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Toyota Sequoia Questions

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We went to a local mechanic who was supposed to fix our problem we had with our 2002 Toyota Sequoia. We had no problems with lights at this point before he fixed the column which had a broken gear shifter. We had the steering column replaced. He fixed it with a used part. Now there is lights on. One is the "check engine light" the other set is the "VSC on" and "Vsc off" lights. We have dropped it off to him 4 times now, because he can't seem to fix it. We paid for the column to go in, so it's his problem.

Ok, what the heck is going on, guys? I am not a mechanic, but this does not seem like it is on the up and up.

They said the first time it went in that the mechanic didn't know how to get the lights to go off. But to bring it back sometime and they would try to figure it out.

The second time, they were going to charge us for another column because they had thrown away the old steering column and need to get parts off of it, so now they had to go get another column to get parts off of.

The third time it went in for a different problem they had fixed and they had called back and said they had fixed not only the problem it went in for but also the lights.

and now, time #4, I just received his phone call and I am just trying to figure this out.....

It now needs a "BRAND NEW" steering column to fix the problem with the VSC lights. Cost $385.00, this is his supposed cost and he won't charge me for labor.

The check engine light is a different problem. There is a small leak in a line somewhere which is not a problem, except that it is causing the check engine light to go on. We need to order you a new part which is $417.00.

Is this probably a tracking sensor problem and how expensive to repair.

Any ideas what the problem is

I tried to plug my tester in but could not locate the connector receptacle anyplace under the dash on the driver's side (or passenger side). I looked behind the ash tray too as suggested by the tester manufacturer.

Mechanic says source of the leak is the fittings attaching the transmission fluid tubes to the radiator and says the radiator has to be replaced. Why can't thye just repair the fittings?

My 2003 sequoia will start and then stop a few seconds later. But will start and run on the second try. Also it runs fine until I give it a lot of gas, then it's starts to buck. There are no vacuum leaks, I've changed the fuel filter and mass air flow sensor with no change. Any ideas?

no probelms prior to the warning lights.....called the dealer and they said the vehicle probably needs to recycle after a refill or it may be the gas cap. Checked all and still lights are on. Took it to the dealer they didn't give any codes but said it is the charcoal canister??? Big repair bill, anyone have this problem?

changed air comp twise dryer rear and front valves two diferent mechanics

how would u get a disc out of the radio I believe my wife put two discs in

I think there might of been two put in at the same time

But the truck will start and run fine the second time I start it. I checked for vacuum leaks and there were none. I changed the fuel filter with no change. I pulled codes p0101 and p0102, so I changed the MAS with no change. It's now showing that all 4 oxygen sensors are bad. Would that cause it to have the starting issues? Should I change the 02 sensors because there pretty expensive? I also cleaned the throttle body which gave it a smoother idle. Any ideas?

I don't notice when the problem appear for first time

The truck starts and then shuts down. But if I start it again it stays started. It also shut down one time while driving, but started again right after shutting down. I checked the vacuum hoses and there were no leaks or broken hoses.Can you please help?

Truck was running fine. I parked for 1-hour and tried to restart. Dash lights up, clicking sound, w/headlamps that go off quickly, and the engine does not turn over at all--absolutely no cranking.

Is this battery or starter, or something else?

Dreaded P0420 code. I've sprayed carb cleaner in the engine bay to test for air leaks, I've cleaned MAF sensor, replaced PC valve, no leaks in header or exhaust. Reading O2 sensor voltages produces these results. Under load both left and right post cat sensors read pretty similar. When coming off the gas both eventually drop to a lean condition. Then left post sensor almost immediately jumps to full rich. I don't think it’s a leaky injector because the left pre cat sensor doesn't spike. If anything it goes just a little lean on the left side (compared to right). I switched the post cat O2 sensors to see if it could be the sensor itself. No difference. I think it has to be a cat going (gone) bad. Does this all jive? Thanks a bunch for the help!!

I have a Toyota Sequoia and the passenger side outer tie rod has cracked in half. The crack is between the ball joint and where the tie rod threads into the outer tie rod. From looking at the end view of the broken tie rod, it appears the crack began some time ago. This was determined by the gradual discoloration from dark dirty to bright and shiny metal where it finally failed.

disassembled the door. cam that runs off motor to door lift assembly welds broke. how do i get a replacement assembly - not at the dealer, cant afford that. the cold weather is coming and i need the window up.

Clutch is gone on automatic and need to know the cost to have it rebuilt.

diagnostic said the canister purge valve solenoid needed replaced to turn check engine light off. Where is it on engine and how much is the part?

I was just wondering about how much it would cost to fix this problem? The codes stated it was a malfunction with the secondary air injector.

Recently my power locks and alarm stopped working when using the key fab. I thought it was the batteries in the key fab so I tried my backup fab. It also didn't work. Then I noticed the power locks didn't work at all unless the ignition was turned over. The same for the dome lights, when I opened the doors with the car off the dome lights would not work. But they work fine when the car is started. I double checked to make sure the lights were set to the "door position". The rear window also does not work when I insert the key and turn it - unless the car is started.

Is there a fuse that controls this that needs to be replaced, or is this a bigger issue?

Any advice would be appreciated.

The belts are worn. I need to know how to purchase the belts to ensure that they are completely safe and work with the cars electronics. Anything to beware of when purchasing?...when installing?
Thanks.

The door will not open but the window will come down

It leaks onto the seering rack, but only after the car is off and it starts to cool down. Is this a freeze plug? It lloks as if it is coming from the transmission, but I have no Transmission leak.

i heard someone say a knock sensor or a yaw sensor idk.

Labor hours and aveage cost?

i ask several auto parts and each one says different pressures numbers, now I'm confuse . i need to know if my gas pressure on my is correct.

The window comes down crooked and makes a loud pounding noise as if its about to break. The window will go back up smoothly.

Where is Bank 2 Sensor 1?

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