Mazda B3000 Questions

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The temp outside was 57 degrees. Is this unusual.

The 01 B3000 has more than 250.000 miles on it.

When I go to start the truck I can turn the key to the on position and push the clutch in and it will start and every time while driving when I push clutch in to shift the starter will kick in. I have checked the starter relay and all fuses and all is good there need to know where to go from there

It's a automatic transmission and am sure it has something to do with linkage. I did find a screw on floor board but my son threw it away I gues

Parted the Mazda B3000 Sat. at noon it ran great. Got in it today Tues. and on acceleration I noticed a skip and lack of power. Now we did have a lot of rain Sun. and Mon. and truck was out side?????

the ignition turns and the lights all work bit not the starter

My battery light came on. Had it tested along with the alternator and starter, and the starter and alternator came out to be good. But the battery needed to be replaced so I had it replaced. Well this morning the battery light came on again, so what could be the problem.

It doesn't matter if I drive 5 miles or 30 miles, if I stop and turn off the truck on the second stop it won't start. Sounds like not getting fuel. If I let it set for two hours, it starts right up. Spark plugs and wires under a year old. Fuel pump three years old. I never let tank get under half full. As long as I only stop once in a half an hour time, I am ok. No codes showing up.

Replaced plugs wires cap roter now coil still no spark

Started twice today. The third time it would crank but would not start. Let set for a couple of hours then tried again and still crank but would not start.

The wire starts from around the battery and runs under the truck. It pulled out of plug, but I don't know where it plugs in. Help

first time this broke it only had 52000 miles on it just breaks one tooth off stops running dead

I thought I was leaking coolant from the water pump. When I warmed it up to check it wouldn't leak. So I drive it around for 20 min. Nothing.
I have a ride to someone had to get on free way for 10 min. There and back and a trip to orielly and there I checked but nothing.
Oh the way it off orielly I noticed the leak again. It wasn't from weep hole. I checked timing cover but no visible signs.
It looks like its coming from crankshaft. Is that possible?

But when I finally got it to leak again

The battery is hot, headlights work, inside lights work. there is no no sounds from the starter. Someone said the ignition switch is bad.

Let tHe truck sit for a few hours and it will restart with no problems. Have replaced the camshaft sensor. Problem still is there.

Usually after it has run awhile and you stop some where and turn the engine off. when you start again then the RPMS drop to around 5-6 hundred every time you come to a stop.AC will not cool properly. Turn AC off and drive awhile and problem usually stops for awhile.

I accidently touched the starter electrical contact with my metal oil filter wrench and it arched. I replaced the starter relay but there is still no power to the starter, engine will not crank over. I think I tripped the security lock out and would like to know how to reset the security system so the truck will start. P.S.I have checked all of the associated fuses. When I hold the key on the security Icon on the dash blinks fairly fast.

Current codes are P0301, 302, 303, 1121 and now O2Sensor1 Bank 1. Have replaced plugs, wires, coil pack, tps, and injectors on cylinders 1-3. Compression, fuel pressure good no vacuum leaks.

The truck was running alright when it broke down on my wife - accelerator stopped working, power steering went out, and oil gauge was bouncing up and down all over the place. The truck did start a couple times after that, and ran fine for about twenty minutes. Now, it'll crank but it won't start. Guy at Advanced Auto checked alternator, battery, and I'm pretty sure the fuel pump, and they seemed OK. Has anyone else had similar problems?
The check engine light had been coming on routinely, but it was always "emissions leak" or whatever, and I assumed that was due to a new fuel cap. Someone mentioned a possible "idle sensor" issue because the A/C seemed to make it worse. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

It has a rough idle loss if power and diagnostics say it has primary or secondary coil and 1 &5 are misfiring I changed coil plugs and wires with no help. Codes 301

the truck was doing fine then the next day went to turn it on to head for work and it wouldn't start at all. this is the first time it did this. i had a mechaniccheck it out and he couldn'tfind the problem either. idk what else to do. help me.

I have just replaced Rotor, cap, plug wires, & plugs. Helped a little, but not enough.