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Springdale Automotive

RepairPal Certified Shop
Springdale Automotive
105 Verified Reviews
Springdale Automotive
105 Verified Reviews
(502) 822-2477
8005 Brownsboro Rd
Louisville, KY 40241 USA
Hours
07:00
18:00
http://purl.org/goodrelations/v1#Monday
07:00
18:00
http://purl.org/goodrelations/v1#Tuesday
07:00
18:00
http://purl.org/goodrelations/v1#Wednesday
07:00
18:00
http://purl.org/goodrelations/v1#Thursday
07:00
18:00
http://purl.org/goodrelations/v1#Friday
08:00
16:00
http://purl.org/goodrelations/v1#Saturday
Su
Closed
M-F
7:00am to 6:00pm
S
8:00am to 4:00pm
Auto Repair Experience
  • Kurt Shelton, Owner
  • Established 1995
  • 2 ASE Certified Auto Technicians
  • 70 Years of Car Repair Experience

Springdale Automotive Reviews
(98 Ratings)
5
(61)
4
(25)
3
(8)
2
(1)
1
(3)
Displaying 1 - 5 of 98 reviews
07/26/18

Had tire and rim replaced and paid $535. Had same work done at another place a few months before and paid $340. I feel like they unnecessarily mark up prices and charge for extra labor. On another car, alternator went out and had can towed here. I paid $700 for a remanufactured alternator with parts and labor. Way overcharged. Paid $370 for alternator, cost $160 on Amazon.

07/27/18

Long experience with Springdale. We've had vehicles in at Brownsboro before.

04/18/18

Good. Rotated tires but didn t check tire pressure. Did not reset dash maintenance indicator.

04/20/18

great experience.

03/28/18

Able to get appointment within a few days and car was completed quickly

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Springdale Automotive
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Please provide date and time
Need an appointment for today? Call the shop directly at (502) 822-2477(502) 822-2477

RepairPal Scorecard
94
Overall Quality Score

24
month
Nationwide
warranty
36
month
Local
warranty
Technical Ability
92
Tools & Equipment
97
Customer Service
89
Customer Amenities
95

The Brownsboro Road location of Springdale Automotive has been serving the local community since 1995. This RepairPal Certified shop features a team with an excellent mix of experience, ongoing training, and ASE certifications. They are well equipped to handle repairs ranging from tires and wheel alignment, to minor and major mechanical repairs, to check engine light diagnoses and repair, as well as your scheduled maintenance needs. Repairs are covered by a 24-month / 24,000-mile warranty for your peace of mind. Recent customers describe this shop to us as “courteous”, “professional”, “friendly”, and “wonderful”. A local shuttle service, rental vehicles, early bird drop off, Saturday business hours, and a waiting area with wireless Internet are all available for your convenience.


Details
Message From the Shop

Springdale Automotive has been owned and operated by the Shelton family since 1995. All Springdale Automotive locations are equipped with the highest quality in modern technology and equipment in the automotive repair industry. Our ASE Certified technicians and knowledgeable service advisors are trained in the most current automotive repair practices and have years of experience to ensure that you are getting the best quality repair work on your vehicle. Our friendly staff is here to make your automotive experience as smooth as possible. You can relax in our newly remodeled waiting area that offers complimentary coffee, fresh popcorn, free Wi-Fi and cable TV, or our shuttle service can drop you off at work or home and pick you up once your vehicle is ready! All our locations are linked so that you can go to any Springdale Automotive location and your vehicle’s history is accessible.

