GMC Yukon XL 1500 Questions

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When it acts up it starts off in 3rd gear engine light comes on codes are for the electrical sensors but if you reset the codes it drives and shifts fine, and if the engine light is on going though the gears manually works fine, electrical I know but where to start?

Should I bite the bullet and R&R for $3500 or diagnose for possible trans cooling line obstructions??

I took my yukon to have it smogged and it passed but did not pass the visual due to missing air injection pump, took it to have it fixed and was told it does not require one, that only some models do

Please help me

that fuss box has been replaced. the switch in side turns off everything but headlights.

I've changed my hydrolic booster my master cylinder brakes rotors and it still locks up on me

Check engine light keeps going off code P300 & p0172 & 175, I have replaced the spark plug wires, coil and spark plug for the number 3 cylinder. The light stayed off for about a week, which is the longest it has stay off in 3 months so I thought I had it fixed, but this morning it went off again. Same code

Every single time I turn my steering wheel there is a continuous popping sound coming from the rear end of the passenger side rear axle, what does that mean exactly I am not a mechanic needing some help if possible.

What years are called All wheel drive vs. 4wd?

Just had Transmission complete referbished

The problem happens everytime i drive it. The battery goes dead fast . Maybe it might last 2 to 3 weeks. It also makes a sound like a transformer [ like the cartoon when they change into something else. When making a sharp turn it shakes . It doesn't matter left or right. There are 24 inch rims on the vehicle. Thank you.

2005 Yukon XL Denali is losing power once t/c light comes.the problem occur between the speed of 45- 80

Checked fuse and relays still no low beams

How do you change the transmission dipstick tube

Car sounds good runs good just want move even when you put it in drive

It started acting up all of a sudden. It has 205K miles on it. I changed the fuel pump 50K miles ago. was working fine then all of a sudden when I put the car in gear it just hesitated. I was able to drive it home but when I pushed the peddle to the floor it would stall. It hesitates to start but once it does it idles fine but when I press the peddle down it stalls and some times it sounds like its choking or back fires.

And there have been times when I pull out the keys, think the car is turned off and it's not because the battery ultimately dies and the next morning I have to jump my car (if there's another around).

Just had the Pittman arm and idler arm changed because of a clicking noise when turning the steering wheel

Car still runs, but afraid to cause more problems with driving the car. No error or diagnostic codes show up even with a scan done. I did change rims without tire sensor monitors so that light stays lit on the dash of course. Passenger side headlight became intermittent so I put in a new light, put new taillight bulbs in 2 sockets that were blown out.

So, we got the truck used from a GMC executive who had it for a company car. It only had 40,000 miles on it when we got it. About 2 years after we got it, the back wiper, seat heaters, needle in 1 of the little circles on dash, and 2 lights on steering wheel all stopped working. Then, we started having random thing go wrong here and there. Since then, we have gone through about 5 car batteries and sometimes, at the most random times, the truck won't start and needs to be jumped. Also, our keyfob(sp?) stopped working..both of them. We have been to numerous shops, including the dealership and no one can find anything wrong with our truck. They hook it up, nothing shows anything is wrong. They have pulled the seats out to see about the heated seats and somehow got the passenger one to work again, but only on the butt..not the back and they said all they did was pull the seat out and put it back in! Now, we are wondering if it all goes back to the keyfobs dying?? Could that be the case? Because sometimes I can't unlock/lock my car doors with the button on the door so, all the kids have to crawl through the drivers door, or sometimes a random door won't unlock or a random window won't go up or down. All seems to happen within a few days of my alarm going off when I use the key to unlock the drivers door. So...could the alarm system be draining the battery or could it be causing the other electrical issues? Or could it be something is messed up because we aren't using the remotes? I have seen a lot of various forums about battery issues, but I have yet to encounter anything like what I struggle with my truck. I would say 98% of the time, my truck is a tank and I can live without a remote, rear wiper, seat heaters, etc....I don't even mind if the battery needs to be jumped occasionally, I am just wondering if it all could be related.

Changed bulbs and no lights

in a bad snow storm snow broke a cable under SUV since the 4wd went out . can I just replace cable or do I have to replace more then that

Any ideas on how to fix this would be appreciated