Honda Civic Questions

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Believe around wheel around right side. Been making a tic tic tic when quietly for a little bit now when apply brakes make very loud tic tic sound wish I could post recording eh. Just had new front brake installed not to long ago but quiet tic tic was before that. When ever I was it to make noise for someone to hear it won't it just does it usually when I first drive car..
The pipe that runs from catalytic convertor to the muffler is cracked and needs replacement. I was quoted from my usual mechanic $318.66 ($224.00 for the Intermediate pipe) + gaskets, belt kit and then $52.00 for labor. This is in NJ and I have an EX model. Does this sound fair or high?
I already changed #4 coil and fuel injector and all spark plugs. The check engine light came off and I drove for 14 miles before it came back on.
I checked compression and tightened all valves. Check engine light came off but the car had some pull back during the test drive (no shaking from the engine) but the check engine light came back on. Ran computer diagnostics which indicated that the multi-misfires on cylinders 1,2, and 4.
I'm thinking that the fuel filter or pump may need to be changed...want to get an outside opinion before investing another $300+ into this fix.
secondary wire ti test if there is negative the blowing will works what should i do or to check the negative.
start again but will notstart ,i try to check the fuses all works and the key must show in the panneloard will not appear
And spitting what sounds like air from under the hood and it looses power when climbing hills and when the RPM REACH ABOUT 4 THOUSAND.
It starts sputtering as the RPMS raise to get the the speed you need in mid of the gears that I need to get on the freeway

ever since my hood flew up on the freeway and slammed hard on thw window for some reason my windows are not rolling down or working at all. i checked relays and fuses and they seem to be good. i just dont know what to do
recently I have changed rear wheel hose and gets breaks service done after that I m observing that abs and parking break lights gets on after few minutes drive and it gone when we switch off car for few minutes ....
Air cools quickly, but then cooling drops out. On mild days, it comes and goes. On really hot days, it only gets cool again after the car is left off for a while - at least 30 minutes. No problem with fans, dealer says there is plenty of coolant and everything checks out, but they have not yet driven it to see the problem.
The fan it is not working at any speed nor I hear the compressor clutch engaging. I will check the fuses but I am thinking it is something more serious. There is not cool air or hot air. Defroster is not working either.
Just told that I need struts (front) & shocks (rear). What else might be headed my way, in the way of major expenses? Car has 110,000 miles, and has no known problems.

I've noticed lately that the SRS seatbelt/airbag light randomly comes on when I start driving and stays on. If I turn the car off and back on the light comes on for about 5 seconds as normal and then it goes off. I recently bought this car from the dealer (a week ago) and I brought it back to them in order to scan the SRS codes. Here are the SRS codes that they gave me and the VIN # of my car. They told me this could be happening because they power wash the inside of the car. Aren't they liable for this?

VIN #JHMFA16866S011221

SRS codes: DTC 11-1X (11-10 to 11-19, 11-1A to 11F)
DTC 11-4x (11-40 to 11-49, 11-4A to 11-4F)
Just put a new alternator has new battery car still not idling correctly. Has all new coils and spark plugs. When put car from park to drive or drive to park car bogs down idle drops real fast same if you come to a stop.
They worked 1 morning then just stopped working. . I can control radio manually except the back lights out. And the steering wheel control module for the radio stopped working the same time.. my question is what the problem. I can't find a fuse.
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