TLC Auto Shop

RepairPal Certified Shop
TLC Auto Shop
29 Verified Reviews
TLC Auto Shop
29 Verified Reviews
(214) 643-8175
3680 Dilido Rd
Dallas, TX 75228 USA
8:00am to 6:00pm
Auto Repair Experience
  • Ken Suter, Owner
  • Established 2009
  • 3 Auto Repair Mechanics on Staff
  • 1 ASE Master Auto Technician
  • 18 Years of Car Repair Experience

TLC Auto Shop Reviews
(29 Ratings)
Displaying 1 - 5 of 29 reviews

The work they did was explained thoroughly and completed in a timely fashion. No sticker shock and they even came to pick up my car.


Took a little while to figure out the problem.


They are always very thorough and do a great job.


TLC has been taking care of my family cars for 10 years and they go over and above. I LOVE that they pick up the cars, fix them and bring them back. GREAT SERVICE!!!


Always a great experience.

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TLC Auto Shop
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Need an appointment for today? Call the shop directly at (214) 643-8175(214) 643-8175

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TLC Auto Shop was established in 2009 and has been providing the local community with quality automotive repair ever since. This RepairPal Certified shop features an experienced team led by an ASE certified Master Technician. Repairs performed here can range from minor and major mechanical repairs, to check engine light diagnosis and repairs, as well as your scheduled maintenance needs. All this work is backed by an unlimited lifetime warranty and a million-mile warranty for your peace of mind. Our survey of their recent customers revealed a group who enthusiastically describe the team here as “knowledgeable”, “efficient”, “helpful”, “friendly”, and "awesome". A local shuttle service, rental & loaner cars, early bird drop off, and a waiting area with wireless Internet are also available for your convenience.

Message From the Shop

Free pick-up / drop off, & rides
Lifetime - million mile warranty option
Pay Plan Financing available for auto repair.
Saturday hours by appointment.

  • AC/Heating
  • Check Engine Light
  • Diagnosis
  • Hybrid/Electric
  • Muffler & Exhaust
  • Oil Change & Lube
  • Roadside Assistance
  • Scheduled Maintenance
  • Service & Repair
  • Timing Belts
  • Transmission Repair
  • Upholstery
+ More
  • Car Delivery
  • Car Pickup/Dropoff
  • Early Bird Dropoff
  • Financing
  • Heated Waiting Room
  • Loaner Car
  • Service Guarantee
  • Shuttle
  • Warranty Accepted
  • Wireless Internet
+ More
Makes We Serve
  • Acura
  • Audi
  • BMW
  • Buick
  • Cadillac
  • Chevrolet
  • Chrysler
  • Dodge
  • FIAT
  • Ford
  • GMC
  • Geo
  • Honda
  • Hummer
  • Hyundai
  • Infiniti
  • Isuzu
  • Jaguar
  • Jeep
  • Kia
  • Land Rover
  • Lexus
  • Lincoln
  • Mazda
  • Mercedes-Benz
  • Mercury
  • Mini
  • Mitsubishi
  • Nissan
  • Oldsmobile
  • Plymouth
  • Pontiac
  • Porsche
  • Ram
  • Saab
  • Saturn
  • Scion
  • Smart
  • Subaru
  • Suzuki
  • Toyota
  • Volkswagen
  • Volvo
+ More
Questions Answered by TLC Auto Shop
I recently bought a new battery after the ...
Autozone employees are in the business of selling parts - they are not trained in diagnosing problems. If he didn't use a test light or a power probe to check your fuses, & check at multiple fuse boxes, he did not check your fuses properly. I would 1st check the dash light dimmer switch to make sure it isn't dialed to dim, if not, then find a wiring diagram to see which fuses, power sources, & grounds are related.
Can i bypass light switch on my mitsubishi...
It can be done, but you would have to have a really good understanding of wiring diagrams. Especially with Mitsubishi's 30 year old diagrams - they are a bit roughly drawn & harder to read than modern diagrams.
Replaced relay and will not start but I ca...
check for battery voltage at terminals 1 & 5 of the relay, and ground at terminal 2. I'm going to assume terminal 3 is ok since you get get it to work by jumping it.

If terminal 2 isn't grounded, repair the ground.

If terminal 1 doesn't have 12+ volts, check the 7.5a STA fuse. If the fuse is good, check at the clutch or park/neutral switch. If the fuse has no pwer going to it, check terminal 8 of the ignition switch.

If terminal 5 doesn;t have 12+ volts, check the 100a alt fuse & the 40a AM1 fuse.
The dashboard light is on but the engine i...
I would 1st check to see if you have at least 12.5 volts at the battery + give the terminals a little tug to see if they are tight. If all is ok at the battery, test the fat wire at the starter - should have battery voltage all the time. the small wire at the starter should have voltage when the engine is cranked. If voltage at the starter looks ok, suspect the starter, otherwise trace the problem in the starter circuit
I need to locate the low pressure port to ...
locate where the 2 A/C lines go through the firewall, it should be on one of those lines or on the accumulator
My 2015 q50 stops blowing cold air when id...
when you notice that it's not cooling properly, pop the hood open & make sure that both cooling fans are blowing hard (they have a low, mid & high speed), and that the fan shrouds are intact - no cracks or breaks or gaps. Also, make sure that your engine temp gauge on the dash is reading just about in the center.
I have seen IPPM E/R (which contains the fan relay) overheat when stressed & intermittently not control the fans properly.
If the fan operation or the engine temp is abnormal, then repair is necessary, if not - if may be an engineering flaw in which all of that make & model have the same AC problem.
My car starts but I cannot remove key from...
you'll need a diagnostic analyzer to get started figuring this one out.
if it has any of these trouble codes: P0318, P1629, U1040, U1064, U1153, U1192, and U1300 stored in the ECM. (Other Class 2 modules may have a U0100 and/or U1000 code stored). , then you should check out technical service bulletin TSB - PIC5460B possible problem with circuit 5290 or1807.
If the car has none of those codes, it may be a weak battery or poor connection, or dash integration module, or engine control module, or other possible problems.
Any ideas on what could continue to cause ...
If you're sure that the cooling system is staying full/not leaking externally, Make sure that the cooling fan(s) (both if it has 2) are running at the radiator at normal temperature.
You can try to crank the vehicle with the cooling system full & the pressure cap off - if you get a geyser while cranking, it may be an indicator of a cylinder head problem.
There is also a chemical test kit sold at parts houses in which a test sample turns blue in the presence of combustion gasses (another indicator of a head problem)

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