1997 Toyota Camry Questions

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1997 Toyota Camry, the transmission is brand new. But when in reverse it makes a loud grinding noise in the front passenger side.
1997 Toyota Camry
Hello, I'd be very thankful and appreciative for your help.

My problem began with a simple 'sluggish' driver's window - that often would go halfway down - and then a tenth of an inch up each time - little by little - IF I let the circuit 'rest'.
In attempting to replace the component - driver side control switche(s) - I shorted something and no windows will move and each is in some varying position of 'down' or open.
I read that if I expose the two wires connected [red and green] to the motor in the door AND applied power - to either one - the window would move [up or down] depending on where I applied the power.

I exposed the wires in the passenger door - it was easy to identify the two that go to the motor [simply two wires - R and G - and a connector. I applied power to both alternately - and nothing happened. I know the motor is good and surely I had 12 volts applied.
Here is my first question: Maybe I don't understand how the motor is grounded and taking just t
Drivers side window won't go up - motor is good, fuse is good - I simple need to know which terminals to short that will raise the window. It is a standard harness [87 Camry] - one row of 8 and one row of 6 [empty places in center or would be 8]. I have images if that will help. Thanks very much for your help.
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I just don't know where the fuse box is
I have not found a box/button/switch of any kind on the dash, under the dash, by the brake pedal, or under the drivers seat. When I unhook the battery for repairs the horn flashes and maybe the lights but I'm to busy to notice as I try to get the key in to turn it off. There is a red light built into the dash that when on you can see in the dark. I have three keys that came with the car and use the Toyota's. I pulled two of the horn fuses but the horn still goes off. Just found there are two horns. The car rearms it self seemingly whenever it feels like it. The only thing that seems to work is to watch for the light coming on and turning it off by turning the key left 3 times then right 3 times . That turns the light/alarm off. Got a remote and it says to just pin 2 to 10 on the power mirror switch then program the remote when the locks cycle. It will be faster than a key if the alarm goes off. Other than that I'm going to check for stuck/shorted door and trunk switches. Anyone have ANY other ideas???.
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