GMC Envoy Questions

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I think it might be a trim piece catching the wind like a blade of grass but I can't locate it.

Where is the low end valve to put the coolant in

Front drivers side.

i checked the driver and passenger door panel module to make sure connections are tight. is there any other option i can look into.

It started going out and I could bang on the dashboard and it would come back on. Now it stays out and comes on sometimes after the vehicle has been driven a long while.

I have a check engine light p410 and would like to know what it means.

I was checking the brake light fuse under the seat. Then all of a sudden everything went dead. I don't know whst happen.

can you switch to coil springs without the EBM ?

i charge my spark plugs

went to the dealer they recommand to replace the variable timing unit i still dont think that will take care the problem i dont want to keep replacing parts any sccop

All sensors are saying ready for E test but the engine light is on because of clutch fan. When the engine light is turned off with scanner the o2 sensor ,cat converter and evaporater go to not ready for e test. When engine light is turned off as soon as u shut the truck off and start it again the light comes back on again. The scanner is reading 503 for fan rpm but the scanner wants to see 302 rpm when idling. My old clutch fan was seized and tore the wire harness got another clutch from the wreckers

I can not see how to get to the bulb to replace it.

it goes off only when I use brakes or car off

small oil leak

in idle when you give it gas it sounds a bit rough. can I take it to autozone and have them put a computer on it to tell me whats wrong?

need advice where to troubleshoot first and where the map sensor is on this vehicle. 2004 gmc envoy xuv

Engine light comes on once and awhile, did a code read- (p0454 EVAP intermittent), delete code and now am annoyed, I want to know how to release pressure from fuel tank/lines. I want to replace the EVAP Vapor Canister Purge Solenoid and Fuel Tank Sensor. Just bought the parts ($145.00 CDN) and doing the removal and install myself.

I had an oil change, brake pads replaced and a stabilizer link replaced on Friday. Saturday when I went out to the garage there was a strong gas/chemical odor (but no leak or fluid I could see). I drove less than 40 miles and the gas tank dropped from full to less than 3/4 tank. I took it back to dealer, they could not find leak, could not replicate the smell and ran codes and nothing came up. I went home but gas continues to plummet. Another 25 miles, another quarter tank. I cannot afford to drive it at this rate. Help!

now I get a clicking noise and it does not left car up...

I had it replaced last Friday and noticed on Monday it was leaking coolant again. Took it back to the mechanic he stated it was leaking above the coolant around the housing. What could this be, it's not running hot or anything else. I had a tune-up done as well. Please help!

tailgate will not open rear wiper does not work also speedodometer and rpm not working help

light is on constant 122000 miles on car also rear window regulator not working would that cause back door and back window not to work also the roof does not work i replaced modular board in rear door that did not fix it someone told me rear window regulator is not sending message so that is causing all other problems could that be


the oil gauge goes from 80 to 0 back to 80 no engine noise like if there was low oil level and check engine turns on then a turn engine off warning then it all disappears.
My scanner does not read any codes?
I'm planning to change the oil sending unit and need to know where it is and how to do it.

Wife came home tonight and said the car was hard to turn like there was no power steering. I checked the fluid level and it looked fine (almost up to the H). I checked to see if the fluid was hot and it only felt warm. Also touched the hoses and they felt warm but not hot. Didn't see any leaks. I started the car and didn't hear any strange noises. The wife did say she heard some noise, it stopped, and then the steering started getting harder and harder to turn. Basically I'm trying to know if I'm looking at replacing the Power Steering Pump or the Rack and Pinion. I want to be prepared before I take it to my mechanic in the morning.

I put a code reader on it and it said i wasnt getting power to the port so I checked all my fuses and found one blown. I replaced the fuse and the pedals still wont adjust. I havent hooked the reader up since replacing, but theres no service light on so im not sure it will tell me anything anyway.

the shifter move from park to drive and so on and the key wont come out of the ignition have to disconnet the battery when on off

the shifter move from park to drive and so on without pushing the side button

I replaced the heater core and the air coming from the front vents take way too long to heat up. The air in the rear passenger vents never heat up. Its not my blower motor because the air condition works great. The air blows out really fast and cold, but as soon as I turn the temperature up to 90 degrees the heat kicks in but the air coming out deminishes to almost nothing coming out. I can hear the blower motor running but heat not coming out nearly as fast as AC?

Service 4wd light came on and 4wd will not engage. Had been working just 2 days prior. Replaced Front Axle 4wd Shift Actuator Switch after researching (and it was only $79) but still does not work. Tried pulling #8 fuse and back seat fuse but no success. Indicator lights all blink when car is turned on then stops at 2wd. I think I hear a little vacuum sounding noise when I move switch from 2wd through other positions but they just blink with 2wd on constant. Hope someone can help. Thanks.