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GMC Jimmy Questions

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I just changed the water pump and thermostat on my 99 GMC Jimmy. My Radiator appears to be full and the reservoir is at a good level. The thermometer on the dashboard will indicate I am overheatign after about 10 minutes of run time (give or take a few minutes). I have checked my hoses and connections for leaks and have found nothing. Also do not see any evidence of antifreeze in the oil. A few people have told me I need to burp the system. Could it be something else? What would be the best way to burp the cooling system and if it is something else, how would I check it? I do not have a reliable mechanic to go to and I am low on cash so I will do all the labor myself.
it will shift into 4wd hi when slowing down from hwy speeds to under 45 mph. I then have to pull over shift it into nuetral push 2wd switch and return to drive then its fine. its annoying and sucking major gas. help!!!!
Lights stay on , then when I put the turn signal on they all stay on but not flashing
Changed plugs . Very hard to start at times , when I get it started it idles well but when I get going it skips and bucks.
I have a 2000 GMC Jimmy 4X4 Diamond Edition. After having transmission rebuilt (and an attempt to replace transfer case motor to get 4x4 working again since it hadn't been working for some time)....All seemed to go well with the transmission but the transfer case didn't solve the problem with the 4x4...they now think its the switch (actuator?) ...anyway...since they would have had to leave it in 4x4, they decided to remove the drive shaft so I would stay in 2 wheel drive instead. This made me very nervous but they said I wouldn't have any problems since it is only needed for 4x4....I was uncomfortable with this but didn't have much choice..They just said to try to bring back in when I can afford the nearly $100 for a used actuator switch and they could put the drive shaft back on and hopefully fix the 4x4.
After picking it up from all of that, I noticed my steering wheel was a little crooked when driving straight, and it was pulling a little. (The trans shop claims that wheels were not removed to do the trans so shouldn't be related).
I took it in to the place where I got new tires a few months ago to see if they could see if it needs an alignment and to rotate tires. They did the rotation but said an alignment wouldn't do much good since I need shocks.
A couple days after the rotation, I noticed a grinding sound from my front brakes that doesn't seem to start until I am almost at a complete stop (not when I first start applying pressure to the brakes). I also noticed that my ABS light came on...(but doesn't appear to be staying on every time I drive).
I read that they could have damaged my ABS sensor if they overtightened the lugs with a torque wrench with the rotation so I am about to take it back to be looked at but just wanted to be prepared. Is it likely that they caused this problem? I would think that if this was a brake problem, they would have told me I needed brakes when they did the rotation in the first place. Seems like too much of a coincidence that this just started.
I shared about the transmission because I also want to know if it is normal to rebuild a trans without removing the tires because I also read that sometimes they only disconnect one side of something or other, which can put added stress on ball joints on the side that they didn't disconnect. Just want to be sure that what I was told is true, or if the wheels are usually removed to rebuild a trans. Sorry that was long, but this is really stressing me out and the last thing I need is more expensive repairs to pay for if they caused the problem.
I would really like an expert opinion on what to do here.
Thanks!
