Ford Escape Hybrid Questions

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I need the car to get up to operating temp but the engine keeps turning off and gong into battery mode I need know how to stop it from going into battery mode

Car drives fine, no warning lights. System check says everything is fine.

I bought it n they said they put in a different transmission n now it won't stay running it starts n dies right away

I have a 2007 Ford Escape hybrid with 9400 miles. I am wondering if there is an average mileage amount that this hybrid battery usually dies or need to be replaced?

Hybrid electric engine is not functioning at low speed or when stationary

This 2.5 L Atkinson-cycle engine is paired to el. Motor and HV-batteries

We had issues with the engine shutting down and getting the message to "Stop safely now" so we took it in and had the cooling pump replaced under the recall but the problem is still happening. We have 2 things that come up 1 is " hot engine temperature" then "stop safely now" will come on when trying to drive more then 30 minutes. We can't use the air or take to many hills or it happens more often and we live in FL where it's extremely hot and has a lot of bridges :/ any idea what it could be is it possible that we got a bad part?

It started last night, whenever I apply pressure to the gas pedal, the underside makes a chirp, the slower i go, the slower the chirp is. Is it a dry U joint? Or is it a tattle tale brake? When I am in park or neutral and rev the engine it does not chirp.

I was charging my a\c compressor and then I heard a clicking sound with a burnt smell. My a\c is no longer operating at a cold capacity.

This problem has only hapoened once ive had no problem before this with it going into gear

I took my 2005 Escape Hybrid in for diagnostic and was told that the throttle body needs replacement base on the codes they found. They also said it would be $900+ and I'm somewhat skeptical of this being mechanically capable I'm digging around about it. This relates to the vehicle not having much power when stepping on the gas, and the engine revving when I do but going nowhere...also the gas mileage has dropped to 24 from 33 a few years ago.

While driving my 2012 Escape Hybrid (51100 miles) yesterday the dashboard brake light came on, the digital readout said "CHECK BRAKE SYSTEM". I noticed at the same time the engine would no longer go into Hybrid mode (run on the electric motor) even though it normally would have. I could still brake and I took it to the dealer. They called me this morning and told me the internal check valve had to be replaced, like $530 bucks. They have a TSB about it but no real info (TSB 22353). Why is it failing and how come the hybrid won't engage?

If engine is running they stay on also fuel economy has gone down a little

When going on hills or merging into freeway.

Dealer has had the vehicle three times and can find no problem. When a jumper is placed on the car all functions reappear. It would seem that it is resetting something. I can park it in the garage and the next morning----nothing. It is a mystery problem that computers have been unable to diagnose. I would like to have a electrical schematic to help me determine what it might be.

Sometime it's ok and break check sign always appear. And also the tire pressure also stay on how to reset that

It didn't start 2-3 time after that It started and I drove 15 miles and after that it's not starting again. Pls help me. Code is P1633 with engine check light.

I am being told it the water pump and actuator.

bought new 12v battery and charged to make sure full charge found 1 fuse out 80 Amp EPAS,also 1 relay,checked all fuses and relays,hooked both elec. waterpumps to 12v work,2 to 12v work,all with key on run...lishts,horn,pw,pm,pdl,p seat,radio,cd,heater fan,ac button can hear the clutch kick in,all dash lights,abs charges up and so on,turn to start nothing,tried pushing both cut off switches and then the jump start button wait 7-8 min.can hear abs charge up ,epas charge and a lot of clicking then I wait it stops then I turn key to start hear some relays click and the air intake valve?[hooked to filter box and intake]starts humming and keeps humming when I release to the run position,the lights on dash that remain on are engine,tire,oil,abs,wrench lights message says check braking system and tire pressure also removed hose on air intake and the butter fly valve is hard to move when humming and easy when I turn key off the car has been seating for a few month so the hybrid battery I am sure needs to be charged can the PCM be the problem?

the guy I bought from said it just stop running but pink showed transferred 2-14[not sure if bought it and could not get it running] p/u 5/14 now not running 4 months owner said had custom alarm removed he thought that was it still won't start,dealer said fuse box and water pump bad $1k also said trans bad??then asked how much I paid for it[bs] they just wanted start charging for things that are working, tow home checked both water pumps working,found 80 amp EPAS fuse blown replaced all others good,checked relays,before bringing to dealer replaced 12v battery,when you turn key to run all electrical works pw,pm,pld,lights,fan,radio and so on,HOW EVER some times the alarm light will blink slow then go out when the key is turned and sometimes blink fast[PATS?]removed battery ground many times when checking relays,all have is 1 key no remotes but believe it is a transponder key check fuse hybrid battery good push both reset buttons and jump start button waited 8 minutes still won't start when alarm light is off?? Can it be the PATS transponder or PCM power control module that is bad,don't know if the codes can be check if

While driving I can hear my pressure relief valve go off numerous times. I'm assuming this causes refrigerant loss which could be the cause of only cool air. I put gauges on the high side and it was pretty high. Could this be caused by a restricted orifice tube? If so, are the variable orifice tubes worth the expense? Also, should I change out the accumulator and what is the best quality brand? I hear Motocraft quality is currently lacking.

This happened on the freeway after driving about 20 minutes outside it was dry and about 60 degrees F. After I safely coasted to the shoulder and cried a little, it started back up with no indication it had gone dead. Is this a sign of something bad?

Should I replace all the rod bearings even if they feel tight? or should I use Plasigauge on each one to be sure?
What should the crankshaft diameter be where the rod bearings connect and what plasigauge reading is acceptible using standard bearings?

My reading using a calipar was around 1.935 to 1.955 inches. Does that fall within spec?