Honda Questions

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I've had this car for 6 years, the D4 light started blinking when I would fuel up, I would sit at the pump from 30min to an hour flipping my ignition back and forth and taking battery cables off to reset the computer, it would eventually crank. Well it seem to have gotten worse, first thing to come to my mind was my fuel pump was going out, plus when the D4 would blink I would not hear the fuel pump. Well I got a fuel pump, we drop the tank and the fuel pump was fine but it wasn't getting power like it was supose to. Fixed that and the light is still blinking, will turn over but will not start.

car wont go into any gear shifter moves thru all gears on shifter but nothing happens car will go into gear only when trans is cold but for only for about a few minutes could thid be a linear soleniod prob car has 250,000 ml

wont run,fuel pump works in crank mode,wil not run if not in crank mode,changed fuel pump relay

was here a few weeks ago with problem of car not starting but was cranking. raiderron figured out the problem. ecu was bad. thank you raiderron. now we have replaced it and the capacitor blew in new unit. which circuit affects the capacitor enough to make it blow so quickly?

Is there a warning sign on dash board to let me know?

The reverse on my Odyssey will work for a period of time and then won't. Then all of a sudden out of the blue it will work again. I took it to a transmission shop and they checked for error codes, but there was none. The shop suspected that it might be an electrical problem, possibly something with sensor. Any ideas?

My wipers stopped moving but my wiper motor works.

old compressor got a hole in it

So my 94 accord ex failed a smog this mornin I and i don't know what to do on the paper it just says that ignition timing b09 failed .. tanr the guy said it releases too much smoke the ASM results were G POL what is this?....

The blower fan on the 2004 Honda Accord suddently stopped working - want to check the fuses first - where are they

just replaced fuel pump asmb. found trash and sand in tank .. cleaned tank and use fuel system cleaner

Had a/c refrigerant recharged and a/c relay replaced three weeks ago when the a/c only blew cool air after about 10 minutes of driving.

Now a/c blows air, it's cold, when the car is first turned on then it stops. When I crank it up to high, i hear, i think, the compressor and blower motor rev-up and then it blows cold air.

manual transmission on my lx has a bent end on the shift cable on the linkage to the tranny.trying to remove it for repair or replacement i am having trouble with the plastic twist lock thing holding the left cable to the sift lever/cable bracket inside the cab. i try to twist it counterclockwise and slide it through the opening on the side, but it wont budge. its removed from the lever. any tips so i dont break the finger tabs trying?

I'll replace the driver's side, then a couple months later, the passenger side, then 6 months later, the driver's side again. It's never ending. I've had the car for 12 years and it seems lately the problem is getting worse. I only drive this car about 3000 miles per year, so it can't be over-use. I've used different brands of lights. No difference. Has anyone else had this problem or know why it's happening? Thank you.

Shuts off while making a stop at the traffic light or stop sign and when making a turn that requires the wheel to be locked

the mechanic told me he suspects that the threads on the oil pan are wearing out and he is afraid to disconnect the plug until he can be sure he can get an oil pan (costing about $400) so he told me to bring the car in on another day when I would have time to leave it for a day or two in case he needs to change the oil pan. should i take it to the dealer or let this mechanic (who is usually honest) do the work?

Engine squeels slightly when the car is in neutral and high pitched squeel disappears with the use of belt dressing. If the car is in gear, noise returns and increases with increased RPM. The car has 185K miles on it. Timing belt was replaced at 125K. When noise first appeared AC was NOT on-rarely use AC.

dignostic code p1259, check engine light came on 3 days ago. when i go up to about 4000 rpm in first, then shift to second car seemed to lose power.

Could it be the PC valve and what other problems could it just had a head job not too long ago also the check engine light is on

it sounds like a loud whine especially in the morning

Car can crank normally but won't start.

It has done this for 'bout 4 days when I finally pulled the filter can and took a look for vac leaks, carb probs, etc...
My choke was propped open by someone, I knew this. My father removed the wire propping it and we put some se@-fo@m in the gastank, then spray carb with cleanr/lube stuff. I have only ran it 'bout 10-15 mins since. I will runnit today for awhile.

I just replaced the battery, and everything seemed to work ok, except all lights on the car (dashboard, turn signals) all continue to blink even with the engine off and key out of the ignition. I had to disconnect the battery to make it stop. The engine runs fine, turn signals work when pressed, so do hazard lights and all other electrical components work ok otherwise.

Anybody have any idea what this is about?

The car sputtered till it stopped all together. It will turnover no problem but will not crank. I checked fuses but i think it is the fuel pump.

may not do it for a week or a day .after it dies engine turns over but won't start . several minutes later will start but feels like it has a rev limiter at 3500 rpm. after cooling runs fine again

my check engine light came on..had it red and the guy said the code was tcc. what causes that problem and how can it be fixed?

The check engine light on my 89 CRX recently started coming on, usually after I've been driving it for awhile. When I got the chance I checked what the code was and it was 12. After doing some looking I found out that its the EGR Lift Sensor, but I don't know what that means for my car. How will that affect my car and how can it be fixed?

when its on, it is cold,, but doesnt stay cold,, when it comes back on,,you can feel the engine like,, strain then its cold,, but not for long,,

this is a repair question for a BMW bike

I understand it is easy to change and would love to attempt it myself. If a diagram can be provided that would be great, but I'll take what I can get thanks.