1992 Toyota Previa Questions

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I took the car to a mechanic running and left it for two weaks because they were going to weld a body part. Now it still but not crank .there is not fire going to the spark plug. I changed the coil. I tested the igniter it get me 11 volts

We have added new coolant also.

The van only has 122,000 miles and is in mint shape, literally. Just so you know that I know, the next comment is not referring to the hazard lights. my van won't start, the small marker lights at all four corners of the vans lighting system is flashing along with a relay clicking sound in the cab that matches each pulse of the lights. The vans starter motor will not turn over, battery appears OK, lights and radio work, not even a clicking sound when the ignition switch is turned on. When the hazard lights are turned on, the clicking sound is added to the relay sound and the main running lights are engaged. So I end up with marker and mains pulsing at different intervals and no starting van.

It only started to do this recently. I changed the starter a few years ago when it did it once then but in the last 2 weeks it's done it 3 or 4 times. Once again, if I try to start it 10 to 15 minutes or so after I turn it off and after a long drive it won't start. But if I wait an hour or more, it will start. An authorized Toyota service dept. can't seem to figure out what's wrong with it.

Auto repair company says I need to replace mounts with shocks. Are they the same as the front strut mounts because that is all I can find online?

I've had a coolant leak issue for the past year. First they replaced the cap. Then they replaced the heater control valve. Recently, the temps dropped below freezing and I noticed a puddle of coolant under front mid/passenger side of my car.This is where the puddles always appear. I checked the expansion tank and it was full. Took my 1992 Previa in and they did pressure tests and couldn't find any leaks.The radiator was full. They checked the water pump and thermostat and all showed no indication of leaks. They sent me on my way and it didn't leak for 3 nights. The next day the temp dropped again and there was a large puddle under my car again. I checked the expansion tank and it was empty this time. I filled it and took it back in. The radiator was low but again they could not find or reproduce the leak. I had an oil change while I was there. They sent me on my way. The engine now knocks and shakes at stops and when reversing. It eventual stopped after about 10 miles. I went to work and the heater was running hot. I left work about 7 hours later and half the car ride home (about 15 minutes) was fine but then the heater started blowing cold air and the knocking returned. Checked my car this morning and sure enough the reservoir was empty again. I took the car to a different mechanic and they too could not find any leaks. Anyone have an idea of what could be causing this issue. I'm at my wits end.

The door will not open and I want to open it so I can put gas in the tank but I don't want to damage the door.

Back hatch wont open..electric locks wont release.drivers door wont unlock latch is broken only passengers door will open with a key

the transmission starts running good but onces it worms up it disengages. I turn off the vehicule wait for a moment and starts ok and shift to drive ok runs ok and disengages quickly again. When cooled runs ok but wormed up doesnt WHAT CAN IT BE!!!

92 previa front wiper motor turns but hear popping and wipers don't engage.

I just bought an manual trans AWD 92 Previa. When I'm waiting at a stoplight and I put it in neutral the car dies about a 3rd of the time. It doesn't feel like it's stalling, but as soon as I take my foot off the clutch it dies. I've been told this could be a symptom of the clutch going out. Its this true? I have the entire history of work done for the car since it was originally bought so I can go back and see if the clutch was ever replaced, but I wanted to know about when I should expect to replace it? Any thoughts?

My 1992 Toyota Previa intermittently makes a noticeable clunk when shifting from Park or Neutral into Drive or Reverse. Generally the problem is more regular and more accute in colder conditions. The U-joints are good. I think that it is related to a sensor and not the internal workings of the transmission, but I do not know which sensor, because the computer does not indicate a problem. Otherwise the transmission shifts smoothly in all gears.