Ford Mustang LX Questions

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The transmission is leaky (where an intercooler line attaches) and every time I add tranny fluid, the car's exhaust smokes - for a day or a few hours. Then it's fine for a few days then the tranny slips, I add more fluid then the exhaust smokes...get the picture? I can't say there is a connection but that's the pattern. It can go days without any smoke or loss in power, but if I add transmission fluid, the exhaust smokes on startup and acceleration until it goes down to a certain level. Never at idle or normal speeds (as in no acceleration) and the exhaust is wetter than I think it should be. Ring sealer didn't do anything, neither did valve sealer. A friend thinks the car is just running rich, and it does knock and have little power when it is smoking. When it is not smoking it runs like a champ with plenty of get-up-and-go with not knocking. Weird. I have driven over 750,000 miles on this type of car and never had this problem. Sure, the factory setting is a little rich, choke sticks
I have heard some say you can warp or crack the valves running the car with open shorties, and have also heard people say you can put an old rag in the end of the headers. I am concerned doing this, could it catch fire since the headers will be extremely hot? I understand you definitely do not want to do this in cold weather, but would any harm be caused running it in the summer with temps in the 70-80's?

Any advice, please let me know!!
ac blower motor not working
no previous issue with these and quit all together at once... please help
She sat up in grandma's garage for 15 years, got her running so smoothly then started acting up like there's a vacuum leak, she will crank up and run at idle all day (run roughly though) but as soon as I put her in gear she goes dead everytime.. oil was changed (old oil was fine, no mixing of oil and water), she never ran hot on me.. I've had several people look at her, I've heard change plugs n wires again, blown head gasket, vacuum leak, and so on.. The blown head gasket everyone thinks is questionable because the oil is fine and she never ran hot.. I'm in a bad dilemma as a single mom of 3 my funds are limited but desperately need to be back on the road again or break grandma's heart and sell her for a dependable mechanically sound ride. Hope I can find answers here, I'd be tremendously grateful and appreciate it very much for any insight that could be given!! Have a wonderful day! Btw on the next page 1990 is the earliest year to choose from or can't submit but mine is a 1987 Ford Mustang LX Convertible 2.3
Wen put in gear it jerks and shutdown
It might crank and runs good you might go out their and it turn over and hit but won't crank
already replaced the switch.. Same problem
Overheating occurs quickly when driving short distance,loud rattling noise begins when pushing accelerator only as temp climbs then when gauge reaches highest level it shuts off . Has water and oil,but oil was really low.Has smell and A little smoke when raised hood.Already has a rack and pinion leak and bad ignition computer,but don't know if that is relevant or related.told could be related to the head or engine going bad.know zero about cars and no money for professional diagnoses but ANY opinion would be greatly appreciated to know at least a starting point
Began to light up and off check engine light car is like new only has 56000 miles
bought this car used. we suspected it had a little damage to the axle because there was uneven wear on the rear brake drums. replaced rear brakes. squeaking stopped, now started again less than 6 mos. later. Now I went to drive yesterday and i heard a crunching squeal noise ! sounds like a soda can being crushed by steel cog-wheels. i read a q&a talking about worn outer tie rods, is this the problem or something else?
92 mustang lx 2.3l,
Tryed starting the car but it would crank over everything else work( lights, gauges, fuel pump,etc) but would not crank. After a few tries of trying to start the car everything quit working. No light gauges fuel pump etc. but after a while the car would get the electronics back but once again after a few tries the electronics quit working and still no crank or fire
my blinkers, head lights, and brake lights are not working.
the blinkers will work with the emergency light switch but not the signal switch.
I just bought the car. I see there is a newer stereo and looks like there is wiring for sub/amp
was wondering where I should start.
fuses were good.
Idles rough and dies in park and neutral only. Does fine while in gear. Would the neutral safety switch cause this?
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