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Toyota Camry Questions

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2001 Toyota camry engine check light OBD code P0440. Miles: 145,000 . What should be bad part? Charcoal canister or vapor pressure sensor? please advice me.
it only happened once it doesnt run. It happened while I was driving when I stopped at a stop sign. didnt make any noice it just didnt move and when I put it park it rolled.
I am replacing converter in front, codes P0770 and P0110 are coming up. Am not able to pass smog. This is the first time these situations have come up since owning this great car. Do I need to replace all of these parts to pass smog?
Not getting brake fluid to driver rear caliper.. I change the hose to the caliper brand new.Also bought a new caliper,but still can't get brake fluid to driver rear caliper..I'm puzzled
2001 Toyota Camry LE V6-3.0 motor the car was made in Japan ( do you have to remove the valve covers to replace the camshaft seals ) also I know that they sell a kit that you can buy that has the crankshaft seal,new water pump,new timing belt etc.and new camshaft seals in the kit what would be a good kit to buy like a OEM type kit and from who and also how much should it cost for the kit and also how much to install the kit and how many hrs. does it take for this type of job P.S. I was told that I had a leak from the camshaft seal & the car has 150000 miles on it thank you
The temperature gauge is not getting hot but both the intake tube and out take tube are sucking in and I hear a gurgling noise when I turn the car off
car bounces over rough roads
After the car shifts into overdrive and cruising the transmission automatically downshifts to 2nd gear
It runs great for days and then it will stall out and i have to wait for it to restart again and sometimes I have to have it towed. I have changed the distributor and sensors. I have had several mechanics work on it and none have been able to figure it out. I have disconnected the alarm and the remote start but nothing has helped.
VSC and egine check light illuminating
Rebuilt engine but vacuum hoses where disconnected, and engine cuts out after engine reaches full running temperature.
Turns on but only static
My blower motor ceased to function overnight, no noise beforehand, I've bench tested and blower motor appears to be ok. I checked voltage at the plug, and it's very low about 1 volt or a little more. Could the problem be at the resistor? fuses appear to be ok.
All of sudden, speed drops and car moves @ 10 MPH. We stop, and start again. Run fine. Happens almost once daily. Is it doing that because the throttle body is dirty or it needs to be replaced? I went to AutoZone to run a diagnostics test and the code threat that it's something with the throttle sensor.
What seems to make the problem better or worse? Under my hood needs to be clean
How long have you had this problem? A couple of weeks
THe lockout on the shifter seems to be preventing the car from starting
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