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Chrysler Town & Country Questions

Get answers to questions about your Chrysler Town & Country at RepairPal. Find solutions, diagnose problems and get back on the road.

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1,885
questions

It starts fine. When I'm pressing the gas it putters repeatedly.

barely made it home. stearing wheel normally at 9 and 3 now with wheels straight its at 12 and 6. during drive home it went extreamly loose. talked to a friend they said possibly rack and penion...please help

Have replaced egr valve and the check engine light came back on after a few days again. Have had the connections checked. Van is chugging like it's not getting enough gas or it is to lean it seems. Any suggestions

I have a new fuel pump and was told that the fuel pump relay might have went out

I had my power steering cooler replaced because it was leaking I had a friend put it on well now it's leaking more do I really need a power steering cooler because I told it was an aftermarket part

Husband can't find the drain to spray air into it, No water is draining out of it. Any pictures or diagrams would be great.Please help because I am on that side and I am tired of getting all wet. Signed Wife

This has happened 4 times in about 2 months.

This model has automatic temp control and all bells/whistles. We want the interior air circulation button to stay on to prevent exhaust odor from coming inside. This is especially a problem when warming up the car in the garage (even with garage door open) in the winter before we leave. This button also will not stay on while driving unless the Air conditioner button is on.

Old grandpa. Have changed both speed sensors and checked wiring harness behind dash. Put in new battery. Cleaned battery terminals. Told to check wiring cluster below battery but encased in sheath. Should I try to trace this cluster to where wires attach below? Is one particular color wire a likely cause? Getting no codes w scanner. Often car runs like new w no problems. Seems to be worse when first started up but will occur sometimes just when driving. Dealer wants $120.00 just to do "special" scan procedure. Worried about hurting trans when car "jumps"
otherwise will just keep driving and will not worry about speedometer jumping and slight trans jerk. Car has about 250,000 mi. I'm on fixed income and need to keep it if possible. Will crawl under car if needed to further check harness cluster for bad connection. Grandson can pull me out from under after by my ankles. Thought I'd give this forum a try and maybe get lucky. Appreciate any thoughts from experts. Thanks, Grandpa (Great Grandpa if I'm honest) Jim

It will start and run good for a couple of days and then just stop cranking the engine over I've replaced the starter and still having the same problem

Happened all at once to both side doors.

Full on coolant? Heater inside never gets warm @ all?? Radiator has card board in front so no air can get through and still very cold. All hoses are cold!
Thanks

Oil leak has been going on for a while Even after having a new pan and gasket put on it still drips constantly. New issue just started, vehicle shudders at low speed. I allowed the vehicle to warm up for 20 minutes prior to jumping in, then was startled by a quick paced shudder almost similar to that of a flat tire feeling but as if it were coming from the engine. This only seemed to happened when initially giving it gas. I drove it around the block to see if it passed, it continued but at a lessor degree o once above 40. Then as I sat with it running in park I noticed little power surges. The rpm gage would jump just a little and the lights on the dash would dimmer. Now what could this be? Please don't say transmission.

how do I reset anti theft system, changed battery terminal and now will not start, it just clicks, and remote start will just turn on running lights one second and nothing.

thermostate has been changed, radetor cap has been changed,

Ignition switch replaced in 2015. Nothing electrical will work, not even with a new battery.

Loosing antifreeze spraying all over motor does not overheat tried stop leak

My doors stay on the frix now all of my interior monitors just quit at once.

Car starts. Wipers and headlights won't turn off. Dash lights flicker. Red light dot is on dash above steering column even when car is off. Message center is blank. Van worked normal yesterday. Cold outside, -10ish, but kept in 50 degrees all night so cold shouldn't be a factor.

No heat on my feet.

Need to recalibrate the control? Also small ball bearing goes where on heater control knob? Heater works fine but is stuck on defrost only.

on is there a computer problem?

Where is shift solenoid? Can I replace it at home. Speed sensor replacement did nothing.

my abs light wont turn off

I came home from work parked it came back out to go to the store and no start

the where is the inside fuse to my Chrysler TownCountry cuz I can't find it

The passenger side door got kicked off the top rail. How do I get it back on myself?

Help! Actuators move when temp number is changed on either side. All modes blow air as designed, all fan speeds work. Heater core is clean as a whistle, hoses hot going in, slightly cooler going out. Radiator full. Restrictor valve clean. Removed actuators and operated doors by hand and I feel them going from stop to stop. I have found four actuators in this van, three on the drivers side (top one mode, front lower passenger, rear lower drivers) one on the passenger side under the blower casing (recirculation?). Still no heat, is there another? Sometimes (rarely) it will blow hot and then cool down and not get hot again. What am I missing? What else can I do to diagnose this problem, its driving me nuts!

Two injectors are misfiring, after I changed the timing belt, the car can only drive at 30mph. How can I reset the injectors, or have I made a mistake somewhere. I can hear that the engine is perfectly timed, but two injectors are shaking. 2.8 crd, 2009. Any advice appreciated.

all the time