Mazda Protege Questions

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I have an oil leak in the front left of my 2000 protege. I am taking it in for an oil change but have noticed this leak.

happened after filling up at gas station. Think water in tank.

sounds like its more in front of the vehicle then middle or back. started yesterday around 6 and I gotta drive upnorth 3 hour drive and I don't wanna kill my car so was hoping I could fix it or keep it safe and drive able until tomorrow

Okay, about a month ago I was driving to the store when the electrics started acting up. Every time I braked the speedometer would surge. About a mile later my car completely died. The lights would still work, but the engine wouldn't even crank. Wouldn't jump, had to hook it up to a battery charger and once it was taken off the charger, the battery light would come on. So I got a new alternator and had to wait a few weeks for my friend who's a mechanic to swap it out. That happened this weekend, also changed the alternator belt and accessory belt at this time. The car started and ran fine fine, no lights on the dashboard. However, every so often when I stopped at a stop sign the engine would idle at about 500 rpm, and sound very rough. After about 10 seconds it would go up to about 1500 rpm and sound fine. The second day had the same problem after the car warmed up a little bit. Then that night not only would the idle get very rough, but pulling away from a stop sometimes, there would be almost no power, until the revs hit 3000 and then it would hit in a surge. Finally as I was about a mile away from home the Check engine light came on, and twice it would flash 3 times and then go back to steady on. Since then I have not driven it. I started it once, idle was stable at 2000 rpm and the check engine light was stable.

94 Mazda Protege LX Sedan 1.8L DOHC tuned up, (wires,plugs cap rotor and replaced vacumn hose air intake hose to valve cover) ran great for 2 days. Engine shut down suddenly and no start. No spark, coil ok, no fuel but bypassed system and pump runs great. Tested with test light to neg side of coil while cranking but it does not light up at all. Is the ignition control module bad? in this case that means a new distributor as it is integral to distributor. Am I looking at this right?

1994 Mazda Protege LX Sedan 1.8L DOHC. I just put plugs, wires, cap & rotor on it, changed the oil and replaced a small vac hose (air intake hose to val cover). Ran wonderful for two days and still running great last night pulled out of a parking lot and it just died. No start,towed home started troubleshooting. No Spark and no fuel. Coil had proper resistence as per chilton manual ran test battery positive to neg side of coil,cranked but no light. Also jumped old OBD1 module F/P to ground and relay kicked and fuel pump fired right up. Sooooo now where do I start on the Distributor above. (noticed MIL lamp is not operating as I tried jump 10 pin in diag box to check code as I do not have an OBD1 scanner). All guidance appreciated.

After driving for 20 miles the engine stall. When I check for spark on the spark plug there is non. But the spark comes back after 10 to 20 minutes. What could me the problem?

It has made that since i have bought it, but the owner told me i had to change the bearing. My friends told me it might be a ball joint or tab bushings. it is now broken, it's all inclined on the rear left side and i think something like my shocks are broken, can anyone help me, so i can buy the right pieces for mazda protege 2002 SE. PLEASE HELP

I have a 1994 Mazda DX 1.8. One day while driving car was hesitating off and on from a stop. After a while quit hesitating. Then, after parking and restarting, went for a drive and the car just stopped - died and would not start.
After towing home and testing, there was NO spark, replaced coil - no spark, replaced coil again - no spark, replaced distributor - no spark, replaced TPS, no spark. Just double-checked, gets juice to positive side of coil and juice to positive of distributor. Still NO spark. Tried jumping ten and ground in diagnosis module to get codes, didn't seem to work. (Engine light does NOT come on when ignition is in the ON position) I am stumped. What in the world could it be??

Have changed:

the Coil (Twice, new one)

the TPS (new)

the main relay (new)

the ECU (twice, used)

the distributor with cap and rotor (new).

Both airbags were deployed, there's damage to bumper and frame is bent. How much will it cost to repair the car.

I have a 1998 protege 1.5 litre. Changed spark plug wires and spark plug. About every 5 weeks spark plugs will begin to arc randomly and progressively get worse over the next 3 weeks untill i have to replace them . Had it put on computor and was told plugs are bad. I keep having to replace them . It runs fine after i change them but then starts arcing in the spark plug well. I noticed it is arcing from base of ceramic insulator to the head. Never seen this before but can it get too much voltage or not able to disapate heat fast enough.

