Utah Imports

(801) 657-3696
25 Verified Reviews

8:30am to 6:00pm


33 E Herbert Ave
Salt Lake City, UT 84111 USA


  • Jeff Keller, Owner
  • Established 1986
  • 5 Auto Repair Mechanics on Staff
  • 1 ASE Certified Auto Technician
  • 80 Years of Car Repair Experience

Utah Imports Reviews


25 Verified Reviews
5 stars
4 stars
3 stars
2 stars
1 star
by - Verified Customer March 11, 2015

They are honest, they don't do unnecessary work and they communicate very well.

by - Verified Customer March 11, 2015

They're professional, courteous, affordable, efficient, everything you would ever want. They're just the best.They're a ten.

by - Verified Customer March 10, 2015

They are honest, they do the work at the price they quote. They have quick turnarounds, they get the work done quickly.

by March 10, 2015

They are always professional. Previously I had a bad experience with a car dealership. I have a diesel car and they put in oil for a regular car, not a diesel. I took my car to Utah Imports they explained why my car stopped. Ever since then I feel comfortable taking my car to them. They are experienced and knowledgeable of my car.

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by - Verified Customer March 05, 2015

I like the reliability of their work and timeliness. They stand behind their work and address any issues if they come up.

by - Verified Customer March 04, 2015

They communicate well, they understand what needs to be done to your vehicle. If I had a new car that was under warranty I would still go to the dealership, but if I had a car that wasn't under warranty I would go to these guys.

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by - Verified Customer March 04, 2015

They are a quality company that does quality work.

by - Verified Customer March 02, 2015

Very reasonable pricing, very knowledgeable in what they do and what they recommend. They are easy to work with. They are pleasant human beings and the customer service is above average.

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by - Verified Customer March 02, 2015

I have had good service every time I have been there, they are very honest people.

by - Verified Customer March 01, 2015

They are the only shop in the area that does quality work. After going to a few shops that I have had bad service with, I found these guys and have been going there since.

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by - Verified Customer February 26, 2015

They were amazing, they did all of the work I wanted.

by February 26, 2015

I am very happy with what they have done, they did the work they said they were going to and they charged fair prices.

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by - Verified Customer February 24, 2015

They always call me to let me know how much it will cost and I really trust them.

by - Verified Customer February 24, 2015

I always had very good service. They're timely and informative.

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by February 19, 2015

They have always done a good job, and I like the people that work there. They are very reputable, I have never heard anything bad about them.

by February 19, 2015

I have been mostly happy with them, they seem to be reliable and as far as I can tell they do good work.

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by February 17, 2015

They did their job correctly, they did all of the work I wanted without any problems.

by - Verified Customer February 17, 2015

Their prices are fair, thay are competent and they don't do any unnecessary work.

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by - Verified Customer February 15, 2015

I trust them because they make me feel comfortable every time I visit their shop.

by - Verified Customer February 11, 2015

They do a good job at fair prices, but they forgot to reset the trouble code after they were finished with the work so now I have to go back in so they can reset it for me.

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by - Verified Customer February 09, 2015

Experts service, they are fair and very reasonably priced.

by - Verified Customer February 09, 2015

They did the work quickly, they were straightforward. They told me exactly what was wrong, they did the task quickly and they were very honest about the work they had to do.

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by - Verified Customer February 05, 2015

I think they do great work, and I think they are the only shop I can trust to work on an old Volkswagen van.

by - Verified Customer February 02, 2015

I had a bad experience both times I have been there, I went in with an issue with my car. They opened the sunroof and they broke it so it wouldn't close. They tried to charge me to fix my sunroof even though it wasn't broke when I went in. I also went in for an oil change, my car takes synthetic oil which is expensive as it is and they wrote down that I needed to come back in after 3000 mile for another oil change.

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by - Verified Customer February 01, 2015

They do great work, they are very reputable and you get a good value for the money.

RepairPal Scorecard


The South State Street location of Utah Imports has been serving the local community since 1986. This RepairPal Certified shop strives to stay on top of the latest technologies and to be a leader in the local community by providing the highest level of automotive repair coupled with the best customer service. Our review of this shop revealed they are achieving this goal. Recent customers describe this team as “honest”, “reliable”, “professional”, "courteous", and “amazing”. This location features a team of automotive professionals lead by an ASE Master Technician and they are focused on repairing select import makes. They are well equipped to handle repairs ranging from tires and wheel alignment, to minor and major mechanical repairs, to check engine light and computer system diagnoses and repair, as well as your scheduled maintenance needs. Repairs are covered by a 12-month / 12,000-mile warranty for your peace of mind. Local shuttle service, rental vehicles, early bird drop off, and a waiting area with wireless Internet are all available for your convenience.



  • AC/Heating
  • Alignment
  • Check Engine Light
  • Classic Car Repair/Restoration
  • Diagnosis
  • Muffler & Exhaust
  • Oil Change & Lube
  • Scheduled Maintenance
  • Service & Repair
  • Timing Belts
  • Tire Sales/Repair
  • Transmission Repair
+ More


  • Early Bird Dropoff
  • Free Estimates
  • Free Multi-Point Safety Inspection
  • Heated Waiting Room
  • Parts/Accessories
  • Rental Car
  • Service Guarantee
  • Shuttle
  • Warranty Accepted
  • Wireless Internet
+ More


  • Bosch Service Network


Utah Imports has been providing quality independent auto repair and service in the Salt Lake Valley since 1959. As a certified Bosch Service Center, Utah Imports maintains the highest standards for automotive parts and service. We are very active in our local community and are proud to have been named "Best of the Beehive" by Salt Lake Magazine.


