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Mazda B3000 Questions

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304
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I was driving down the road headed home when I noticed a light sounding knocking noise that knocked faster when I sped up and slowed when I slowed down. At home I put my truck in neutral and revved up the motor and the knocking noise went up with my rpms. It seems to becoming from around flywheel, clutch, pressure plate area. It has a brand New flywheel and pressure plate they were replaced about a month ago and everything has been running smoothly besides it grinds shifting into 2 gear which started right after I replaced everything. Any ideas? Also if it helps diagnose the issue the slave cylinder has been replaced 4 times in 3 years. Once with me and 3 times with the previous owner

I am a Saturday mechanic. My truck has been on the fritz for a few months now so I let it sit for about 3 months with not starting it.

I had problems with my truck running rough and a cylinder misfire. I replaced the dist. cap and plugs and cables but still giving a misfire. I also had chocolate milk in my oil which I believed was a leaking head gasket. I put a fresh oil change in and still problems.

Today I decided to work on it 3 months later. I was planning on using Blue Devil head gasket sealer. First I did a radiator flush with prestone flushing agent and water. After 30 minutes of driving it around and letting the engine reach temperature, the truck is running like the day I bought it. No more white smoke, no water in my tailpipe, no idling rough, no misfire, and no check engine light. Was this a cure? or am I just driving a ticking time bomb?

I plan on taking out the water and flushing agent and filling it back up with 50/50 solution later on today.

Coil, plugs,fuel pump,

eough shift speedo not working od light flashing

Was good for a day, now doing it again. Any help on where to go next?

Steady throttle. If you punch down it will backfire and then accelerate

Like I said, it runs and starts up perfectly once the engine is warmed up. If I turn the truck off and go to start it up half an hour later, it will start up with no problem. But if I wait too long, it gives me trouble. It just clicks and clicks each time I turn the key, and I have to turn the key at least 10 times very fast and hold it on the last turn before it wants to start cranking. When it clicks like this, the dash lights and headlight dim. The battery was tested and is supposedly fine, the alternator isn't an issue because the battery tested at 100% and the gauge says it's charging. The starter was replaced, as well as the battery cables, but I still have the issue. It didn't start doing this until I drove the truck for 8 or so hours straight when I went out of town. I honestly have no idea what else I can check. It takes a jump, and everything points to the battery, but the battery tested fine, and I don't want to replace the battery if I don't need to. What is wrong with my truck?

When you turned the engagement switch on you could here it click now nothing. could it be a solonoid, fuse or switch?

Battery is new. Started 2 months ago fine.

Replace the camshaft senor, ERG valve, cleaned the mass air sensor and throttle body, changed the transmission fluid.

Worked last week. Now 4 wheel dash light will not come on and no 4 wheel

Starts easily after initial start No check eng light

there is no door key with the truck.the only way to get into the locked truck is with the electronic door fob. did this vehicle come with a door key separate from the ignition key. the ignition key does not work in the doors. i would like the option of unlocking the vehicle manually in case the fob malfunctions. thank you for your time.it also has an alarm installed on it.

steering wheel air bags did not deploy

I replaced the charcoal canister, vacuum switch, EGR, oxygen sensor and the gas cap to no avail. The check engine light has returned. I had the Knetchs sales associate again verify the code and it is again 1443. Problem is the computer is an idiot and cannot distinguish the difference between one failed component to another.

I just received my truck back after getting a new engine and transmission. The fob was not working, but the shop said that it just needs to be reprogrammed by putting the key in the ignition and turning it on and off 8 times within 10 seconds, leaving it on run, then pressing the lock button on the remote within 20 seconds, then turning the ignition off. Well, I tried it, and it didn't work. I locked the truck and went to bed. This morning I went to unlock it with the key, and it wouldn't unlock! What do I do?

I drove my truck to the gym and when it was time to go I put the key in the ignition and turned it. Nothing happened I pressed the clutch all the way to the floor and then I tried again. Nothing. Long story short I took it to Mazda they told me it was the PATS module and told me it could cost anywhere from 700 to 1200$ To fix it. I want to know has anyone else ran into this problem?

Starts fine, runs smooth only hesitates at under 45 mph or like in 4th gear or overdrive, other than that runs fine