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Q: The care will turn over but it will not start. Please Help!!! on 1995 Mitsubishi 3000GT SL

I was driving home from work and was going between 45 and 50 MPH, when I heard a slight pop. From there the engine seemed to have cut off, and all the dash lights popped on. I then slipped the car into neutral and tried to start it but it sounded like the starter was not engaging it just whirled. I then popped the hood looked and on the driver side of the engine I could see a pulley had melted through the dust cover below the timing belt. Once I got it pulled back to the house I pulled off the dust cover to find that the Timing belt tensioner bolt had worked its way out and popped off, allowing for the timing belt to slip off. Repositioned the crank and the cams to align with the marks on the block installed a new bolt for the tensioner and put the timing belt back on. Now when I turn the key to attempt to start it there is a clicking sound from the throttle body and the car just whirls. The starter is engaging as I watched the pulleys move as we attempted to start the car. It is like it is not getting any spark or fuel. Every so often it will pop in the exhaust. I unplugged the EFI fuse and the clicking stopped. I traced the clicking down to a piece that I do not know the name of just below and behind the intake hose on the throttle body. Please help this is my work car and my wife really needs her van for the kids while I am at work and I don't like leaving her without a way to go.
Thank you for your time.
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Well Tim, if you have the engine timing correct and the engine will not start now, i am afraid that your valves have contacted the pistons when the belt slipped off resulting in internal damage that will require engine dissassembly to repair. This is an "interference" engine. I really hope i am wroung but that sure is what it sounds like.
Good luck with it man!
How can I tell with out disassembling the engine? Is there a way to turn the cams or the crank and it throw out some tell, tell sign there was damage? to give me a clue as to if I am dealing with bent valves or not. Thank you for your time I do appreciate your help.
It is pretty much cut and dried, 'IF' you have the engine timing correct and now the engine will not start, there is no comperssion now due to the valves hitting the pistons. That is why it sounds like it "just whirls" when cranking the engine. Can check compression with a tester to confirm! Sorry, wish i had better news. Google interference engine for more details.
Thank you I appreciate the help I didn't want to buy a new crank sensor if I didn't need it. But what I don't get is why is the thing by the throttle body clicking? it never did that before.
It never had compression blowing by the valves before. Now it does, blowing by the bent intake valves back into the intake and throttle body. You are trying to make it be something else and i understand that. Remember it was running ok until the timing belt trouble!
No no not that the clicking goes away when I pull the EFI Fuse and I can still turn it over with out any clicking it almost sounds like a relay, it clicks with just the key on (no cranking) it did not do that before. Its like this I climb in the car turn the key into the on position the clicking starts, I get out of the car and put my hand behind the intake hose at the bottom where a plug is at you can feel it clicking I can crank it with or with out the EFI fuse in place. It clicks when I have the EFI Fuse installed. That part did not do that clicking before this It started that the first time I tried to start it after I put the Timing belt back on.
Check the compression, if it has no or low compression then you dont need to worry about anything else. That is enough!! If you are not equipped to do the testing, find someone that can.
Again good luck, hope it works out for you.
I agree with Push Rod, the head, valves, pistons and sometimes the wall of the cylinders, camshafts are damaged beyond re-use when the timing belt breaks. If you pull the valve cover off you may see damage. When you get the cover off, rotate your motor over by the crankshaft pulley so you can inspect the valve train. I'm sure you will see what's wrong. When you pull the fuse to the EFI, (Electronic Fuel Injection),the engine will not fire and make the noise you're hearing, good luck! Kool Tool.
The problem with the clicking is it never did it before. And The engine turns over with or with out the fuse. So why is it clicking? did it short out? I understand that the engine valves and pistons may be damaged I get that I just want to know if the throttle body Solenoid valve assembly is bad, if so I need to order it with the engine rebuild kit I have to order. Thank you guys for your time I have learned more in the past few hours than anyone here has been able to tell me.
Hey Tim, right now the solenoid click shouldn't be an issue for you. But before you order parts, the engine has to be dis-assembled to know exactly what parts will be required. Another less expensive option for you, is to look for a used low mileage motor. Check this site for an r us...they're in Tenn., another source is You pull and pay. Both theses sites have on line availability and prices. From experience you're probably not going to be able to repair your engine. Good Luck, kool tool.
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