My car will not start, spins over just fine, just won't crank. When it happened, the car started like normal, the rpms went up to 1000 for like 1/2 a second when it started, when the rpms dropped back down, it went dead. It's getting fuel, it's firing, replaced the fuel pump, spark plugs, cleaned and charged the battery, checked the vacuum canister for cracks(already had to replace it once), checked for gaps in the breather, checked injectors with a noid light, checked all fuses and relays, checked all the sensors and everything is good. Puzzled on it. Thinking it may have jumped time, any ideas? Thanks

This has happened several times in the past year, ALWAYS when it was driven just a mile or two and then parked for a few minutes. On prior failures, (5 or 6) it has always resolved itself after sitting for 30-60 minutes. Tonight there was still no spark after sitting 75 minutes (temperature about 35 degrees). It started fine this morning at 24 degrees and a few minutes earlier. The other failures were in much warmer weather. Checked spark on both ignition modules - nothing, so it is something further up the line. Sensor? Relay? It has never failed to start when cold, only under the conditions described above. Check engine light has been on forever. The code is "random cylinder misfire". Mechanic has been unable to resolve that one. Clearing the code works for a week or two before it returns.

My mazda etude 1.8 litre sedan 1995 model is very heavy on petrol. It does about 430km on a 50litre tank and I do not know how to fix this problem. I bought it recently and it has had the same consumption since. It has 244000km on the clock. I serviced it recently, changing the spark plugs, oil and air filters but it is still doing 430km on a full tank. The timing belt makes a slight squealing sound and the car sometimes jerks a bit during acceleration when I am driving on the highway. Could this be what is causing the high fuel consumption? What could be causing the jerking and what should I do to get a fuel consumption rate of at least 12km on a litre.

If crank is that worn wouldn't rod knock?

My car is actually a Mazda Lantis, which is similar to the Protege. The problem is very sporadic and has been occuring for just over a year. One minute I'm driving and the engine is fine, then next it starts shaking, sounds very rough and loses power and/or is extremely slow to accelerate. In fact you have to depress the accelerator further down than normal in order to get it to move and it's even worse going up hill; it barely moves. There's a strong gas smell and I've been told it's noticeable to vehicles behind me as well.

As I mentioned, it's very sporadic. When it's misfiring, it can last 5 seconds, 5 minutes or even for the entire drive. The misfiring can go in and out and there doesn't seem to be any particular cause; it happens when it's idling in traffic, going up a hill, driving on flat road. Some times I get out of the car to go to the grocery store or drop off my children, then get back in minutes later and it misfires on starting. Weeks can go by without any problems where the engine is running nicely and then it happens again. Or, as it usually the case, it occurs at such dangerous times as just before you turn into incoming traffic. I've learnt not to take any chances when turning across vehicles or using roundabouts as you never know when it will start acting up.

We've had two diagnostic scans which didn't reveal any codes and I've been informed it could be anything from ignition coils to sensors. I'm extremely frustrated and want to know how to realistically diagnose the problem without randomly (and expensively) changing parts. Thank you for any help you can provide me with.

Just recently bought a Mazda Protege with 158000kms on it. I noticed that there was a ticking sound coming from the engine and my check engine light had come on. The speed of the ticking increases as I accelerate but remains even after the car is back in idle. I figured it may just need oil/oil change, but was wondering if there are any other possible causes.

i recently imported a mazda 323 from UK. after trunning for a few kilometers the car starves fuel and will not pick up speed. the traction control lights come on. it will not do this in the morning and evening when the temperatures will be low. i am in Zimbabwe

Had car since new. Plugs are white with no oil residue. No leaks. New pcv valve.
Using 1 qt in less than 1000 miles. Not smoking. What could the problem be?

I need to replace my turbine input sensor and cant find in please help.....

we tried bleeding by pushing in and out the wont get pressure....clutch still no pressure.

What do you mean tgat the Question details must be at least 10 characters long?

Last week after leaving walmart i went to start car and it wouldnt! A guy checked it out put in a new thermostat and temp sensor on, car started! Sunday morn he put a new motor mount and O2 sensor on my car. Went to drive off, it drove maybe 2 feet and cut off. Temp gauge started back going straight to hot. It was on E, put gas in it and temp gauge still going straight to hot and wont start?!?!?!?

ignition coil and do fire. what can be the cause of that

when i turn the ignition on the temperature gauge goes straight to "H" and the car want fire. it turns over but it acts just like it would if it wasnt getting gas. when it first started you could turn the switch off then back on and it would be fine but only run about 35 to 40 secs then cut off and temp gauge would go to hot. Ive replaced the temperature sensor and also the thermastat. Idk what else to do?

....So when I got to my exit and stopped at the toll the car stalled and wouldnt start back up...put a gallon of water in the radiator....nothing.....oil looks good...can someone please tell me what it could be?

I've been told that I have a tare in both my right & left cv joints. Another mechanic has told me that both drive shafts are bad (are these the same things?). I've also been told that my left wheel bearing NEEDS to be replaced. Can anybody tell me how much it would cost to have these repairs done for me??? (And whether or not the cv joint and the drive shaft are the same things?)

They look like regular V belts,but I'mtold they are serpentine

Drove through a puddle a couple of days ago while it was raining and the following day, when I went to turn my car on, it shakes excessively. Can still drive it but just doesn't feel right.

Need to know if it is done in 2 or 3 steps.