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Volvo 240 Questions

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98
questions

Drove home fine, but dash lights all on now, never before, all of a sudden. Temp gauge went almost in red zone.

I've had this car 22 years...car shifts fine its an automatic. I had the trans fluid changed 4 months ago, sound just returned.

an oem new one.2 months later I went to stop and had no breaks.I bled them and just a drop or 2 of fluid came out of fitting.Master cyl is full.No visible fluid leakon inner wheel.Could the master cyl. be clogged up.A possible defective booster?I have NO pressure on the peddle at all.Any and all help much appreciated.I'm a disabled vet and this car is my life saver as far as appts at V.A.etc

It want turn over,look under the dash couldn't find it

On the way to get an oil change a arrow appeared on the das.It started to smoke.What does this mean?The arrow appears periodically along with a flashing oil sensor.

Ihave a 1986 volvo 240d l Put a new signal switch on and lost the paper with the 4 wire colors on it. Really appreciate some help. Please help me, I'm down to driving a chevy. 681-945-3317 John L.

A mechanic told me my car (1989 240 wagon) is "a heart attack waiting to happen), said he checked the oil pressure with a gauge and that it's low and he has no idea why, that it's "rare" for these vehicles but that I "should stay close to home." It is absolutely not a wiring issue. What should I do? The car is running fine - new rattling sound to left of steering wheel, like plastic is loose in there, but that's it, nothing new.

Car just completed 1050 mi.journey,no problems.I did notice a kerlunk when starting to accelerate as though the back wheels were trying to stay connected to the front when I got home.

the brake lite dont work

WHEN GOING UP A HILL ITS SLOW AND HAS TO BUILT UP SPEED, WHAT COULD BE THE CAUSE

THE CAR BURNS TO MUCH FUEL FOR A FOUR CYCL.

OCCURRED EVERY TIME REVERSING WITH STEERING HARD LEFT. CLUNK SHAKES CAR.

Vehicle has been sitting for a little over a year after I ran out of money for repairs. Now I have the money but I cannot get the car to start. Charged the battery numerous times but that does not help. There is no cranking or any starting noises at all. Thought it might be something with the fuel pump.

car sat 2 months waiting for exhaust and tuneup repairs. ran great for 2 weeks then wouldn't start after filling gas up. will start with starter fluid but die when it was gone. power going to under floor main pump both sides of under dash fuel relay work power out of fuse box 4 and 6 power after fusible link under carpet.mechanic benchtested pump and replaced filter ran 1 week wouldn't restart after filling gas. starts with s fluid . i removed main pump bench tested it was good was going to change it but didnt have filter pump line .put it together starts right up ran 20 min. no problem shut off wouldnt restart

Have read it may be the o2 sensor. Does anyone know how much that might cost to have looked at? or any other suggestions?

is the sensor on the front of the engine or underneath the engine

Have been looking in various places on the web and in a book but have not been able to find the answer. I am needing to know exactly where it is that the freon needs to be put into.

ran out of gas. I can use starting fluid to get it started but won't stay running. I replaced cap,roter,plugs.Thanks for your help

There is not enough clearance. Do I have to lift the engine up?

Daughter blew up the original engine and when trying to drop in a used engine, we discovered that the newer engine has an electronic distributor. The old one was mechanical. Since my wiring harness has no extra wires for the electronic distributor, can I swap them out and use my old mechanical distributor?

Year selection does not cover 1960. The model of the vehicle is Volvo PV 544.

Once again, the vehicle is a 1960 Volvo PV 544.

Is the horn connected to the air bag? The horn doesn't work at all.

well the Turn off signals work . that is about it…. Could it be the relays if so where are they?

this car was running fine and then cut off. started only once since ran for a minute fine tried to drive the vehicle, started moving but once I pushed the accelerator it cut out again. gas is getting to the engine and it turns over just wont start except for a few spits every once and a while.

after it stalls you wait a few minutes and it will start back up, now when you put on the brakes the brake light come on the dash and the demisdifer light come on and stays onfor a while and then goes out until you use the brake again. i can drive it during the day and it sometime does not stall, but at night when the lights are on it will happen.

Do rotors need to be replaced with new pads.

Engine red light comes on & off. I always make sure I have enough oil in the engine. Does the red light indicate to replace engin oil sense switch. I have checked & cleaned the wire connection to the sense line. The temperature on desh seems to be fine.