Chrysler Concorde Questions

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is it my brake booster
cant get oil pan to fit
Car gets hot and thats what started it all. Think injectors jeed cleaning for sure cuz had torn intake pipe...since fixed. Statt car and runs great. Drive it few miles turn off and then start it and when u hit gas it bogs. U have to play with peddle to get gas to work but runs crappy. Also does this car need thermostait or will it run cool enough without it? Itnhas the 3.3l
the car has a new battery and year old alternator
My girlfriend has a 97 concorde and claims she gets a crank no start condition only when it rains or there is excessive moisture in the air. I currently go to school for automotive and have heard of this being because the moisture acts as a conductor and could ground out say your spark plug wires if they have cracked insulation have you personally seen this on these cars or could it be grounding out another electrical component. I had her crank the car while on the phone it doesnt sound as if the start is drawing to much current or struggling to turn over and after a few attempts she smells fuel.
About a year ago this problem occurred and it was loose battery cable connection.
P1684 is Battery Disconnected within the last 50 starts. P1391 is Intermittent Loss of CMP or CKP (Loss of Cam and/or Crank Position Sensor(s))

Other codes are present, and at least one of them the problems are known and due to be repaired as well. The two other codes are P0123 and P0456.

Fully story: The car starts and runs fine until it gets hot. Once it's gotten hot and been driven for a while, it starts acting like it's cutting out. Not a miss, more like a temporary but complete loss of electrical to the engine. It never does this when it's cold. It even stalls when sitting at a light. Again, it does all of this only when it gets hot. It's not a coolant issue. Good coolant and a new water pump. Coolant is circulating and fans/sensors/thermostats all operate correctly (to the best of my knowledge). I understand the EGR/EVAP system can cause some funniness, but those wouldn't completely kill the battery connection to the computer.

My issue is that P1684 being combined with P1391. I suspect the PCM is faulty, as I have not removed the battery connection in any recent time. The connections are clean and intact, both on the battery, and on the PCM. Is there another subsystem that could completely disconnect the battery from the PCM without physically disconnecting the battery? Perhaps the under-the-hood power relay box?

Any ideas, tips, or other inputs would be appreciated. Thank you for your time.
it wont pass smog until they rest
when driving if have to slow down around 40 mph sometimes wont shift into higher gear when i accelerate more
think it may be waterpump but not sure. saw fluid splashed under car
where is the location of the oil sending unit on my 2001 chrysler concorde
just replaced thermostat, and filled reservoir, replaced hi-lo relay, and started car. when at operating temp, fans kick on. decided to take around block and right away started to overheat again. Will bleeding stop this from o h? or will I need to test water pump too?
afer having cam & crank sensors replaced i picked up my car & drove it a few miles then the oil light came on & there is a engine knock after checking dipstick the car has oil & theres no signs of oil leaking
i replaced the brake pads on my car and my brake pedal is down to the floor
Rich mixture bank 1 , code PO 172 is present .Bank 1 has black dry plugs (1 MONTH OLD) . Bank 2 runs good with good clean plugs . Wouldn't mass air flow sensor ,fuel pressure ,or map sensor affect both sides ? there's a slight miss at cold idle when in drive. It sometimes goes completely away as you warm it up n drive it at hwy speed. It runs great at 70 mph. There are also times it bucks and kicks hard on acceleration . When its running good it even idles great. It has dual cats one directly off of each exhaust manifold. What does that leave other than bank 1 oxygen sensors or bank one exhaust ?
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