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Q: Sputtering and dying when first idling in DRIVE on 2001 Mitsubishi Galant

Good morning. My 2001 Galant has decided to start misbehaving lately. When it first starts up and heads out, it works fine. Once I get to that first STOP sign or red light, the car sputters and runs rough. It will shut off unless I put the shifter into NEUTRAL or PARK during the sputtering. Once in NEUTRAL/PARK, the sputtering normally goes away. After that first round of sputters, the car seems to be fine until it has been off for an extended period of time-- maybe an hour or so. The same thing occurs with that first round of idles in DRIVE after being off for awhile.

SO... I have replaced two of the spark plug wires-- the far left and far right-- and found a minimal amount of oil on the spark plug wires when I removed them for replacement. I have not yet replaced the plugs-- last replacement was about 85,000 miles; I'm at about 160,000 now-- but plan on doing that today. I also added a fuel injector cleaner to a full tank of gas yesterday. Just had an oil change before this started. Drove it pretty hard after the oil change-- a few hundred miles through mountains over one weekend. Air filter looks clean. No CHECK ENGINE light has shown up yet. Thoughts? Thanks in advance for any assistance.
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If it rebounds exactly when put into P or N it probably isn't normal tune up items. Is the car idle steady all other times? It should be around 750rpms in N or P. I would lean more toward the possibility of the Idle control circuit. This sounds like a strange problem so I wouldn't replace anything without it testing bad first. First thought is that the car goes into a default mode in either P or N and that it is "reading" a sensor when in drive that is causing issues. Once you rule out a faulty IAC motor you can start to see what other sensors affect the system.
Thank you very much. I was able to locate the problem. Somewhere on one of my many, many trip as of late, the neck where the throttle body connects to the air intake manifold assembly had cracked. It finally broke ALL the way through the other day to the tune of possibly $1300 in repairs. Thanks for the help, but this one looks to be solved.
Sorry. Some how I had gotten moved to ANONYMOUS status. This issue is resolved per the above message.
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