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Subaru Outback Questions

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339
questions

Average cost of timing belt replacement for this car?

2006 SUBARU LEGACY OUTBACK 2.5I
AWD
STATION WAGON
2.5L H4 SFI SOHC 16V
ALL WHEEL DRIVE

all systems are functioning properly it is safe to drive it. This has been occurring for over a year, and I still get 31 pmg..when I put a plastic bag over the gas cap, sometimes that solves the problem. Just the other nite I was driving in San Diego and it went off and the next day it came back on. All systems seem to be working well..thanks, poppycoco

I am having the same exact problem with my '00 Outback. However I do not hear any backfiring.... it just feels like it is losing power when accelerating at lower speeds. Lurking, hesitation, weakness in being able to get up and go. Yes, the Check Engine light is also sputtering on and off. However the only thing this indicated when it was diagnosed was that it needed a new catalytic converter. Would a bad catalytic converter cause this issue... or would it be something else? In the colder months of the year... I have also smelled gas intermittently. Not a weak smell of gas... but a strong smell of gas... like you are sticking your nose in the tank when filling it.

The ABS will stay on until the car is stopped. Also recently went on a trip where my cruise control wouldn't work when my headlights were on after the ABS light had come on.

The head gasket has been repaired and timing belt changed. I have 112K miles on the car. After the repair I was still having the same problem. Running out of oil/engine light on/ dip stick dry. What do you think is the issue, and is it repairable?

had the heads re-done and now can't get it to run

Subaru H6 cylinder both sides

Sounds like it is coming from the passage side. Could it be a problem with trim, I mean like the plastic that covers things.

Code went away and came back, could this have been caused by sub. freezing weather...on highway engine temp went below normal range.
The engine light came after starting in very cold weather and the engine temp stayed below normal oper. range. However it is normal now so why the code?
Thanks, Skeptic

I noticed this within the 50 miles. Had the dealer check it at 100 miles. Alignment it was in spec. Just went on a 800 mile trip and had to make the correction the entire drive. Does this at all speeds. What to try next? Thanks

bulbs look good.Wires seem intact. Whats wrong here..thanks..bob

TRACTION BECOMES UNSTABLE UNDER ICY CONDITIONS WHERE IT APPEARS THAT TOO MUCH POWER IS BEING DISTRIBUTED TO THE FRONT OF THE DRIVE LINE THEN OSCILLATING TO EACH INDIVIDUAL FRONT WHEEL. IN MY OPINION TOO MUCH OF THE VEHICLES POWER IS BEING CONCENTRATED TO THE FRONT DIFFERENTIAL IS ALTERNATELY DISTRIBUTED BETWEEN THE FRONT WHEELS AND KIND OF GETS STUCK IN THIS MODE UNTIL I SLOW DOWN OR I CAN GET BETTER TRACTION ON ONE SIDE OR THE OTHER.

After sitting for anywhere from 1/2 hr to an hour, the brakes free up and the car can be driven, but only a short distance before they both lock up again.

Car ran GREAT into town (10 miles) then back. Shut it off. Son drove it to work, it stalled within 3 miles of home. Car won't RUN unless one of the sensors are unplugged from throttle body, then only runs a rough idle. Could this be a bad MAF sensor, IAC sensor, MAP??? don't know what to do about this.

If I unplug one of the 2 sensors on top of my throttle body, the car will start but only runs at a rough idle until gas peddle is pressed then dies. With car running at rough idle (as above) if I plug in "that" sensor, car will die. No engine codes reported. What are the two sensors on throttle body that are not the TPS?

I took my car to the dealership because the check engine light came on (together with cruise control flashing) and I was told that I needed to replace both catalytic converters, but none of the oxygen sensors.

It blows it out of the cylinder repeatedly. The plug was not cross-threaded so I really don't know wat to do.

After I release breaks - car practically don't move until I press gas pedal. I think it's car Computer. How to reset it. Or, just wait a couple of more days, and it will reset itself ? Thanks.

Is the fuse dedicated for just the dashboard?

My brake light and battery light go on intermittently...why? Car starts up, battery's a little crusty, but had both checked out (alternator & battery) and they are okay. Why the lights?
Thanks.

my Mechanic is telling me $800.00 to 1,000.00 but i've been searching websites and i'm seeing estimate no more than 500.00 to 600.00

I am looking at a 2005 XT with a turbo. 27000 miles and in good shape, but the turbo is a question of reliability.

can I just change the valve cover gasket which is leaking oil, and then later change the spark plugs which I understand get oil on them when the valve cover gasket leaks. Can't afford both which one should I do first? The valve cover gasket?

Told that back struts cause of car swaying and bouncing at speed. Front are leaking oil.

then it kicks in. The shifter pysically moves but not the car.help

after it started. Then ABT light came on and AB? light started flickering, turn signal lights made a swooshing sound and are dim, car made several hard jerks in the mile it took me to leave it at a shop. Any ideas what is wrong?

Never had issues before. Care has 74500 miles. No warning lights or alarms on dash.

When pressing on gas pedal, there is a kind of rattling sound.

Not the entire axle just the inner rubber boot. I understand the part can avg. about $60

After driving for a mile or two idle is about 900 to 1000 RPM