Close

Nissan Altima Questions

Get answers to questions about your Nissan Altima at RepairPal. Find solutions, diagnose problems and get back on the road.

Refine by vehicle
×
Choose your vehicle
No car image 94a1663db56199c5353592009e34aaa51078a2469bed068bb8d6f0ba43accf97
Get a Repair Estimate
Guaranteed by certified locations nationwide. Learn more
RepairPal estimates are guaranteed at over 1,700 quality certified locations nationwide. Learn more
1,804
questions

No sound or movement when pushing the button to vent or open. I tried the steps in the manual to reset, but did not work. Is there an easy way to trouble shoot?

Changed both Camshaft position censors (Bank 1 and 2) and also the Crankshaft position censor. Car ran a couple days without incident then could not start after driving about 8 miles. Have started again after waiting about 30 minutes. Does the ECU need reprogramming?

Heater blows slightly warm on 2 and cold on 3,4 dose not get hot at all.

what could itbe what should i do where should i take it?

it runs fine in park but, when i put it into gear it viberates and losses power going up hills. poped the oil cap while running and it blew my hat off my head. its got a brand new mass sensor, plugs, wires, timing is spot on. help!

It starts and the lights and radio work but the remote, alarm, turn signals power doors and heater don't work. I was able to get it home but don't know what to do?

the engine starts right up but after a few minutes it will shut back off and when you press the accelerator nothing happens

the car started driving like choking and will hesitate to move,and then finally stop driving but will start. what could be the problem?

I changed the front struts on my car with some difficulty but I cannot figure out how to get to the rear shock/struts top mounting bolt to change them and they are wore out. Every diagram I have looked at shows my car having springs around the shocks on the rear just like the front but this is not accurate. There are no springs and it looks as if the top mounting bolt is located under the panel between the rear seat and the back glass. Please help me.

i looked under passenger seat and it was not there

No specific times, such as cold start, warm and running.

all times. Poss elect. controle--reverse servo. Cable Adj.

My 1997 nissan altima is shutting down at stop signs or lights. My brother looked at it and found a hose that is not connected to anything. We can't find where it belongs. The top of the hose is shaped like a candy cane and it is located by the transmission. Any help out there. Thank you.

I checked the oil plug and the filter for leaks - none. I change my own oil. During break in about 1/2 quart burned. Burning this amount of oil concerns me; and I know it is not normal.

this is my first time changing it. i just purchased this car 3 weeks ago

the engine have a lil shimmy or shake win eva i stop but it runs perfect and stop shakin if the car is in neutral

if its in park or neutral; it runs great but in drive or reverse if i stop the engine starts to shake what causes that problem

Hi,
I recently got my first car as used one and do not have much knowledge on the internals/working but am interested in learning.

The problem is that, there is lag whenever the car shifts into a higher gear. The lag is felt substantially at the lower gear shifts; from 1st to 2nd.

I had teh car diaognised at midas as well as autolabs. Both of them said that there was nothing wrong with the transmission.

Autolabs was very helpful and discovered that the exhaust converter was leaking and replaced it ( cost me my paychecek though). THey also said that the lags will go away. I admit that when i got the car back from autolabs with a replaced catalytic converter, the lag was not substantial. However, after driving 80 miles, i see the problem again. Im afraid to go back to the stores without much knowledge this time.

Please help me with some pointers.

Thanks,
deba

takes long time to start now want start at all

car is getting fuel but want crank up what should i do

It would take a long time to get the car started, now it won't turn over at all. The service engine light is on and it vibrates really bad.

knocking noise when turning wheel.

Freon level shows to be good. What could be the problem?

The car had a constant tapping sound so I replaced the rod and main barrings. The tapping stopped however, when started from a cold startyou hear three taps and then the sound goes away while the engine is running. What is making the 3 taps when cold start?

If the problem is a fuse i need a more detailed diagram. neither the panel under the hood nor on the drivers side show anything about interior lights dome lights or map lights also sais nothing about ctsy lights. The owners manual doesnt have a diagram and i cant find one online...

CHECKED SPARK PLUG OIL IS FULL

Car did not start, On the third day It started, I drove it twice that day then on the third time it was back to not starting. Fuel system issue? Maybe a crank shaft sensor issue?

05 Nissan Altima, 2.5L 4-cyl, auto trans, 140K miles. Just bought car ~2 mos ago. 3 starters & a flywheel since then, keeps chewing up teeth on starter bendix gear and flywheel ring gear due to bendix not fully engaging flywheel. No obvious misalignments found. Is this a common problem with these cars?

I replaced the front brake pads and the two front calipers on my '99 Nissan Altima (manual transmission). After bleeding the front lines, and everything seeming to go like it should, I turned the car on and the brake pedal went all the way to the floor. After pumping several times, I was able to get some resistance, but nothing that felt the way it should. We then bled the lines again, this time on all four, and nothing changed. Bled the front again, nothing happened, and I had a mechanic look at it and bleed all four lines again, still with no result. I was able to drive it around, and I can get it to brake and stop, but it certainly doesn't brake as well as it should. I have heard that it could be the master cylindar, or it could be the brake assist assembly behind the cylindar. I want to save money on this as much as I can, so I'm wondering what the best way to get this diagnosed and fixed would be. Can the electronic tests that the guys at Auto Zone detect this? Is there any visible symptom I should see when I check under the hood? And most importantly, is my car safe to drive?

I just replaced the sensor and the heat started working just fine now I have no heat again but it blows out cool/warm air