Subaru Impreza Outback Questions

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A few days later motor attempted to turn over but just backfires and won't start
Are there any other parts that have to be removed?
now the clock went out, will not work with battery reconnect- now door ajar light is always on and security light flashes off and on- is it a problem with the car's computer or something else?
At 45mph+ when I let off the gas and coast there will be a rattling coming from the front right side. It shakes the steering wheel but doesn't cause any impairment while driving. When the shaking/rattling is happening if I hit the brakes it stops but when I let off it rattles/shakes again at 45mph+ while coasting. Sometimes after the car has sat whether it be cold or hot, when I put it in first or reverse there will be a loud clunk from the front right side when I start to move. No shaking just a loud thunk and it happens over bumps but while it's all happening if I hit the brakes it goes away. I just rebuilt the motor for this car but I'm lost on this.
I own a subaru impreza AWD automatic 1.6 L engine 2003.
I'm looking for a rear differential for my car. It seems difficult to find one.
I tried code reader but it say it can connect to the car. Werid thing battery was drained I charged it up and still act like it want to start bit it won't it whines
on my 3 liter h6, my p/s pump has a pressure switch sensor that keeps blowing out and spraying fluid. i took it out and it sems like the star washer and grommet that keeps the brass male business in the pump have no retention left in them. the p/s pump works well enough to not replace, i just need the sensor. anyone else seen this issue and how did you solve it?
Also have checked wires,all in good condition. Relays replaced. Headlights and brake lights on same switch still operating correctly.
By getting the temp stat a little up happens whenever the engines cooled
has a new fuel filter and has bin running fine
Just had clutch replaced (everything incl flywheel, all OEM) after 123k miles. Clutch now engages with pedal barely an inch off the floor - awkward at best, leads to jerky starts/stalls. I was told it's hydraulic & not adjustable, but was suggested by another there's a cylinder to bleed to raise the pedal. (I've also seen the clutch described as 'cable' in some forums, the year - 99 - being the crucial point).
My mechanic is saying that the oil leaking on to the O2 sensor is causing the an issue with the wires and the misfire because the gas is not burning properly through the exhaust
CEL came on after abrupt pot hole bump at 5 mph. Several attempts to clear fail with light return at reconnect startup.
Heater only blows cold air. I'm a novice but would like to diagnose and fix problem myself. Thanks.
The parking brake cables that were supplied with the disc knuckles from 2004 Impreza were 1-1.5 inches too short. Do I need cables from an Impreza RS? Everything worked, but the parking brake cables. Can't go too long without a parking brake.
the key goes in and starts ok, but the switch wont turn all the way back to let the key out. what causes this and how to fix?
1. Light came on when i firat got it. Took it in theybreaet it said it was fine didnt know why it came on. Came on again, took positive off and back on, went off. But wont go off now
2. When put car in drive from park, rpms go up then i have to wait for them to go down before ggoing or it jolts. Same when go from drive to reverse, vice versa
3. Car whistles when accelerates
4. First time it happened. Never seen gas light before, even when it was almost empty. But filled with gas drove around, maybe 50km and gas gage went down and light came on, two or three times within 50km
Car running great. What could cause the above? It has happened only once just overnight at its usual parking place.
Been having this problem since I bought the car. Check engine light would come on when car reached a 1/4 tank of gas. The dealer changed the part twice. It is evaporative emission control system pressure sensor high input. The car sometimes will not let me put gas in it. The pump clicks like the tank is full and gas shoots out. dealer changed it again and now the light comes on around half a tank. I only have the problem with the gas shooting out when the light is on and there's less than a 1/4 a tank of gas. He said he bought the part brand new, was wondering if it could be something else causing the part to go bad, but the dealer doesn't seem to think so. Has anyone else had the same problem any advice would be appreciated.
Engine returns to idle normally (i.e 750rpm) but after about 15-20 seconds, idle drops radically almost to a stall. Sometimes returns OBD codes P301, P302, P303, and P304 for engine misfire for all 4 cylinders.

Replaced MAF sensor, idle air control valve, fuel filter. No vacuum leaks.
all controls and lights ,radio work. will not turnover or starter ciicks. orginal starter
Dealer says it is because the independent mechanic I get service at does not add the Subaru additive during a flush and fill and encouraged me to use dealer for service. I can't afford the dealer. Is there a secret additive they add during a flush and fill that a regular mechanic would not know about?
total cost for parts and labor
i have been reading that there was a recall of the sensor. iam the original ownerand never recieved noticed;for i would have it done.i am faithful w/ oil changes and scheduled maintaince.How can you help me?
After the brief (and pretty loud) whistle, I hear a low whistling noise when driving in first gear....I dont have any problems with driving, or any loss of speed....its just the whistling noise that is really getting to me.

This whistle happens every time I turn the car on, and its running at low speeds of <20mph. I live in Hawaii, if that matters - its 70-87 degs here.
do i need to remove the hub to have new bearings pressed in

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