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Mercedes-Benz C240 4MATIC Questions

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My car would turn over but would not start. I tried about 5 times and it finally started with the check engine light on. It also started perfectly fine two times after that with the check engine light disappearing. I took it to AutoZone to run OBD 2 and the error code was a faulty crankshaft position sensor. I replaced the crank shaft position sensor, only removing the engine cover and the mass air flow sensor for easier access to remove the craft shank position sensor. Now when I start my car it turns on with no check engine light but the RPM's jump to about 2000 and then drop to either 500 or below and then it dies. I am able to keep the engine running if I keep the RPM's high by applying gas. Could it be the Mass Air Flow sensor or something worse?
When I start off the gears shift and jerk a bit then stabilizes. My mechanic thinks there is a transmission problem but would not say what until I leave it with him. Just bought this and the dealer said the jerking is just the nature of this all wheel drive.
HOW DO YOU REPLACE THE PASSANGER SIDE GLOVE BOX
First leak is moderate to heavy, 2nd light to moderate. Received repair estimate for $2550. Received recom to monitor leaks and fluids for now, perhaps repair later. Is this worth a repair considering car mileage and age? Car is well maintained and in general very good condition. Is there an economy repair option?
When i put my car in reverse, it shakes. Also, when i drive, it shakes probably shifting 2 to 3 . P2500 and P2560
To start it won't turn over till the second time I try. Thanks
To start it won't turn over till the second time I try.
Hi guys...
long time no hear...
I've been away for quite some time, wich means that I have been out of troubles, but today my Merc laid down some troubles for me to solve...
after a lovely brunch at the seaside, I sat down on my car and turned on the key...
the car started with no fuss but when I placed the lever on D position, I felt a kick from the transmission, and then I realised that something was wrong...

CEL turned on and there was no info on the Gear Lever position on the dashboard...

the car drove initialy with no big changes, but then the lack of changes made the meaning... the gearbox wouldn't change from 1st gear...

after some checking, I realised that the gear lever was stuck on D or N and there was no going back to R or P, unless I turned off the key and then it would change with no problems...

I then read the codes of DTC and it came like this:

• P2135
Powertrain - Throttle/Pedal Position Sensor/Switch "A"/"B" Voltage Correlation

• P2A00
Powertrain - O2 Sensor Circuit Range/Performance Location Bank 1 Sensor 1

• P2553
Powertrain - Throttle/Fuel Inhibit Circuit Range/Performance

• P0705
Powertrain - Transmission Range Sensor "A" Circuit (PRNDL Input)

• P2226
Powertrain - Barometric Pressure Sensor "A" Circuit

I managed to bring my car back home and it is now safely sitting on my garage, waiting for me to see any meaning on this...

I read in some information and other threads in this forum that some people have experienced similar issues with their gear boxes...

Are there any wise words on this malfunction that I should hear?

Can I look for something in specific before jumping into a carshop and pay quite expensive bills that may come around?

I had my trasmission fluid changed 2 year ago (46.000km) and back then I also changed the pilot bushing that was at the time not leaking but menacing to begin to do so...

since then the car drove quite troubleless... until today...

please give me some help around here... I need your expertise and previous experiences...

cheers...
weak brakes in reverse. all brake pads are new. brakes work fine in forward gear.
88,000 miles. Does not matter how far the wheel is turned.
The oil light comes on quite frequently to add a quart of oil. Is that normal? Its maybe every 6 wks or so.
When I turn off the car and start it again, the gauges work for a minute, then stop working again, but the car still drives. After it sat for about a week, it took many attempts for the key to unlock the door, and when I tried to start it, it did not start. About a week later, the battery died as well.

Also, my mechanic did not do a diagnostic, but he thought that it might be the ignition, so he ordered and installed a new ignition; however, when he attempted to program the ignition with the program key, it did not program. Is my mechanic misdiagnosing my issue? And if so, what could be the issue?
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