Toyota MR2 Spyder Questions

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Trying to determine what needs to be fixed. Not sure if the ECU needs to be replaced if car still runs?
I have to use both feet on the peddles to start it. It idles so slow that it dies. I had fault codes p1646 p1647. I removed the fuse for a time and i unhooked the negative cable from my battery to fix the faults once i tried to start it the car sounded like it was out of gas or flooded but i pushed on the gas and brake/clutch and it started but wouldnt idle.
I had some black smoke come out of exhaust the car was not overheated and just lost power while I was in 3rd gear
it would turn over but wont start what could it possibly be
I have checked the fuses in the main panel and that isn't the problem. I replaced a few of the bulbs so that isn't the problem. The headlights come on just fine.

A little background:
The tail lights were sometimes coming on and sometimes not. Sometimes one would come on and I'd tap on the other and it would finally come on.

A few months ago, I got in my car and had a dead battery and the culprit turned out to be that my brake lights wouldn't turn off. So I fixed that after watching a youtube video and it worked like a charm.

I went through a period of a few of months that didn't drive the car at all. When I did decide to take it for a spin, I found about 4 inches of water in the floorboard. My top apparently leaked because leaves had plugged up the drain filter...ugh! My radio no longer works but I'm not worried about that right now.
I got the water out and cleaned it all up and let it air out for another month.

I finally jump started it back up today and drove it around but neither the tail lights nor brake lights come on. I am not a mechanic but I am pretty good at fixing things if I know what to fix. If anyone has any ideas, I would really appreciate it. If it's too complicated I'll leave it to a pro but if it's just something minor I'd rather save my money. Thanks!
many owners of mr2's say never and dealers usually say yes.
the pump comes on an off while idling an when driving will shift fine but occasionally the trans light will come on. the only time you can get in reverse is when the pump will make screeching noise,
New rings included in kit. Would this solve the oil burning problem? (Have located a 2001 MR2 with 162 K on it; owner told me of oil problem and is willing to negotiate; car otherwise in excellent condition other than expected interior wear. Thanks. ELK(USNA'68)
While driving tranny goes to neutral, then it will not go back in gear. After waiting a while it will then resume. Sometimes goes days without screwing up.
Auto window, 2004 spider,
Dealer is quoting me $600 to install one wheel hub/bearing assembly. Seems outrageous to me.
I was braking moderately heavily into my driveway as usual but this time my car came to an immediate halt just as I was abt to change down to 2nd & the engine cut out simultaneously, like it wld in an accident. I hv felt abs shudder before so I know what it is, but this was something else. My car came to a dead stop & shut down! Is this how abs works in a mk 3 spyder? There was no indication on my dash of an error when I restarted the engine (I didnt notice one when it stopped so maybe it was functioning as it should? But there was no abs light either) And it drove ok the short distance (20m) from the curb to my garage. Ive never experienced this in my car & im sure ive pushed it harder in the 11 years ive driven it from new. I was only doing 50-60kmh in 3rd before I began to brake. Car has done 83000km and is serviced annually, plus some. Had front bumper replaced last week after a driver reversed into my parked car. Will someone pls enlighten me? :-)
ok so before, my car has been having problems. it was misfiring in cylinder 1 and 3 so replaced the sparkplugs, spark plug boot and the coil plug boot. i also gave it an oil change and everything seemed to be fine and i did this like 5-6 months ago but now recently the idle went really low to the point if im not going at least 5mph the car dies on me. it feels jumpy like the engine is overexerting itself and the whole car smells like burnt. white smoke is also coming from the engine so for now it is in my garage because even if i want to drive, the engine wont turn. it will start but it doesnt catch. anyone know what it could be?
The 02 sensor heater circuit, bank 1 sensor 2. Denso. Is this located on the right or left or underneath?
What is this code? Smog shop gave me this code.
The car drove very well but I'd like to know what's causing that check engine light. It is an older car but in excellant condition with only 78320 miles on it.
Despite the cost of a roll bar which is about $600, how much is the installation fees?
The car starts and runs, but will not go into gear. It runs for about 10 seconds and dies before flashing several lights, including the N – neutral light and the Gear light. The HPU runs for about 17 seconds upon opening the door and then shuts off.
When the key is at the ON position, the HPU switches on and off several times with the clutch solenoid engaging and disengaging in between. Then it finally stops.

I have inspected the SMT fluid and there appears to be no metal that I can see, but I did replace it anyway. I also replaced the battery. It is brand new. I checked the door switch and it works link it should. I have a read out of the diagnostic codes from the TCU.
They are:

P0900 – Clutch solenoid circuit
P0934 – Accumulator pressure sensor/Low voltage
P2716 – Pressure solenoid

I tested the HPU relay and it is fine.
I also switched the shift stroke sensor and the clutch stroke sensor, but the codes were the same when checked again.

Any help would be appreciated!
what size of person can fit in one of these spyders? only small thin people? any comments on the seat size comfort?
They stay on whether the car is on or off. I did notice one of the light on the top panel in my trunk is out. There should be 3 and only two work.
engine light is now blinking
ebuilt it, removed the cats and seems like timing is off? Help please

have been restoring a 2000 spyder from front to back. have pretty much removed and replaced every electrical component in the motor. ( except the computer and o2 sensors )
have had it on a hand held and made adjustments. seems like once we replace one item adjust the computer it will be decent for about a day and then
it looses power, gets louder like the timing is off, and when I pull up to a red light and stop I get an exhaust smell.

the idle fluctuates from 800 to 1000 . we just replaced the idle air motor as you could see the scoring on the inside of the old one.
ran good for a day and is back to smelling and running bad like the timing is off again.

we keep thinking we are getting an over fueling problem at this point. every time we replace anything we get it adjusted seems good for a bit and then it
starts to sound like the timing is off again and the smell returns. oh my god this has been a year project just on the motor.

Any suggestions would be so greatly appreciated !!! thanks steve

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