  • Audi
  • Subaru
  • Volkswagen
Questions Answered by Utah Imports
Your Forrester Needs the codes read with a full function scan tool. When the check engine light is on the cruise light will flash. You most likely have a misfire in one or more of the cylinders causing the rough running. The most common cause of misfires is carbon tracks where the plug wire connects to the spark plug. Coil packs can fail and valves can be too tight if the car has over 100k mi. and has never been adjusted. Turbo engines have coil on plug arrangement and the individual coils can fail. Fuel injectors are also a possibility. Moving components and determining if the misfire follows the component or stays at the original cylinder helps to pinpoint the cause of the misfire.
Is there a chip in a 2003 Audi didn't ...
The Immobilizer is activated because the Key is not recognized and there should be a flashing light on the dash. It depends on what part you replaced. If you only changed the electrical portion of the switch then the Immobilizer will not be activated and the enigine should run. If you changed the lock cylinder and key then that is the cause and will activate the Immobilizer. If you are using the same key then you need to check the antenna ring around the lock cylinder for damage. Each key has a transponder in it and that transponder is programmed to the car. It is possible that the car just does not recognize that key so try another key for that car if you have one. If the car runs with the other key then you need to have the bad key reprogrammed at the Dealer. If you did change the lock cylinder and are trying to use the key that fits that lock then you need to hold the old key next to the antenna ring so it will recognize that key and then the engine should stay running.
I would need more info about the problem like what the pressures are and if there are codes in the climate module. If the compressor is bad you need to pull and inspect the orifice tube for metal debris. If there is debris in the screen you will need to replace the condenser and thoroughly flush the system or compressor failure will occur.
Wheels vibrate when driving at a high rate...
If the steering is not shaking the imbalance must be in the rear. You need to have the wheels properly balanced as well as make sure all the mounting surfaces are clean and smooth. This means no corrosion build up on the hub face,rotor, and rim mount area. This can cause glazing on part of the rotor resulting in squeaking. Many shop neglect to properly clean these surfaces during brake replacement. Also make sure rims are hub centric or have spacer rings installed if you have aftermarket rims. The lug bolts need to be torqued correctly and have the correct taper or the wheels can come loose.
I just had my Audi a4 2003 trans replaced....
Check fuses at left end of dashboard. Check for communication with the comfort and roof modules with a full function scanner. Common problem is water getting under the carpet and corroding the comfort module and/or wiring. Remove door sill trim and lift carpet to access plastic box just in front of drivers seat. Open box pull comfort module and disconnect harness to inspect for corrosion. Follow harness forward looking for corrosion. There are multiple wire solder joints that can corrode causing loss of power to the comfort module that controls the windows, alarm, interior light, and other convenience items.
The camshaft solenoid was replaced to fix ...
Depending on mileage and if you hear a rattling noise on cold starts you may not have a timing chain issue. I would recommend logging the cam sensor data to determine if the timing is off. I had a similar situation caused by a intermittent connection at the ECM cause cam codes and limp mode on acceleration. Timing chains are very expensive so I recommend spending time confirming it with proper diagnostics. The trick is finding someone with the knowledge and experience to do it.
There is more to replacing a battery in later model cars then just bolting in the battery. The battery may need to be registered so the charging system will know how charge the new battery. There will be low voltage codes in many modules and some systems will need to be adapted. Without a professional scan tool you could try disconnecting the battery terminals and touching the clamps together for 10 minutes. Reconnect the battery and turn on the key but do not start of touch the gas pedal. You should hear some humming and clicking from the engine bay. Once it stops clicking turn off the key and then try starting the car. This will clear and reset so of the codes and adaptations. You will need to readapt the power windows.
The battery is new, the electronics work, ...
If the clicking sound is coming from the starter motor then you are not getting sufficient voltage to the starter. You will need to check for voltage drop between the battery and starter. Check cables and clamps for corrosion and ground cables between engine and chassis. If you don't find a voltage drop then the starter may be bad.
Instances where the transmission has to ch...
You will need to have a system scan done to determine what codes are being generated to cause the transmission to enter limp home mode. Continuing to drive in limp mode will cause stress on the gear that is engaged , generally 3rd or 4th gear depending on which transmission you have. I had an A6 come in with a similar situation. The trans went into limp when climbing hills and had a code for a camshaft position sensor. The Audi dealership told him that he needed $8000 worth of work to correct the issue. After hours of diagnosis I found a poor connection at the engine computer. Problem solved and over $7000 saved. The computers are so interconnected that you need the full picture to determine the source of the problem.
So as soon as i hooked up the last jumper ...
The first thing to do is check all of the fuses. Start with the fuse block at the left side of the dashboard. If you don't find a blown fuse there you will need to access the electrical box next to the brake master cylinder. Inside you will find the main power relay and fuses. If you find and replace a blown fuse and the car runs but the stereo does not work you will need to remove the stereo to replace the fuse in the back of the stereo. This fuse commonly blows if jumper cables are installed incorrectly.

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