Mazda Tribute Questions

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battery and alternator check out ok

it's only noisy inside the car, it cannot be heard outside the vehicle.

A repair shop found no problem they sprayed carb with spray and it started but not this time has new battery this is 2nd time have 82,000.00 miles on car.

01 Mazda Tribute with a 3.0 V6, FWD. Has an intermittent dying problem. No specific conditions cause this, and it always fires right back up. Usually runs really rough before it tries to die. Also, the odometer blanks out, and the speedometer and tachometer randomly drop to 0 and go back to where they should while driving. All of this is intermittent. Check engine light also comes on and off while this is occuring, so I decided to hook up my scan tool. No current codes for ANYTHING, and during the times the tach and speedo quit working, my tool will not communicate with the vehicle. There are some history codes for the IP Cluster module. They are U1262 - SCP Data Fault for J1850 BUS. And also B1318 - Low Battery Voltage at Module. There is a ground wire attached to the frame just above the firewall that shorted out and has a break in it, and I feel that it may have caused these codes because it has been fine until that wire fried. On the engine side, there are now a few new memory codes... P0352, P0355 and P0356 which are Ignition Coil Primary/Secondary Circuit Fault for B, E and F. P0356 is now "Pending". Any help would be appreciated!

this has happened twice in very heavy rain and also in the carwash. What could be the problem?

I finally decided to take in my 2005 Tribute to the local dealership, and after 2 days they told me the PCM was burned out and I needed to replace it at a cost of $1700. They also said it was a good idea to change out all 6 coils and plugs at a cost on an additional $1300. So I am looking at $3000 in repairs. My question is, is this reasonable costs for these repairs and is it necessary to replace the coils also? Do I have any other options on getting this thing fixed cheaper somewhere else?

I changed spark plugs and coil packs but yet it's still missing and engine light came back on. What can it be?

The engine won't start but it has lights and horn and radio but the SUV is dead it won't start

code shows cylinder #2 misfire, wondering if the valve cover gasket leak has anything to do with the check engine light throwing this code out? Thank you

Suddenly, check engine light, 30 seconds later I pulled over, very rough engine, checked oil, was ok. Tried to drive 11 miles home, power diminished, bad smell.
Mechanic found:
Cat. blown, needed Tuneup, (repl. fuel filter, coil, plugs, wiring, temp. sensor) and Cat. Conv.
Now spent $1500, but with what I have read unsure which way to go now.
Do I replace engine with a reman.$2000 labor $1300 or what? Have a Home Equity Loan for remodeling old house, so can't get a loan for new auto? Please God save me, help me, guide me. Amen. SWF (single white female) and I have tried to take good care of the engine, int./ext. look great! Except failed to get a tuneup at 125k. Replaced Alt. and something that was causing it to 'not breath/intake without balance, but it now seems to to that again, and I read someone's blog it 'collapses' due to weak material?
Car now starts, sounds better, but #2 has 115 press. and #4 125 press, running 'rich' exhaust and smoke comes out the tailpipe. Mech. said it would not have enough power to go up the hills 55 mph here where I live.
Would the new engine fix everthing? Cheap car replacement for $4000, and the stereo is brand new (touch screen, cd/dvd)
Any kind words of advice are appreciated.
(I also think all mechanics should read these blogs every morning for 1 hour)

Power steering was whining and grinding I removed and cleaned the outside of pump then noticed that the pump was spinning freely so I reinstalled the pump and it isn't whining or grinding but their isn't any power steering now. Should I have primed the pump before installation?

THe EGR blew a hole on the side and the DPFE burnt a hole through it, burning the connector. I bough all three new parts, but the cables on the connector are white and the old connector is burnt. I can't tell what cable goes into either in pins 1, 2 or 3. Can anyone help me out, please?


Car was running fine, then one morning it did not want to start, sounded like a weak battery. Took the battery off and took it to AutoZone and they confirmed it was a bad battery so I bought a new one. Still did not start. I was told to change the Crankshaft Sensor since it was getting fire. Still did not start. Fuel Line was pulled, but it appeared fuel was not flowing, so the fuel pump and fuel filter were changed out. It still does not want to start. Was told to push the button on the inertial switch on the passenger side, but it still does not start? It does not should like a starter issue or alternator issue since it is a new battery, so I am stuck. What could be the issue?

Goes up to 4 on rpm gauge before shifting. Was fine driving to work that morning but started on the way home. Brother in law put on diagnostic and says it's not the transmission but a sensor.

My driver's side window (power) has a horrible squeal when it is being closed. It's not as bad going down, but really bad on the way up. I'm not sure if the cold weather has anything to do with it, the door is new as part of an accident repair. Is there any way I can fix/lubricate this myself?

Old battery only running on 12 volts. Replaced it yesterday and it was drained over night. With the old battery it happened four five times and only every other day. Only first thing in the morning (so far).

It has a new CV joint.sounds like its coming from the wheels

2004 Mazda Tribute Question: No Check Engine Light illuminated but when I start my vehicle and it idles and runs fine for one minute. Then when I press the gas it bogs down and will not exceed 3000 RPM. No power when pressing the accelerator, sounds like its not breathing right.

When I come to a stop, my car vibrates while in drive if I shift the transmission to neutral or park the vibration stops.