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When trying to start it, it doesn't click. The car stalled today in second gear while making a turn. Seemed to cut.out. It took 6 to 7 tries to get it started. What could be the problem?
The whining noise has been around for a while. We had the A/C compressor and condenser replaced recently. The car isn't overheating, but white smoke comes out of the engine compartment and there's a bad smell - kinda like coolant.
The "check engine" wrench is lit on the dashboard. Looks like we have only 5% of oil life left. Do we just need an oil change??
This is a preventive maintenance question.
If I add a ($30 fuel treatment, BK44) IT improves?


Anybody who knows how to uninstall step by step on a liftgate of a 2013 honda pilot ex-l 4wd.any advice will help. Thanks
Dealership is attempting to attribute this on the type/brand of gasoline, but that hasn't changed in the 5+ years I've owned the van. The wife is a creature of habit and nearly always buys gas and washes car at the same service station. Dealer also trying to point to my spouse... that her driving habits have changed? Don't tell her I said so, but she's actually a good driver. Smooth on gas and the brake...Not a speed demon nor a grandma behind the wheel. She's the only driver of this car. This MPG decline coincides perfectly with the recall repair. What do I say to get the dealership to take a thorough look at their recall work to find the issue?
power comes back on after awhile from doing nothing but look at wires and check some fuses last time it happened was about 6months ago befor now and i just open and slammed the door a few times the first time
timing belt went while driving car on highway. Belt ,water pump and replacement belt changed. Timing is set correctly, , ignition coil replace but car will crank but will not start up. Wondering if internal engine damage was done. Is there any way to find his out.
No apparent leaks and car was previously owned by a chick so it's probably been this way a while. Checking fluid with engine off fluid shows about 1/4 inch over the full mark
I was driving home the other day and I noticed a puff of smoke come from under the hood, then all the lights on my dash died. Temp guage, Tachometer, fuel guage, and also my power windows went out. I was in traffic, and couldn't pull over to investigate, but the car didn't die on me. Later, I checked the fuses and found one blown for the car lighter. I replaced it anyway, but that didn't help my problem. I've been driving like this for 3 days, bought the Haynes manual for my model,but this issue isn't addressed in the manual. Can anyone give me an idea of what this might be?... I don't have the money for a professional mechanic.
I purchased a new 2012 Honda Ridgeline and I am the only driver. It has just under 30,000 miles and I was due for oil change so I also had the 30k service done. Before the service I started feeling a slight vibration when braking; like the front rotors might be slightly warped. The Honda dealer service dept. checked and told me the rotors were warped and could be turned. The brake pads were still in very good condition so there wasn't a safety issue. I asked how the rotors could be warped so soon and was told they see this happen even at less mileage and is usually due to driving habits. Also said it is caused by excessive heat. Most of the 30k miles were highway and country roads. Only recently have I started driving to a new job where I'm in "aggressive" driving conditions where I might be going 70mph and then need to slow down quickly. A couple of times I've needed to break hard; but not lock your brakes hard. So I guess I'm wondering if just a few hard braking incidents could cause my brakes to warp? I'm also curious if others have seen this with their Ridgelines or other Honda models. It just seems to me that the rotors shouldn't warp this quickly and if there is a problem with excessive heat, is there another type of brake pad that will not produce as much heat in mostly "normal" driving conditions. Thanks!
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