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Ford Explorer Questions

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throwing code bank one and bank two too rich
repair shop replaced master cylinder and front brake pads but was told abs control module needed replacing as well.brake pedal still drops slowly while braking but vehicle stops with no problem even though t doesn't seem like it will stop.
The handles is broken off and only the peg shows, the seat back is leaning too far back and I can't move it.
They just stopped if this has happened to n.e.one please tell me what you had to do to fix it
I swapped all seats from one explorer to the other and the airbag light is been on since the change. Does this mean I need to swap the seats sensors as well. How can I fix this issue. Thanks so much...Rafael. Bloomfield, Ct
It is very hard to crank and once it starts I have to push the gas pedal to get it to 1100 rpm, but once I let off the gas it dies
It blowes what looks like white/grey smoke when first started, cold & when I stop at a light or first put it in gear & hit the gas but no other time. sometimes it has a small miss while driving. I've changed 02 sensors,coils, spark plugs, value pan gasket. nothing seems to be leaking what can cause this.
When I first bought truck I replaced a fuel pump and a thermostat it had a small leak in radiator. my dad said it was a seal or something and after drivin it for bout a month and half and keepin check on the leak he said it sealed its self up lol but it wasn't leakin or running hot. Now like a week ago I go to crank it after just gettin gas and it won't crank I gave it a min and then it started but it smells bad and is making really bad sounds under hood I replaced all freeze plugs and thermostat and patched leak in radiator like guy said but now it is cutting off while driving smokin bad making more weird sounds but all my Gage's are reading good all my fluids are good what could this be
the truck will run then it just shuts off but will start later
Can I fix this without buying a new catilac converter
The vehicle does not start. The last time it started it travelled about 40 ft and just turned off by itself.
If I am driving with a constant pressure on peddle it is ok but if I put the gas peddle down a little more it bucks around then stops. If in park or sitting at a stop it idles fine. Please give me some ideas in need of help.
No matter if i put air on tires it still keep saying tire default.
I have taken the key lock cylinder out of the column but have a bit of a problem. The end of the cylinder has broken off in the gear behind the cylinder. How do you pull the plastic clip holding the washer in place and get the gear out to replace?
Still trying to get my 1992 Ford Explorer 4.0L 4dr Auto 4WD VIN X to run properly.

Here's the current situation:

It starts fine, runs about 30 seconds, then chugs, loses power, and Check Engine Light comes on.

What we've discovered: It is running on only 2 cylinders now. When I pull the the wires off the coil, here's what I find: Cylinders 1 and 5 do not spark at all. Cylinders 2 and 6 spark but do not fire. Cylinders 3 and 4 spark and fire.

When I first got this Explorer, the engine ran fine. These problems occurred after it failed a smog test. (It probably would not have failed had anyone noticed that a 1' piece of tailpipe was missing between the catalytic converter and the exhaust pipe, which I've since installed). After making many attempts, codes were pulled but were random so I replaced O2 sensor, crankshaft position sensor, MAF, cleaned the Idle adjust sensor, replaced vacuum tubes, repaired a few broken ground wires, re-installed the 'retard timing' octane jumper.

I base the cylinder numbers on this diagram:

3 4 -- sparking and firing
2 6 -- sparking, not firing
1 5 -- no sparking, no firing
(Coil looking from the front)

Cylinders on the engine are numbered
3 6
2 5
1 4
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