to a speed of 20 mph. I'm thinking back and it seems like i might have been lower on fuel. it died on me three times yesterday and i filled up last night and didn't have any problem traveling to work. it has been an intermittent problem though and doesn't do it all of the time
1992 Volvo 740 will not start. Regina engine.
new coil, coil wire, plugs, plug wires.
Will start with ether.
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