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GMC Yukon Denali Questions

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I have a 2006 GMC Yukon XL Denali
I have loud knocking from my engine after filling up with gas from a 7 eleven. Before I put that gas in everything was fine. After filling up the next morning when I started up my car it started knocking. Then the check engine light came on indicating a misfire in cylinder 4. The knocking gets louder as I accelerate. I have checked the spark plug and cleaned the rockers and lifter tubes. It still knocks and check engine light is still reading misfire cyl 4
I'm not sure if the denali I bought used, has all the cats it's supposed to have. I live in Cali. and am having a hard time smogging it. Thank you in advance for your help
Tried to make to get gas, cut off at light didn't make it no gas. I then
you can touch buttons and they don't turn on. both front passenger and driver side. along with back seat heated seats.
the light with the little person sitting in a seat with air bag in front of it. has been on since I purchased the car.
I replaced rotors, upper control arm, pitman arm, idler arm about 1000 miles/6 months ago. Replaced brake master cylinder about 9 mos ago. Replaced power steering hose (turned engine on in process / degreased after replacement).
Immediately after degreasing, serpentine squealing warranted replacement of belt, idler & tension pulleys. A day or so after replacing the belt & two pulleys, I noticed idling mph impeded and coasting distance to stop affected. Total of 2 miles driving over the next two days and I brakes were engaged to the point that I chose to drive in 1st gear for the two blocks to my house. Replaced caliper at the suggestion of my auto parts sales/service rep. Brakes were fine for about ten pushes and, then, locked up again. Both sides smoking in the cold air (and smell of overheated pads big time). Frustrated and am praying for some guidance to most logical order / procedure to troubleshoot the source(s) of this problem. Thank you in advance for your consideration.
the defrost comes on but wont blow if u change to feet or anything els the light flash then all will shut off or do nothing at all not sure if its electrical or something with the blower motor . the back heat does blows but only cold the the truck is throwing a miss fire at 4 and a o2 sensor
When readiness monitors reach 100% ready, ses light comes back on and throws codes po420&po430.could timing issue throw these codes or does it have to be bad cats?
I've repaired & replaced many parts,to find later those parts were not even bad.now it failed emissions part of smog test.how do i test the cats so I don't waste more$?
I took out my instrument cluster to check some issues and put it back in. Since then I can't start the car. I had the starter tested and it is fine. When I turn the key the starter doesn't even engage so it seems to be before the starter in the starting process. I hear a single click when turning the key to the on position. Then when I turn the key fully to start it I hear a single click again and nothing else. The click comes from under the passenger side dash under the glove box. Since the starter is fine I assume it is some part before the starter. I have been told it could be the ignition switch or ignition control module. Are there any other parts to consider between ignition and starter? Did I screw something up taking out the cluster? If so, I can't imagine what. I had to adjust the steering wheel to the lowest position to get the dash panel off but other than that the steering column wasn't touched and I didn't even touch any wires coming from the column/ignition. All of that said, I just keep thinking it can't just be coincidence that it won't start since I did that.
Not running hot or cutting off it's not leaking from my oil pan gasket or oil plug it's by the oil alignment need help jus getting a burn smell
No fuel pressure, pump was not running. Banged bottom of tank and pump tried to go but sounded weak kinda chugged slow then took off. So... we changed the pump and assembly.
Now the new pump won't come on. We've cycled key on/off tried cranking the engine. Etc. Also the fuel gauge is pointing staight down way past empty, needle is actually hitting the edge of the cluster.
We switched the fuel pump relay with a lot her one. What could cause this?
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