Ford Mustang GT Questions

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when i drive at night i have to hurry home before dark.i have no diagnostic code but i did change my headlights to a one pieces sets and use the new wire that came with the sets.never had no trouble until i made the change.

Put key in door, windows come down & won't go back up, locks don't click, lose radio, headlights, turn signals, air conditioning/heat/defroster. Have installed new ignition switch & new relay device and have 2 new keys. Also trouble shifting out of park when starting car. Car starts and runs fine, battery & alternator fully charged.

Number 2 cam support on passanger side is exceeding worn and so is the cam. Can it be repaired or must it be replaced

Tried it again sounds like the starter is not ingauging. Test the starter a N wirk just fine.had the flywheel replace.

I was pulling into the drive way which was covered with snow. I had the traction control turned off. I stepped onto the gas to turn the car around in the driveway. It was a controlled 180 degree turn. In the middle of the turn, the advance trac disabled itself and would not let the car move at all. It would not go forward or backward. I live on a slight hill. Turned the car off for 5 minutes, shoveled the snow, the advanced trac disabled light went off, and I could barely move the car before the red light came on again.
The car is an automatic and has done this (3) times since. The dealer says he cannot find anything wrong. Has anyone else had this issue?

2003 GT 128000km just change front hub bearing left and
right, break are brand new all around disc pads and front caliper just replace rear struts and axel damper, so its starts litle wille ago when exiting hiway turning right side rear wheel knoking and grinding not that loud but when i pull in the drive way turning right side its grinding and knocking loud but allways on the side rear wheel,parking thight turn is the same...seam that when the car is cold it dosnt do it there is nothing slacks everything tigh so my mechanics thinks that may be something in the axel and got smal vibration coming from the end of the transmison (automaticozorus) so next step is opend uo the rear diff to see whats in it ..


it tries to stalls out

I need to pass my CT state emissions test for my registration, but 4 readiness monitors are not engaging. It's mostly garage kept, has 14,000 miles, has a big K&G cold air intake, and the previous owner had a super chip tuner installed. Recently the battery died so I was told I needed to drive it more so that the CAT, O2 sensor, and EVAP, etc... can engage. After driving over 200 miles so far no dice.
1. What's the exact/proper drive cycle for a 2005 Mustang GT so that the monitors will come alive?
2. Do would suppose the super chip have disabled the monitors in anyway?
3. If I can't get the monitors to engage, would I need to reverse the tune back to the factory tune?

Thanks in advance

Mustang Suzie

I need an answer as qiuckly as possible

I cant remember all the codes... there were three, but one was a drive shaft sensor(?)The estimated price... the last around One Thousand. The car runs for a while and then just stalls. I let it sit and then restart it. sometimes this happens once out every three trips. Sometimes several times a trip.

the wiring to an after market security system had been poorly installed by the previous owner so the wires started breaking and causing the alarm to go off and the car not to start i removed the security system and spliced all the wires back together and ensured there were no further shorts i do have a set of black and red wires that have a plug coming out of the shifter area but can not seem to find where to connect it i assume it has to go to the nuetral safety switch it wont turn over at all

There is some noise coming whenever I rotate my wheels, Its coming even i am on 5 miles speed. I changed my break shoe but it seems something else. Can you please suggest what is the cause and what will be the price of it.

does this axle supposed to have a groove around axle

No smoke to indicate burning oil and there is no evidence of a leak. PCV and breather are fine. Compression test numbers are consistant and all cylinders read between 168 and 175 psi. No loss of power. Car only has 43K miles. What could be the problem? The only thing I haven't done is a leak down test. Please help if you have any clue.

Car sputters in 6th gear when I try to accelerate. Was there any problems from ford

the car keeps tearing up timing belts and runs hot when the timing belt is on along with the manuel shift transmission in fiorst and second gear very slugish

would it be the fuse?

I have a vacuum leak coming from the back of the intake but not from the pcv or were the hoses for the pcv connect to the back of upper intake manifold but almost as if it were coming closer to the bell housing bolts but it seems like it is coming further down in that general area. Timing is on and it idles but about two or three mins of idling in park it jumps from 500rpm to 700rpm stays constant to around three to four mins then will drop back down to normal idle (500rpm) not sure what i got going on.

In the morning when I first start the car and turn the steering wheel as I back up, it jerks and makes a popping noise. It does not do it anymore after the one time, but it does it every time I start the car in the morning. It will jerk without moving the car when I turn the wheel slightly. It was so loud a couple of times, I thought I hit something. It sounded like a hammer on metal. I have tried to make it happen after the innitial start but it does not do it. Even after the car sits for a while there is no problem. Only in the morning after it sits all night. I checked the front end and then took it to the dealership twice and they could not find anything.

I replaced the Thermostat and it still overheats. Suggestions (I replaced the thermo. with a 195 degree one. Suggestions

my belt started smoking and burning after I turned on my defroster and set temp. to cool!!

fuel pressure was erratic, around 30psi or less. with A.C. on fuel pressue drops to 20 or less and engine stumbles. Changed fuel pressure sensor and fuel pump. now the fuel pressure is steady 30 psi but when the air is turned on the engine still stumbles like it is running out of fuel. does this car have a fuel pressure regulator? cant find one.

and now its making a clicking sound what could it be
my car is lowered

and now its making a clicking sound what could it be
my car is lowered

I need to know where to put in gear oil and why its like popping or misfiring

I need to know where to put in gear oil and why its like popping or misfiring

I have changed the fuel pump, the relay and the constant relay. Paid a mechanic to fix it but he could not.

trans fluid is full

went and checked again then no power. Couldn't get power again to low pressure switch. What could be problem?

I have trouble moving from second to forth gear when getting on freeway, then it kicks in at 4RPM then goes back down to normal I have just had service done on it.The man said I need a new transmission. do I ??????? thanks for any help you can give