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Hyundai Sonata Questions

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Price to include towing. Need done ASAP
can any of you please tell me how I can find out for positive sure,if my sonata has a filter in transmission? Called local Hyundai and parts guy says it doesn't have a filter,service guy says it has a internal filter. We want to be 100% sure of what it has and if we can change it,DIY,hard to get any true info. Hyundai dealer wants over $18 a quart for there tranny fluid! How crazy is that!
Does front and back need done?
of just a D. If I go to manual and try to upshift (+), it won't. If I hold it in the downshift (-) position it will shift into all the gears properly. When I slow down it will down shift properly. Transmission runs smoothly. The check engine light is not on and there are no codes that Advance Auto could find. Please help.
please go back and look at my reply- we started question 12-16-14, you answered 12-16-14 at 21:52
1997 hyundai Sonata 3.0 IAT code problem
Added again more info today 12-29-14
Hubby wants to know if he should change the filter and fluid in this,because of color,it isn't pink. It has low miles,so assuming lots of stop and go driving,as is what I will be doing. We just bought this,traded the camry for it,hoping for it to last many many more miles. should this be part of regular maintenance? Should we be concerned at all because of the color of the fluid? runs and drives great! Thanks.
When I run the car idle in cold weather the heater blows cold air, even when Engine temp is up to normal. When I accelerate or run at speed the heater blows hot air. When stopped at a light it begins blowing cold air again. Was told it was the heater core which is a very spendy repair. Could it be anything else causing this.?
I replied Dec 21 at 10:07. My first discription is Dec. 16 at 15:28 and you replied same day at 21:52.
checked vacume, after engine warmed up, idle 700 rpm- vacume 15.5 steady needle. Ran poorly on cold start, kept rpm's at 2500 until warm, then it would idle on its' own. Cleared P0110 IAT, drove 6 miles on slight incline, engine would miss erratically under a load, smooth down hill. Rechecked codes- P0110 IAT, ran at idle- reset idle speed to 800 rpm, ran for 10 minutes at idle...THEN idle dropped, engine ran poorly, tried to accellerate, acted as if running on 4 cyl., hard to rev up, won't hold idle- would die without throttle. This is repeatable- after car has run for 20 to 30 minutes and has been test driven for codes and performance check, would let idle- performance appeared normal. Then as if something overheated or 'switched off', suspect partial electrical failure to engine controls, would drop idle and die if not reved up- and revs weak and not all cyls, would drop revs on its own if held at 3000 rpm. Can restart and start the process all over if car sits for a while, (cool down). does not over heat.
Removed ECU and inspected for 'burn or hot' spots on grid- no visual signs of failure. Grounds at ECU good.
Appears to have a partial failure issue on cold start, engine would run better warm, misses on load, then after 20 minutes-a performance control would break down to a full failure.
Again, new dist cat, rotor, wires, plugs, MAF unit (w/ bar. and IAT). Retired auto tech 40 yrs exp. and fustrated!
Did tune up-Dist. cap/rotor/wires/plugs.96k miles. Ran 1 week ok then dead hole miss. Compress check-ok, rechecked wires, cap, rotor, plugs-ok. #5 is dead miss. Replaced 1 injector #5. Runs on all 6 but poorly at idle and lower RPM's. Has IAT code and bank 1 misfire. Replaced the MAF with new. Still has IAT and bank 1 codes. My manual shows 3 connector for early ecu's, and large single connector for later model ecu's. But I have 4 connector ecu. I am inspecting continuity on the 2 IAT wires. Any other suggestions and wiring diagram for a 4 connector ecu? Alread did check for vacume leaks. And has always had lite ruff idle from egr switch-put BB in vac line to EGR and passed smog-idle tolerable.
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