Dodge Ram 2500 Questions

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Diagnostics alarm states o2 sensor bank 2

The truck is a dual battery set up. The battery that is closest electrically to to the alternator continually overheats and leaks acid. It has been replaced 3 times and is not the problem. The alternator has been replaced and puts out 12.4 to 15 volts and is not the problem. The remaining battery does not cook with the problematic battery removed from the system and the charging system appears to work normally.

how do i adjust bank 1 fuel trim too rich?

the fan on the air an heat will only run on high

Not sure if the battery dying had anything to do with this or not but gf decided to clean the truck out and ended up leaving the cargo light on all day. I boosted it and it started but would not stay running. Is running real rough now. No clue what is going on with it. I have been having the problem listed here as far as shifting between drive and over drive that no one had any idea why....changed the fuse and hoping that will solve that problem but not going to know until I figure out this rough idle I have going on now!

truck runs for 30 min . cuts off let it sit for 20min restarts. replaced crank sensor still cuts off. loose's
fire and fuel??? can cam sensor in distribitor cause this??also replaced cut off relay!

it is dripping so I figured it will need to be replaced...would this be covered under an extended warranty?

truck will not stay running. turn over, fire up, die. several times until it stays running. changed battery, and some sensors.

truck will start, die. start, die. start, run, die. start, run, brake, die.

does anyone have code book for 97 dodge ram 2500 diesel code 1683 thanks

what type of batteries should i buy

Where does the control feed come from

Is there a brake proportioning valve on a '97 Dodge Ram Diesel 2500 4x2? Also, other than manually adjusting rear shoes, what is the proper procedure for self-adjusting brakes. Have always manually adjusted rear brakes but never seems to be sufficient braking from the rear.

where is the ECTS located at. found the one in front near thermoastat. need the second one for the temp gauge. gauge wont work. can uplug the sensor in front and gauge will peg out then go back down.

where is the electronic coolant temperature sensor located at. i think there two. found one cant find the second one.

check engine light come on, no trouble codes, comes on again.

how come when i get a half a tank in my 97 dodge 2500 diesel it loses its prime

engine suddenly accelerating whenever coming to a complete stop

my transmission has a sluggish shift out of 1st and 2nd gear. I am attempting to do a tune-up(fluid & filter). I noticed a square shaped magnet at the bottom of the pan and I don't know if it belongs there or if it is some mistake from another mechanic. the magnet does not appear broken, and it doesn't have any sharp edges. please help.

Hi, my ABS light came on awhile back. I took it to the dealership and they said it was the speed sensor that is in the rear end, I had it replaced and the light is still on. I have checked all the wiring and can not find anywhere that it is broke, all of the fuses are good. Can you help please

where the banjo bolt is on injector pump and fuel canister and the 3,4,5 cylinders to bleed fuel lines...maybe called the bleed screw...thanks steve

my right turn signal pin has no power to it when signal is on. Fuses check out fine and turn signal on truck works fine. What's up?

will not start in am

the wipers don't lay down when wipers are shup off.

I have a 1994 Dodge Ram 2500 12 valve cummins dieseland my problem is this. My truck will run fine when it is first started but after it warms up to normal motor temp it starts missing like its running out of fuel, it will keep on like this until the motor makes a loud "click" almost like the sound of dry firing a rifle. When this "click" occurs the motor starts running fine. So my question is what is the clicking noise and why does it only start running bad once the motor has warmed up

I got an average of 18.9 mpg combined city/highway driving for two years; always the same route. After a check engine light came on Dodge replaced the fuel actuator and my fuel economy dropped to 13.9 mpg. The check engine light also came back on. Then Dodge relaced the fuel injectors and mentioned that one cylinder had a piston that was close to having a hole burned in it. Now my fuel econony averages 14.9 for the exact same route to work and back. All of this activity occurred over a 3 week period in March 2010. Dodge then suggested that the overhead readout may no longer be accurate even though I told them I used to fill up once a week and now must do so every 4 to 5 days. Dodge then asked me to manually check my fuel mileage. Two tanks later and I am still at 14.8 mpg average.

Does anyone have any suggestions on what Dodge may have overlooked or how I regain the prior fuel economy?

Is it ok to replace PCM with one from a junk yard?

does the wheel bearing abs sensor actually tell you that a wheel bearing is bad?I pulled both wheel bearings out to replace the cv joints. upon reinstalling the bearings,etc. now abs/brake lights are on.could i have gotten dirt down the hole of the wheel bearing, and the abs sensor is not reading that wheel properly?

when put in 1st and then into second there is no shift when put into drive from second it shifts but only able to go about 50 and it feals like it is maxed out about 2000 rpm .connected a code checker and it give me p0753 shift solenoid a electrical

1st start of the day ,truck cranks healthy but wont start. let it sit 15 or 20 minutes then starts. pour fuel in the the carb and it runs off the fuel.i'm stumped. have changed the plugs,wires,cap and rotor,new coil and dealer replaced timing belt 2 years ago