Ford Escape Questions

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engine 3.0... 4 wheel drive...

Looks like it's for the Turbos

My Ford escape Jeep is not moving when put in reverse but drive moves

engine light comes on, in humid weather.. i have it checked and they say it has something to do with the fuel inlet sensor no big deal.. I started off to work and everything was fine,, I stop to get gas, get back on the road and notice the engine sounds a bit rough.. engine light starts flashing and the engine stalls... I put the trans in neutral and restart the engine it starts but idles very rough.. thought maybe it was a fuel filter.. but i have a " lifetime" fuel filter that needs no maintenance .. any suggestions? I need to get this solved because I am ill and need to make frequent trips to the hospital.. help!!

I have a 2002 Ford Escape with 3.0 Liter engine. The engine has just been replaced tranny rebuilt 1.5 years ago, AC rebuilt last year. Now when I am driving in town with the traffic lights the ac starts blowing warm air and engine sounds like it is about to die.(running very rough) I can push the pedal to the floor and it sputters and coughs a little and eventually is will run normal, and the AC goes back to blowing cold air. If I am on the freeway it runs like a charm as long as I keep the RPMs higher than 3500. but if I start slowing it blows warm air unless I get the RPMs back up. Does anyone know what is wrong with my car?

Only occurs when A/C is on. Belt is fine, and system works well. No other unusual noises.

I recently replaced air conditioner compressor . After that my car began to run differently. I have now replaced coils on each plug and still have a misfire. Could the a/c compressor or a/c wiring have anything to do with misfire?

My car broke down a week ago... car lost all power, and battery wasn't charging... I limped it hope by charging it and driving for a few miles... ect... I replaced the alternator the next day. Seemed to be running ok... but the batter light was flashing every little bit. Out of necessity I still drove it, but it broke down just a few days ago with the same symptoms. But with a quick jump it starts right back up. Bought a new battery and the light is still flashing. I am at a complete loss with this. The only other thought that I have is connections being corroded. If anyone can give me some insight I would greatly appreciate it.

I was checking out a used 2008 Ford Escape 4WD XLT but was looking at the rear bumper which seems to be very flimsy. I was wondering if this is normal for this type of car. I am able to push the rear bumper with one finger and make it move to the point where if another car was to rear end me it doesn't look like the rear bumper would withstand any impact. Is this abnormal? Could this be a self-repair job that was unreported by the previous owner?

I drove it to work with no problem. When I left work, as soon as I hit 30 mph, the symptoms started. It was not drove during the day, but we did have a deluge rain during the day.
The vibration increases with speed and over 50 it is terrible. Other than the vibration, it drives fine.

It was running good parked for the night and now when I try to start it all the lights come on ,windows and door locks all work but it does not do any thing ,I checked the fuses and breakers all good ,battery has full charge. Help please ASAP thanks

The vehicle ran great for the first 29 days, then on the 30th day my check engine light came on (started to flash) and it would start shaking and not accelerate. Dealer said it was a fuel injector, which would cost $485 to replace. Does this sound right, or should I make them replace all of them? Wondering if I should give the vehicle back to the dealer and buy something else because the extended warranty doesn't cover this issue?

Car is currently making a loud 'go-kart' like noise all of a sudden from the front of the car. It sounds like a muffler issue but looking underneath I can't see any rust or disconnection from the muffler.

All of a sudden my car started stalling would not take gas and the wrench light came on. I turned off the car and it started up fine. Oil transmission and other fluids are perfect. What does it mean?

Just started. Always remains locked

The light was never on before. vehicle ran prior. A dealer diagnostics is how issue was found. 2 codes, ECU and ignition coils.