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Mazda Tribute Questions

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408
questions

CEL (check engine light)

It happened once before,,approx 2 months ago. this is the 2nd time. The diagnostic ( don't know the code ) but it says it's in the 4th cylinder. Thanks so much for any help!!

the thermostate isn't sticking

It seemed to be running better after changing the fuel filter, but now it just doesn't want to run smooth. Its not all the time but most of the time. What would you do next?

What or how do I fix or repair the problem to stop the sputter and turn the light off?

the vehicle will not start

Vehicle had front pads and rotors at 85K miles now has 108K miles

car will restart but dies when it is put into gear. The car works fine when it is cold or only run for a short time.

Sometimes it runs fine and then starts misfiring. Rain seems to make it worse.

My son's car has been running rough and the engine light is on. Acceleration is very sluggish. The diagnostic report is:
P1406 - problem with differential pressure feedback sensor downstream hose is disconnected or blocked, have checked and no obvious thing found.
Any ideas before we spend a heap of money fixing every other than the problem?
Regards
Sum

I cleared the code once but it returned within 50 miles.

What could be broke and what would be the name of the part?

Took kids to school, worked fine. Came home would not start. Husband jumped started it. Will not stay charged up like no charge in battery? Have been driving it with no major isssues.

car quit running while driving.restarted once or twice.towed to shop,they initially thought timing,major engine prob.finally diagnosed bad ecm n maf sensor replaced both with new parts.still getting code p0102 mass or volume air flow circuit A low. car runs but will occasionally stumble at any speed,under load or not.also will feel like it shuts off for a second at times while driving causing a violent thump from engine mounts

Car dealer stated the above needs to be replaced-- would like to know the estimated cost + labor for these repairs

Problem only when cold. Have friend run codes with his machine and we have replace numerous parts including O2 sensor, vacuum lines, throttle control valve, and new plugs & wires. nothing has solved the problem.

we are getting the run around from the dealership and need second opinions

p0193 code

Today I went over a friends house to check out her car. When I tried to start the car it only continued to crank but no start. Sounds like a normal crank. I checked and verified there is good spark. Fuel pump is running. This leads to my first question. Is there and where is the test port to check fuel pressure? I didn't see anything under hood. I finally got the car started after cranking it four times for about 30 seconds each time. It ran rough and died out. It did this two times then I gave it gas to keep it running. When you press the gas above 3,000 RPM the engine runs smoothly and when you stop pressing the gas it runs rough for about 7 seconds then dies out. Checked for codes with aftermarket scanner and had P0301 Cylinder 1 Misfire stored. Removed intake to access #1 cyl. then swaped coil from #1 cyl. to #6 cyl. and spark plug from #1 cyl. to #5 cyl. Put everything back together and erased codes. Vehicle started and ran rough. Scanned for codes and retrieved a P0306 Cylinder 6 Misfire. Simple enough I need a coil so I thought. Replaced coil in cyl. #6 which was originally in cyl. #1. Ran vehicle and it still runs rough as it did when I first got it started. Scanned for codes again: P0302, P0304, and P0301. Cylinder #1, #2, and #4 misfire. I disconnected cyl. #2 coil wiring and engine idle did not change. I disconnected cyl. #6 coil and engine ran rougher. There is a large hose that goes from the upper intake on right bank side to the lower intake at the rear of engine. Where it attaches to the upper intake it is a rubber elbow which collapses when the engine is running in open loop and closed loop. Checked the hose for blockage and found nothing. Reattached hose at lower intake and sucked on hose (yumm) and noticed no restriction. I was able to get it to not collapse by putting pliers around it and ran engine. Still runs rough but did not collapse. I think it collapses because the rubber is weak. I looked over repair pal's advice colomn and saw a couple places where people mention intake gaskets failing. I sparyed brake cleaner around intake and noticed no change in engine RPM then sparayed carb cleaner around intake and still notice no change in engine RPM. Do you think it's the intake gaskets? Any help would be appreciated and Thank You.

wHEN COLD it hesitate for a while , is hard on gas & DO A WEIRD NOISE WHEN RIDING COLD TILL GET TO NORMAL SPEED.

When I turn my heat on, there is a burning smell coming from the vents.

what is causing my 01 mazda tribute not to go into gear when i apply the brake and start to put in gear.is it something simple to fix or will it cost alot.the problem just occured last night after i came in from work and went to pick my daughter up from work.never had this problem before now

Starts fine and runs through all automatic gears fine until low rpm (like going up hill) in Overdrive. When it shifts down or I turn off O/D, rpm goes up and engine runs fine. Possibly related, while driving about every 5 minutes all gauges goes full max and hold for 3 seconds, then go to zero, hold for 3 seconds, then go back to normal indications. Cruise control does not drop off and there is no change in engine noise. Vehicle operates normally during gauge fluctuations.

I noticed the seat belt restraint does not tighten up.

I changed all four oxygen sensor.
I also only drive in O/D should i not drive that way in the city.

Every morning when the engine is cold and when the engine warms up for the day it runs great

the noise is intermittent

intermittant code p0193, rough idle and engine stumble

Has been leaking very little and was told because most of leak hit oil pan

Car began idling rough today; hesitant ignition. EGR valve was sticking. Have replaced the EGR valve twice in the past year and a half. If I hook a vacuum line to it, I can get it unstuck but after a while it will do it again. No engine light indicating problems with sensors, but then again, the thermostat for temp has been lit for about 5 years even though there is no problem with overheating, mechanic told me at that time that he could run a test at the price of about $80 but that it was a common fault on these cars for the light to be on. Got a rebuilt transmission little over a year ago and that seems to be having some minor hesitation shifting from second to third gear at random times. Ideas? Solutions?