Subaru Legacy Questions

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the power indicator light is flashing how do i address a possible auto tran control system issue

for no reason throttle body will stop taking message from foot pedal. engine revs to approx 2500 rpm when put in park. have to shut off engine and restart. If it starts on first try problem is still there. has to role and not start first then on next try it will start and problem is gone for a little while. really wierd. anyone else have this??

but rpms go way up makes clunky noise then evens out 210k on it. whats up? All responses appreciated Thanks happens once in a while disconcerting when it does

When i put the key in the egnition to start my car it will turn the power on, but will not continue over to start. Like i said the key is all the way where it should be to have started the car it just will not turn over. I still have power in the car and everythng works. I can jump it to start it that way and the check engine light and the cruise control is blinking.

made a funny nock /slap underneath then noticed speedo not working went to start and move an hour later and drive line wont spinn

when i put a brand new battery in the car theres still no electricity.

This has less than 150,000 miles on car losing power esp. on hills diagnosed plugged converter is covered under a warranty can't drive no power

Hello I,ve spent over $1000 now and still the same,I,ve had air flow meter replaced good spark plugs,and lots of labour trying to find fix,right then 50/50 of time it goes limp when taking off and over taking on high way,taking off put foot down and it just crawls til it finly kicks in but not at full boost,but some times it goes ok,it feels like it chocking or flooding,will it be o2 sensors or cat,or something to do with fuel inject,also it's just started to shake badly when breaking when going anything ova 100 k ,thanx for reading and please help me

The new pump sounds like it is working, but still no fuel in the lines. Could this be a fuel relay problem?

Noticed this happening when A/C on and traveling fast enough to be locked up. Tach was fluctuating and could feel it locking and unlocking. Seems to do it right when maintaining speed. Now it does it without A/C on. Noticed that I can get it to lockup by reducing throttle position and load, but as soon as I increase TP, it unlocks. Too much of this gives light and code p0740. Did not notice the lockup problem until started using the A/C this summer.

Tranny also will not shift into 4th gear in Winter until I am 5 miles up the road. Used magnetic heater on pan and decreased to 2-3 miles. I did get a "fluid temp..." something code at one point during the winter.

Tranny also fits one of the brake band adjustment symptoms in the FSM. Shifting from 2-3, it "boggs down" like it's going into 4th, then "lets go" and revs through 3rd and shifts into 4th normally. I can avoid this if I let off the throttle at the right time for the correct duration, but it's tricky. FSM said to back off on brake band adjustment. I have not had any work done to the transmission. Bought used with 77000miles and now has 95000. Trying to figure out if it's feedback from sensors or actual problem with TC, solenoid, fluid pressure, or PCM.

Sometimes my vehicle 2007 Subaru will not start (2X daily). I have only been successfully starting the vehicle after I tap on the starter motor with a hammer or large wrench. What is wrong with the vehicle? Thanks. DIY TommyT

I accidentally grabbed the collar whole shifting into 6th gear on the highway. Lots of grinding, now no reverse. Seems like it shifts in but as soon as I let off the clutch more grinding and it pops out of gear. Thanks for any help

Have had car for about 10 months front driver side tires wears tread on outer edge real bad. But all the sudden out of no where car started to have a wobble and or shaking only when I accelerate. And up hills the more throttle I give it the worse it gets. Same when rpm gets high but will stop instantly if you let off gas and coast or put it in neutral. I have to get up to speed as slow as possible to try and avoid it from shaking/wobbling What will it most likely be?

Cv axle?, wheel bearing?, differential?,

i brought my car in today to have them determine why i am getting a check engine light and they told me it was due to low compression on the cylinder and i would have to get my engine replaced. is that accurate?

Burps farts sometimes dies at 55+ on hyway restarts in N. ATtrans.whats up?

The dash lights come on, the key turns in the ignition, but the engine doesn't even attempt to turn over. There will be a buzzing sound, or sometimes a quiet clicking, but nothing else. After many tries, or just walking away and trying later, the car will simply start as it should. I've replaced the battery several times, but don't think that's the issue. Shops say they can't replicate the problem, so can't solve it. I think it's electrical. I've been told it is not my starter or alternator. PLEASE help. I've been stranded several times.

while driving my car the elect. system completely shut off no door locks,lights or hazard lights ignition switch wouldn't unlock to remove the key and trans. selector wouldn't shit into neutral to push out of traffic then 5-10 mins. later the key turned elect.returned and the car started and worked fine . the pos. bat. terminal was completely covered in corrosion so I replaced the term. also during the day the outside temp. was over 100 degrees.
what would cause this all to happen

going down the road on a 100 plus degree evening my car shut off on its own nothing elect. would work and the ignition would only let me turn the key to ON ,START ,and LOCK but would not release the key to pull it out of the ign.
after about 5 or 10 min I heard a light clicking noise behind the radio turned the key to remove it and it came out after that i started the car . could the 100 + degree heat of the day or a completely corrosion covered pos. term. (whitch I had to replace ) have caused the temp. power failure or is it the IGN. switch?

Gears are shifting harder after adding transmission fluid

Turns over but will not start.

The mechanic said he suspects the converter and replacing the transmission when the car could not move when put on reverse?

The transmission has just been taken from another same Subaru model and was running just fine.

its 22611AA331

My car rattles in the undercarriage as I excel and the I get to 35 it quiets down.
It started yesterday after I when to car wash and steadily gotten worse. Last week my check engine went on however I was thinking that had to do with the need for oil.

So whenever I turn a sharp corner like pulling in and out of a parking spot the wheels kind of "jump" I dont know how to describe it exactly. Does anyone know what could cause this? It doesnt happen if its a regular corner just sharp ones.