2000 Chevrolet Blazer Reviews and Owner Comments

2000 Chevrolet Blazer owners review and rate their 2000 Chevrolet Blazer.

2000 Chevrolet Blazer (13 Reviews)
Body, Interior & Misc.
Drive Train
Electrical & Lights
Exhaust & Emissions
Heating & Air Conditioning
Suspension & Steering
Login to Review This Car
Bought a 2000 LT model, fully loaded, less the sunroof 4/12. First it needed a "vent valve," gas cap, and a gas filler neck to shut off the "Service Engine Soon" light. Then I replaced brakes and lower ball joints. Then, the "service engine soon" light comes on a day after I had the brakes and lower ball joints done. Was told it was "not replacing the gas cap properly." OK, so then a week later, I noticed that when you reverse and turn the steering wheel tightly on the process, it "drags" almost like you are in full 4 wheel drive mode. Was told by the mechanic that it sounds like a transmission problem and take it to Aamco to do the free estimate. Aamco told me that the gears in the front axle were "binding up" and with time (approximately 1 year or so), that this will drag on the Trans. and "fry" out the transmission. $1100.00 was the quote I got from Aamco to fix the "spider gears" in the differential, plus labor. This all happened within a 3 month period! Stay away from these Blazers! Their big 4.3 Liter V6 engines are good, but it totally ends there!
I own a 200 Chevy Blazer that now has 235,200+ miles. The body is in very good shape (no rust) even though it sits outside 100% of the time in Minnesota (also lots of salt on the roads).

The original tires and brakes out lasted both front hub assemblies (45,000 & 51,000 respectively and the transmission (92,000 and again at 137,000) even though I never abused it or towed anything. Luckily, I purchased lifetime warranted hub assemblies so it when they went bad the 2nd time, I only had to pay the labor to have them replaced ($90 each).

At the 1st transmission rebuild ($1,800), the builder said that EVERY component had a new part number specified so I replaced everything while it was torn apart even though only the "sun guard" was bad. The 2nd rebuild ($1,300) required replacing the "sun guard" again but this time they used a different part that they said was used in racing applications - no problems to this time even though I have towed a boat and small trailer several times.

The intake manifold gasket was finally replaced at 210,000 although in hide sight it should have been replaced 5 years ago at about 90,000 miles because that was when we first noticed that we didn't always have heat. We couldn't tell that the coolant was low, we believe because of a design flaw that allowed air bubbles to prevent coolant from circulating as it should (This might be a good time to bad mouth the factory fill of orange coolant that started to clog the cooling system.). The problem was caught even though a local Chev dealership ran a pressure check on the system when we first noticed the problem.

The gas pump was replaced at 120,000. Expect a $400+ bill for that.

The hinge pins on the front doors have been replaced 3 times each. The pins only cost about $9 each ($18 per door) but really require a air hammer to drive back into place because their isn't enough room to swing hammer hard enough to drive them into place. A steel rod or socket extension might work but you will still have to monkey with getting the spring back into place and that is a pain also. A body shop will probably charge about $80-$100 per door.

The lift gate washer also leaked multiple times, probably due to the fluid freezing because it wasn't used enough and it can get -40 degrees F (actual - not with wind chill) here. This again is poor design because any engineer from Detroit should realize that temperature do get well below freezing!

The design of the levers used to raise and lower the seat backs also was TERRRIBLE (maybe it was good design for Chev because they broke immediately after, rather than just before, the warranty expired). Most owners that I know also had their handles snap off (driver's side at 12,100 and passenger's at 13,000 and didn't replace them because there wasn't a good replacement.

To summarize, they don't easily rust but they have numerous (and expensive) problems.
I have owned my blazer since about 20k miles I have had to do regular maintenance, such as wheel hub, alternator, brakes, oil changes etc. However the SUV is a bull dog i have almost 250k miles and it just keeps running. One of the best vehicles I have ever owned. Easy to work on for a novice mechanic and comfortable to drive. Gas mileage sucks. But overall GM did a great job with this one!!!
2000 chevy s10 blazer 140000 miles runs ok as long as it is accelerating when i give it just enough gas to maintain my speed my rpm fall and rise with a miss 45 to 55 miles an hour replaced gas filter and air filter and air flow cencer please can anyone help
I have had my blazer since the first mile, it now has 200,000 miles on it. It has been a wonderful SUV. The gas gauge stopped working a few years back. I seem to replace the ball joints every few years, replaced fuel pump 75,000 miles under warranty. Hardly no rust interior looks great. I will have this vehicle until it no longer runs or has to much rust on it. I would purchase this vehicle again.
I have a 2000 Chevy Blazer and i have had to replace both of the back break calibers and now i have to replace the transmission. I love it because its a great suv, but it sucks on gas. The fuel gauge doesn't work so its like guessing in the dark. It has got to sit for a little while until i can find a good transmission.
Biggest problem for me is the sealed hub bearings, I've honestly gone through 7 of them since I've owned it (about 70,000 miles). These parts are extremely expensive compared to the old fashioned wheel bearings (about $300) each. No one knows why they keep failing. I keep wheels aligned, no off road, and tire size is within normal limits. Otherwise, just cheap plastic stuff breaking off, seat knobs, etc. Powerful motor, I like the Vortec, tows anything. Wheel base is to close, easy to "shimmy" on turns in not careful.
I just spent $3000 on ball joints,fuel injectors,water pump,and much more..great suv but the suspension sucks,and it sucks on gas!
great vehicle.. the only trouble has been the transmission. on the third tranny and it needs another. has 211000 miles on motor and does not use a drop of oil.
Had problems since the first day of purchase
I thanked God that I purchased the extended warranty with this vehicle. Now that I have 160,000+ miles on the vehicle I am at its mercy. The most recent problem is with the transmission.
Typical Gm garbage this truck has 54000 and is pampered. I change oil every 1500 miles or three months. Do all scheduled maintenece early. It in the shop every other month. Whhel bearings , alternator, water pump, transfercase, pulleys, fuel pump etc. almost as bad as my ex 2001 malibu. which now is replaced by a2010 toyota corrolla. No mor Gm cars for me and thats all i ever bought in my 40years of driving.
when bought my blazer it had 275.000 miles on it it now has 330,000 miles and it runs great it has a complete original drive train and has plenty of power and runs smooth. the trans does however shifts hard from 1st to 2nd but only from time to time and has an assosiated service engine light, and being only from time to time i think it is an electical prob maybe the shift soliniode but i dont know and it is hardly a problem i expect with proper maintenence for it to continue runnig fine for while