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GMC Yukon Questions

Get answers to questions about your GMC Yukon at RepairPal. Find solutions, diagnose problems and get back on the road.

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It makes a grinding, louder than if it were pads it also feels like something is a loose and wants to fall from up under the car when I drive it

I've never had a problem with my a/c until I picked it up from the repair shop this past week. My 2005 Yukon has the Auto Tri-Zone A/C & Heat feature. I took it into dealership to have the 3-2 solenoid they said the hole casing/harness had to be replaced in the transmission which I don't know about but anyway I had them replace the filter. My Yukon has 105000 miles on it. I didn't want them to replace the fluid because nothing was wrong with it and I thought it would cause more problems so they took half out so they could do the repair and then refilled and that was all. Now the front A/c in my Yukon does not function right. the back works just as it always has and it very cold and is working properly. When the front does work it works at all levels (can be turned high and low speed) and is very cold as usual but doesn't always turn on and once the driver side vent didn't work but all other vents worked. when it does eventually decide to work as I'm driving in the 100 degree weather it comes on full blast on auto and I can then turn it down and direct the air flow from auto to blow through the vents and the floor board vents as well. When I called to let the dealership know that they needed to fix the a/c that they must have hit something they told me it would cost me 300 for them to look at it and could cost additional in parts and labor to fix. I was floored. Can someone please tell me if this was just a bad timing for me or did the repair shop do this? I kind of feel as though I'm getting overcharged but if not then I'm willing to pay. I just forked out $800 for the 3-2 solenoid and filter replacement.

The noise happens when turning, parking and backing up. Seems noise is around torsion bars.

Dealer is quoting possibly 3gs

The oil level is always full but the oil pressure gauge is always fluctuating between 20 and 40. None of the dash lights are on. So I don't know what to do. The tapping sounds a bomb ticking.

Fight if I'm driving it will not let me shift into 4th gear it shaved down into low gear

It just started one day truck was running great and then it felt like I was running out of gas and had to be towed home the check engine light went off once and drove good again and the it started up.but when push gas it sputtered and back fired

I have replace the plug wires the timing cover gasket the front seal the rear seal two coolant lines that were leaking on the number 3 plug on the right side of the motor causing it to fall out replaced at it's ran fine but it's been a week to the day and I have no oil in my truck already

I can press the break a couple of times then it goes to the floor then light comes on....

Im trying to replace the radio (6 cd changer, bose, xm hookup) but when i took it out the panel, powercord seems to not be removable from the radio and feeds into the car. Does anyone know how to replace this type of radio? all the other online forums say it supposed to just come out

During the winter I had heater on low and all of a sudden it turned up to high by itself. I couldn't turn it off for like a week and a half and then it stopped working. I am wondering what the problem might be, I checked the fuses and they were all good.

I have changed the fuel pump, fuel filter, the fuel relay switch, which gets really hot for some reason, changed the EGR valve. I took it into a mechanic and they thought it was a vacuum leak, and they said they checked it all and thought they found one. They called me and said it hasn't stalled and think its fine. Went and picked it up and I wasn't even a block away and it stalled as I was driving, had to pull over(keep in mind still has power, pulled over put in park then started it back up and it started. Drove it home no issues, drove it the next day and same issues..... Tried troubleshooting it myself again, looked at the vacuum diagram and it showed they had the hoses switch for the one going to the fuel tank. So I switched them, drove it for two days and it was fine. Then today it was back to same issues but much worse, just be driving along and rpm drop to 0 then it stalls out and have to pull over, sometimes it will start right back up, but today it just wasn't happening.... Any idea's, thoughts, would be greatly helpful, just don't have the money to take it into a mechanic, pretty good with vehicles and have worked on a few, but this one has me so confused.....

My truck won't take gas. Replaced canister purge valve, solenoid under hood near intake & fuel cap, finally took to shop & they replaced fuel vapor canister & blew out all the lines. Still NOTHING after all of that.
The fuel tank pressure sensor above the gas tank has not been replaced as of yet.
Any input? What good is his "New state of the art diagnostic station"???

All doors are closed

Left work truck was fine stopped at store came out started it up and I lost powersteering and brakes are hard. Thats when i seen the return hose to the gear box was off. I replaced the power steering pump and the Hyrdro-Boost. Tried to bleed the hydro-boost but nothing comes from the return hose. I believe there is high pressure on both sides of gear box not allowing flow or there is blockage in line or a seal has failed somwhere. Please help.

I turn the selector to either 4 auto, 4 hi, or 4 lo. The indicator light will continually flash and I hear a click like the transfer case is shifting but will not actually engage. I have tried in park, in neutral, slowly rolling and even at moderate speed (30mph).

car is off. Is there some button or something that will turn them off when the car is not running? Of course the battery goes dead. Not sure of the year, can't find any papers or manual for this car in the glove department.