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Pontiac Montana Questions

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Heat also works in the front of the van but not the back.

CLEANING THE RIGHT REAR WHEEL SENSOR (CHANGED AXLE DUE TO TORN BOOT) DIDN'T HELP. NO BAD SOUNDS. PROBLEM STARTED AFTER PUNCTURE IN REAR TIRE WAS REPAIRED - WHEEL REMOVED AND REPLACED BY TECH. THAT SHOP SAYS "THEY DID NOTHING". COULD THE WHEEL SENSOR HAVE BEEN DAMAGED BY THE TIRE GUYS?

The power operated door will not shut. You can push on it and it look like it shut but as soon as you let the pressure off of it it comes back. It is almost like it won't clasp.

The rear doors don't open and close the way they should all the time. And the buzzer stays on saying a door is open when they are closed.

While driving my RPM went up and my van stuttered a little. It mostly happened after a complete stop and then pushing on the gas. It also happened while pulling in to parking lot. What causes this?

It has many miles and the motor is getting tired. Under power and in gear it started to fall on its nose, loose speed. In park or neutral you can throttle up and all. But under power and in gear you can not get over 2000 rpm and around 25-35 mph. Up hill maybe 10 mph. Thought maybe catalytic converter was plugged and drilled 3 holes in the side of the converter. It is doing better but only 10-20 %. The time from fine to only short runs ( less than 20 blocks or so ) was about 3 months. There was a slipping of the transmission prior to current state.
. Someone said it may be the coil packs too. I need better input I van not afford to take shots in the dark.

The other day, while driving, my van went into serious overheat mode. We had just checked the fluids and they were fine. I checked the antifreeze reservoir, it was completely empty so I filled with what I had left in the jug. The heat gauge went down and all seemed to be ok. The reservoir needed filling a couple of times, but I thought that if it had actually leaked out, that would be normal. 2 days after, when I started driving, the motor started squealing like mad, van could barely be accelerated, seemed like very little power. We decided it was the water pump and changed that. That reduced the squealing but didn't stop it. The van did run better. However, during the trip, I ended up with no interior heat at all and the van did start to overheat slightly. I thought that maybe we hadn't filled the rad enough and planned to fill when I got back home. After driving for about 45 minutes, I started to get some heat but then seen vapour pouring out of the engine compartment and really overheating again. A lot of engine knocking/rattling also - before and after water pump change. Checked the oil, it wasn't really milky but there was a tiny, tiny bit of white residue on the dip stick. The dipstick indicated overflowing oil... wayyy up on the dipstick but the crankcase seems empty. Are these all related issues or do I have a ton of problems on my hands? Thanks in advance for any and all help.

Drove in morning 4 miles temp clear to red. Garage flushed pressure tested; ok. 2 days later same thing; replaced fan switch /relay; ok. Drove over 50 miles. Next morning 4 miles same thing; replaced thermostat and bled each time; ok; sat overnight and same thing again. Any other ideas.

Noise around front wheel when stoping

My tires seem to be folding in when I try to go? And car will not move why

My van is displaying the low oil pressure alarm. We changed the oil filter without any help. I can'tafford to pay to have work done. I am trying to find out how to cchange the oil pump myself. Any help would be appreciated.

I had the oil changed as was suggested but the oil light is still on, what could it be?

Just clicked. Wouldn't start. Everything like the lights and the music came on. You could listen to the radio as well. The van just wouldn't start. The day before this happened I was actually having problems with the ignition as well. The steering wheel locked as did the ignition. The original key wouldn't even unlock nor start the van

Failed emission testing came back with P0446 went and had diagnostic check out the said I need a new charcoal canister and purge valve.

When I Start car the headlights do not automatically come on and there are no rear or interior dash lights. Also when car is off lights are turned off and he is out of ignition and I open the driver side door the car dings like something has been left on but it hasn't. When car is running or off I can manually turn on headlights and they work but I still have no rear lights or interior dash lights. All other rear lights work. This is a huge problem I need to fix it I am a Widow and don't have much money so I need to fix this on my own can you help me?

when I turn car off sit 15-20 minutes it starts and drives then ability to accelerate goes out after driving a mile or so. It seems when car cools down it goes again. The car always idles fine just no acceleration.

was driving it and it just stalled and oil light came on also and it wont stay running now real ruff sounding seems like its not getting oil checked oil pan oil filter what else could it be

I have schematics guessing it is more than just 12 volts and ground to make it turn on. What am I missing? DVD player is overhead console would like to get it to work if possible. All parts were removed from the same van.

Everything was fine and then the shifter just stopped shifting when I went to put it in park?

fuel pump is pumping fine. it is now backfiring when trying to start. I cannot get it to start. it is firing. but no start. plus fuel filter is new. gas lines are new.

Almost everytime I drive it this will happen I will have to pull over turn key off try then after like 3rd time it will start

only seems to happen under hard acceleration on the highway between 50-60MPH

Can I recharge my A/C or do I need to let a mechanic do that? And if I can, how do I get the freon and how do I charge it?

a friend said its a pressure control gasket probably bad how long do I have to fix it before the transmission completely fails