Mitsubishi Mighty Max Questions

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Can an average guy replace them his self?

Have a 1994 2.4 L Mitsubishi Mighty Max. All of a sudden the oil gauge was not reading any pressure. Replaced oil pressure sending unit. Now when the ignition switch is turned on (engine not running) the gauge immediately pegs out on high and slowing returns to no pressure. Code reader shows no electrical problems. Do bad analog gauges act this way?

when accelerating sputters and hesitates when shifting, Dies at stop lights

The idle is as soon as started & never levels out. Acts as if it's staving fir gas. Have to slowly give gas if any at all to Rev engine up.

It is a stick

it always starts with compression. If I wait a couple of minutes or sometimes just try again it starts up. It's like it is dead. Any guesses?

I've been missing my heater lately. I'm not very mechanically inclined, but I do like to avoid spending money, so I tried exploring the heater in my truck to see if I could get it working (I suppose it stopped working unknown to me over summer). First, I made sure I topped off my coolant levels (it was actually low). Then I took out the cd player and plastic around that area to see it there were any obvious unconnected wires (nothing my amateur eyes saw). Then I put a new fuse in, even though the other fuse didn't seem blown, it looked old. To my surprise the heater came on and I was proud to have a saved money and the embarrassment of just having to replace a fuse. It worked all that night. The next day it didn't work, so I swapped the fuse out again (still not blown) and it worked. The next day, same thing, but this time it didn't come on with a fresh fuse. Any thoughts on what the problem might be? Thanks.

ign sw, and head.what is the name of this fusible link box. The ignition link burned in two and I fashioned another and it did the same, but 1 year later. It would not do it again so I joined all the wires together and had one incident where a wire under dash got too hot. I cannot find this part anywhere and nobody has a clue either.

Indeed, after feeling the relay close, and listening at the filler, I can hear the pump running, but none in the high pressure line at the injectors. So next, try & check return line at injector area, then crawling under and checking hoses & connections, which fortunately are on the sides of the tank.
Any suggestions are more than welcome, indeed, hoped for.
Thanks, Tom

and if it's faulty/dirty/corroded would that cause my fuel pump not to run, and the main relay unit to get quite hot?

for the past several months, it wouldn't start after a short run to home depot for more duct tape, and it kept getting worse, now no start at all. Got new pump & relay, no fuel in high pressure line at injector box...Do have spark..

All of a sudden when I cranked my Mighty Max up one day, it sounded strange. When I put it into drive (auto transmission) it started roaring before it would finally shift. It did this in every gear. After the first couple of miles it would not move at all, except barely in reverse. Soon it stopped and wouldn't move at all. Had to call a friend to tow me back home. He said it sounded like the pump that pumps transmission fluid thru the transmission was going or gone. I have never heard of this problem, but I don't know a lot about transmissions.

lighter was working, but not now

Turn on ignition

took to mechanic he said the fuel pump so I had it replaced problem still stands he found peace of metal from bottom of oil cap in engine an other Lil peace couldn't be identifyed from wher it came from.
He said replace seals ,pressure going to oil pan ,white smoke happening off an on .any help please.

We are told there is one person in America that makes new ones...
The repair cost with parts is $2000.00
I see gasket job is $600-900, so a new head costs $1200????

Replaced distributor thought it was cam or crank sensor replaced ecu when it doesn't start it is not getting a spark if you keep clicking the ignition eventually it usually will start thanks for any advise don't know what else to do

The speedometer/odometer has been inoperable for quite some time now. (Have been using a GPS to judge speed.) However, Johnny Law said its time to fix the speedometer due to a speeding ticket. Here is the issue, 1.) With the instrument cluster removed and using a drill inserted into the hole for the cable the speedometer/odometer register as it should. 2.) With the cable removed from both the instrument cluster and the speedometer disconnect (which i will elaborate on shortly) I can verify the cable moves freely and is in fact in one piece. Now, the speedometer disconnect I speak of is some sort of an electromagnet. One end threads into the transmission and the cable threads into the other. On the transmission side there is a small diameter shaft with approx. 1/4 inch of spline near the center.On the cable side it has the appropriate hole for the end of the cable. It has a sticker which reads (Speedometer Disconnect) and 12VDC only, as well as 2 very small diameter wires (around 22ga.) One of these wires was disconnected and after verifying which wire was ground and power with an Ohm meter, I replaced both wires in their entirety and attached one to a clean ground and the other to switch 12VDC. When energized the interior sleeve of this disconnect moves approx. 1/4 inch. I also checked for short to ground within the unit itself while disconnected and checked out good. The problem lies in not being able to locate this part anywhere, (local dealer, auto parts chains, online, anywhere!) Factory manual does not even acknowledge this parts existence. I had them look for parts called, Speedometer Disconnect, VSS, Output shaft sensor, speedometer gear driven set, etc. The gauge itself and cable are readily available, but with the cable hooked up to the gauge and using a drill to operate cable at the transmission end of cable, it will register on the dash. So, I guess my question is can anyone locate this part and describe its function? Is there an alternative method to possibly hook up the existing cable directly to the speedometer gears, and bypass this mystery part all together? New tail shaft with updated gear drive/cable assembly? Thank you in advance for your help.