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Dodge Grand Caravan Questions

Get answers to questions about your Dodge Grand Caravan at RepairPal. Find solutions, diagnose problems and get back on the road.

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Lift gate failed. I had the motor, linkage and latch replaced. Now if I open with the remote I must close with the remote. I can no longer open with the remote and close by hand. The dealer does not know why?

When this happens the dash warning lights come on as is normal, but nothing else happens. Is the problem in the ignition switch? This only happens once or twice a week.

I replaced my old battery with a smaller battery. Is this gonna make a difference or cause problems ? Since I put the battery in the head lights and dash lights flicker while im driving. I dont know if its because the battery is to small ? Or maybe the alternator is starting to go ? any advice would be great thank you.

I went to auto part store and asked for the master cylinder for my caravan. This is a four wheel disk brake system. At the store they sold me the master cylinder for my caravan so I expected it to be the correct part. I was surprised to find out when installing this new part that the fitting on the end of ech brake line that attaches to the master cylinder wer a littlie smaller then the threaded female opening on the new cylinder. they would not thread in and hold tight or even be tighted all the way so I figured they gave me the cylinder for the caravan with rear drum brakes. So when I took the new cylinder back and check to see if the new cylinder was for the caravan with four wheel disk brakes I was surprised to find out the new cylinder was the one for the caravan with four wheel disk brakes. So I exchanged the new cylinder that is for the caravan with four wheel disk brakes and got the cylinder that is for the caravan with rear drum brakes. When I installed the new cylinder that is for the caravan with rear drum brakes it fit and the end of the brake lines threaded together perfect and I bled the air from the system. All seemed well until I started getting air into the system and looseing brake pedal. this is why I replaced the cylinder to begin with. Cause when I removed the master cylinder that was on my caravan when i bought it, there was brake fluid visible. So I figured this new cylinder would fix my problem. But it is doing the same thing and I havent removed the new cylinder to see if there is brake fluid visible again. I wanted to get some answers first before I attempt any more troubleshooting of my brakes. Now what I want to know is if its ok to have the master cylinder thats for the caravan with rear drums on my caravan that has four wheel disk brakes. Or do I need to cutt the end of both the lines that attach to the master cylinder and put on the larger fittings and flair the brake lines so they will fit the cylinder that is for the caravan with four wheel disk brakes. Because cutting and flaring the brake lines with larger fitting is the only way the four wheel disk brake master cylinder will install correctly onto my caravan. Once I get the answer on what I need to do I can finally not have to bleed my brakes every day. thank you

Just found anti freeze in oil.

I see a lot of people asking the same type of question, mine is also showing 'ESP' indicator as well as the 'squiggly' lines indicating loss of traction. I just wonder how this can be an 'electrical/sensor/computer' problem when the noises seem to be more 'mechanical'?

dual video screens, only the rear one works, both worked when first purchased (used). The screen (rear) only works when it's placed at a certain angle. is there an in-line fuse for each screen?

engine code P0340 no cam signal at pcm, what could be problem and the solution ?

changed my altinator and let the van run for almost 45 minutes to get a good charge and now the van will not start back up as if it hadn't charged at all. its got an all new battery and fuel pump and everything else is in pretty good shape

played good,one morning nothin,no sound,checked fuses already and harness

The noise seems to be coming from the upper area of the firewall. I have already replaced the struts and strut mounts but the noise is still there. A local shop has also changed many of the suspension bushings with no luck, any sugestions?

The check engine light is coming on and staying on. I was told that I have an emissions leak causing the switch to stick so it needs to be replaced.

Does it while driving and shifting gearstrying to accelerate to shift lanes

Does it while driving and shifting gears

When my car shifts into 2 it makes the steering wheal jerk to the left a little, and sometimes not at all

Shifting gears, picks up speed and then drops speed

It picks up speed and then it drops speed, when driving

When I turn on the heater it blows only cold air and when I turn the car off I'm unable to start it again. The dash lights fail and I have to jump start the vehicle, which starts immediately. I also hear a clicking noise that seems to be coming from the TIPM when this happens. I have no problems starting the car as long as I don't turn on the heater but with Winter coming I'll need to use it. I've replaced the battery and cleaned the cables, which were corroded. The heater worked fine last winter. I cannot afford to take it in for repair.

The issue is that my van does not have an egr valve. The egr valve is factory delete. How am i throwing a code for a part that does not exist in my vehicle? There is no wiring harness for an egr valve so i cannot do the resistor trick. I cannot pass mass inspection with the mil illuminated. I also have no place to install an egr valve or piping. There is just solid metal or smooth plastic where the egr would go. I will add that this is a E-85 compliant vehicle.

we had the drivers side switch replaced in the window still don't go down on my caravan don't know what it is the vehicle is a finance vehicle

Water was dumping in the passenger side at the feet. I cleared that line, full of leaves. Now it's damp inside and the fabric and carpet is starting to mold. When you sit in the drivers seat your butt gets wet.

All the lights came on at the same time and the buzzer went off and the engine went to H (hot). What is going on?

Van has problems starting intermittently. Took it to a dealership, was charged 120.00 and told it had a loose battery cable. It started doing it again. Read a couple of forums that seem to think a neutral switch that Dodge calls a TR sensor is at fault. Does anyone know how much this costs or even if I'm barking up the right tree? Shifting can be rough at times, and there is a distinct clunk when engaging transmission from a stop at times.

my friend completely removed the factory car alarm system and now the van won't start. all out all other electrical appliances are working they do not know how to diagnose and fix this not a mechanic