Specialities
  • AC/Heating
  • Alignment
  • Check Engine Light
  • Classic Car Repair/Restoration
  • Diagnosis
  • Hybrid/Electric
  • Mobile Repair
  • Muffler & Exhaust
  • Oil Change & Lube
  • Scheduled Maintenance
  • Service & Repair
  • Smog/Emissions Testing
  • Timing Belts
  • Tire Sales/Repair
  • Transmission Repair
+ More
Amenities
  • Car Pickup/Dropoff
  • Car Wash
  • Child Friendly
  • Coffee
  • Early Bird Dropoff
  • Financing
  • Free Estimates
  • Free Multi-Point Safety Inspection
  • Gas/Diesel
  • Heated Waiting Room
  • Military Discount
  • Open Saturday
  • Open Weekends
  • Parts/Accessories
  • Rental Car
  • Senior Discount
  • Shopping Nearby
  • Shuttle
  • Towing
  • Warranty Accepted
  • Wireless Internet
+ More
Makes We Serve
  • Acura
  • Audi
  • BMW
  • Buick
  • Cadillac
  • Chevrolet
  • Chrysler
  • Dodge
  • FIAT
  • Ford
  • GMC
  • Geo
  • Honda
  • Hummer
  • Hyundai
  • Infiniti
  • Isuzu
  • Jaguar
  • Jeep
  • Kia
  • Land Rover
  • Lexus
  • Lincoln
  • Mazda
  • Mercedes-Benz
  • Mercury
  • Mini
  • Mitsubishi
  • Nissan
  • Oldsmobile
  • Plymouth
  • Pontiac
  • Porsche
  • Ram
  • Saab
  • Saturn
  • Scion
  • Smart
  • Subaru
  • Suzuki
  • Toyota
  • Volkswagen
  • Volvo
+ More
Questions Answered by Springdale Automotive
was told some kind of senor
Sounds like it could be an issue with an idle air control motor or possibly camshaft position sensor. If it was running fine at idle before the tune up, I'd suspect the idle air control valve first, especially with the colder days we've had. That can cause it to act up more.
The car shut itself off without any warnin...
If that Mountaineer has a 4.0L V6, then yes, you most likely have a timing chain issue. When the vehicle gets that far out of time it will severely effect performance. There's also a chance you could have a transmission issue on top of it, but it would be hard to tell until the engine was running correctly. Strongly recommend finding a good shop that knows that 4.0L SOHC motor and the 5R55 transmission very well.
when I try starting on morning I must hold...
Check you're idle air control valve. The engine uses this to allow air into the motor when your foot is off the throttle (throttle body 100% closed). If the IAC is stuck shut, no air gets in, so it can't start until you press the throttle. This valve can be clogged up with carbon and sometimes a simple cleaning will get it running. Often times the valve needs to be replaced, however.
It's turning over but won't fire up
Fuel, fire, compression and timing are the 4 items any engine needs to start. Keep in mind that if you have a bad crankshaft and/or camshaft position sensor the computer does not know when to inject fuel or fire the spark, so it won't try.
It's also possible that your new fuel pump is not getting any power. Might double check all your fuses. The security system also disables the fuel pump if it believes the car is being stolen, so it seems like a bad fuel pump, but if there is a security light flashing while trying to start, that issue would have to be cured first.
Hello everyone and thanks for your time. F...
It sounds like you're having an issue with the idle air control motor. All the symptoms match up with that kind of an issue. Sometimes it happens simply because there is carbon built up on the valve and it needs to be cleaned. Other times the valve needs to be replaced. Either way, it is also possible that there is an idle re-learn procedure that may need to be done to enable the car to idle correctly.
Good luck. ;-)
When I take off my van shifts just fine un...
Unfortunately, the Dodge Caravan and the Chrysler Town & Country were notorious for transmission failures. I strongly recommend having it checked out at a reputable transmission shop as soon as possible. If there's is any chance of saving it, the sooner they get it the better. I'm sure Repair Pal has a shop they can refer you to.
Tire monitor gauge will not shut off.
Pre...
Tire Pressure Monitor Sensors (TPMS) are very sensitive, if the tire pressure is off 3-5 lbs it can set the tire light off. Some cars even if the spare is low it will keep the tire light on. Make sure all tires even the spare are at the proper inflation level (found on the sticker on the inside of the door) Nitrogen is 3x bigger molecules then air molecules, nitrogen does not fluctuate with weather temperature like air does. Nitrogen will keep your tires inflated longer and keep that tire light off longer. Nitrogen helps the most on vehicles with chrome rims, there is no moisture in nitrogen like there is air so your less likely to see your chome start to chip and flake away.
I was coming home from a friends an hr aw...
Based on your description of how you lost heat after 10 minutes of driving is an indication that the vehicle was loosing coolant. When the level gets low the vehicle can no longer circulate coolant through the heater core, this causes you to lose heat. My suspicion is that the vehicle suffered a fairly serious leak while you were driving (since you had not seen a leak previously) and once the coolant level got low, everything else you're describing is consistent with an overheating cycle. The smoke coming from the exhaust is a strong indication that the head gaskets have blow. Depending on how long you drove after this point and how hot the engine got, the cylinder walls could also have suffered damage which will require a new or rebuilt engine to correct the problem fully. Most likely it is that steam in the system that caused the melted coolant outlet housing. When a vehicle is overheated to that extreme all components should be suspect and inspected; i.e.- Radiator, heater core, hoses, etc.
The AC has been working without any proble...
It sounds like you have temperature blend door that is not moving. This door is inside the HVAC box under the dash and it directs air over the heater core/evaporator core in different ratios to give you the temperature you're wanting. The most common failure is the blend door actuator, but it can also be the temperature control switch or the blend door itself. The first step should be to isolate which of these components has failed so that you are not replacing parts needlessly. The temperature blend door actuator and temperature blend door both involve removing the dash board to gain access and will be labor intensive jobs. The temperature control switch is much easier to get to but the part will be more expensive. There is not likely going to be a "cheap" way to repair this problem, unfortunately.
I filled it up with gas and it started mis...
If you are finding oil in the PCM I would start by checking the oil pressure sending unit to see if it is leaking oil through the sensor and connector into the wiring harness. If it is, it is possible that the oil is wicking through the harness to reach the PCM. I have seen this in a past a couple of times. I've also seen a fuel rail pressure sensor do the same thing and it filled the PCM with fuel. Kinda scary.
You will need to cure this issue before you can begin properly diagnosing the running issues. This could involve replacing the PCM and wiring harness. I would definitely recommend getting some professional advice, first hand, on this one before going too far.

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