I HAVE A 95 GMC JIMMY AUTOMATIC 2WD V6 4.3 VORTEC AND I HAVE BEEN NOTICING FOR THE LAST MONTH THAT WHEN I START THE TRUCK IT SEEMS THAT THE MOTOR IS REVVED UP AND I NOTICE THAT THE RPMS ARE KINDA HIGH BEFORE I EVEN PRESS THE GAS PEDAL, BUT WHEN IT WARMS UP IT WOULD IDLE NORMALLY...AND THEN THE OTHER NIGHT I WENT TO THE GROCERY STORE AND WHEN I WAS READY TO LEAVE THE TRUCK WOULDN'T REVERSE AT ALL WHEN I PUT IN "REVERSE", SO I HAD TO HAVE SOME GUYS HELP ME PUSH IT OUT OF THE PARKING SPACE I WAS IN, AND I WAS ABLE TO DRIVE HOME BUT I NOTICED THAT IT SEEMED TO NOT SHIFT GEARS RIGHT (KINDA LIKE IT WOULD SKIP 2ND AND GO INTO 3RD BUT IT DIDN'T CAUSE THE TRANSMISSION TO JUMP OR MAKE ANY GRINDING NOISES OR ANYTHING)I AM SO SCARRED THAT I AM GOING TO HAVE TO REPLACE OR HAVE MY TRANSMISSION COMPLETELY REBUILT, AND I AM HOPING THAT THERE MIGHT BE SOMETHING ELSE THAT COULD BE CAUSING IT? IF ANYONE HAS HAD THE SAME SORT OF ISSUE WITH THERE VEHICLE AND KNOW EXACTLY WHAT CAUSED IT I WOULD APPRECIATE ANY ADVICE THAT ANYONE COULD GIVE ME...OF COURSR I KNOW I AM GOING TO HAVE TO TAKE IT TO A TRANNY SHOP FOR A COMPLETE DIAGNOSIS BUT I WOULD KINDA LIKE TO KNOW A LIL BIT ABOUT WHAT COULD BE THE CAUSES OF THE PROBLEM, BECAUSE SINCE I AM A WOMAN IT SEEMS THAT THE PAST EXPERIENCES THAT I HAVE HAD WITH MOST MECHANICS HAVEN'T ALWAYS BEEN THE BEST, AND SOME ARE GONNA TELL ME I NEED A WHOLE NEW OR REBUILT TRANSMISSION BUT IF THERE IS ANOTHER PART THAT COULD BE CAUSING MY PROBLEM OR IF ONLY A CERTAIN PART OF THE TRANSMISSION CAN BE FIXED WITHOUT HAVING TO COMPLETELY REBUILD THE WHOLE THING I WOULD LIKE TO KNOW SO I DON'T LOOK SO NAIVE AND GULLIBLE WHEN I GO TO SPEAK WITH A MECHANIC...I APPRECIATE ANYONE THAT CAN HELP ME UNDERSTAND WHAT COULD BE THE PROBLEM! :)
They told me that these recalls were never done by GMC. Where did you get this information. Also why with a full tank of gas my vehicle starts on the first try, yet when tank is below 3/4 you have to crank it 3 times before it will start.
Then when they light up it starts. But it takes time before they come.
This is a 2000 GMC Jimmy 4x4 Diamond Edition with V6 Vortec 4300 4.3L, 4-speed electronically-controlled automatic transmission w/OD.
After hearing the clunk sound, noticed a winding sound, then went to about 3 rpm on gage before shifting,and continues to do that. After shift,it seems ok but I havent driven far, so not sure what will happen when going over 40mph but also just noticed it won't go in reverse either. Reverse feels like neutral now.
Bad financial situation right now, so trying to get a good idea of what the problem could be before taking in to a shop. Any ideas?
also makes a hydraulic noise and the brakes dont work, when you push really hard they will work again
i have never changed one need help.
I have a new battery,and alternator is not more than four years old.Runs fine in day light.
Hesitation between shifts is like it's about to stall. Changed tcc solenoid, cap, rotor, distributor, even fuel filter. Says it's starting in 4th gear.
especially if i start it in the am, itll misfire anywhere above 1500 rpm sounds kind of like its slurping air and very sloppy, i checked vacuum for leaks and its sealed properly, and i have been forced to drive the vehicle for a while to work (80 mile round trip 5 times a week ) and today i noticed that all of the sudden my vehicle lost a lot of pulling power while i was giving it some gas on the highway, and now no matter what i do it seems that if i give it gas anywhere above 2500 rpm it wont pull any harder, wondering it its got something to do with the trans ? also, can you help me diagnose the root of the problem in the first place ? ( as far as i got was i need spark plugs, wires, distributor cap, (( unfortunately my vehicle has the ""spider"" injection system thats famous for breaking on my engine,... just very confused and scared as to why the sudden loss of power, ( and misfire reduced btw (usually happens when im close to shifting gears now barely any misfire, and half my horsepower....) Help !!!!! i really need to have a proffesional opinion of whether i should sink more money into it or buy something new !! if there is any way of speaking live to a consultant on this matter i would greatly appreciate it!!! "" thanks in advance !!""
Code came after I replaced the intake manifold gasket i erase the code but comes back on in mins runs good but when starting I have to crack more then once I also just gave it a tune up but code still comes up any help thanks
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