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Chevrolet S10 Questions

Get answers to questions about your Chevrolet S10 at RepairPal. Find solutions, diagnose problems and get back on the road.

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1,516
questions

my uncle's s-10 4.3 vin "W" is having a miss in cyl #2. He recently had the inj. assy. replaced. He says the injector nozzle doesn't fit snug, but locks, in the hole. Should there be an o-ring there? He says it doesn't have one.

truck will not start,tried starting fluid,i no was last resort,got this truck after so called techs replaced fuel pump.filter,had plug wires crossed,exhaust unhooked? any ideas

This is a new truck to me, service unknown. Starts up fine, idles with a slight roughness. Most people wouldn't notice anything. Drives fine until about 2000 RPM, going up a hill, or during acceleration, the check engine light flashes. The check engine does not come during slow driving or during idle.
I've given it a complete tune up. Oil, Oil filter, gas filter, spark plugs, wires, rotor, cap, coil. Next I was going to check the compression of cylinder #6. Oh yes, prior to changing the oil I added Seafoam to the crankcase, ran it for a few minutes then changed it.

i've got fuel to the throttle body but not thru the injectors

i changed fuel pump, it is working, im gitin fuel up to the bleader at back of intake, i have pressure, truck wont start unless i dump fuel into air cleaner tube

wut should i do now

i changed the fuel pump ant im giting gas to the bleeder valve but wont start

will start when i dump gas in the air cleaner tube

I was told by a friend that this requires dropping the entire steering column.

Transmission fluid is leaking from line or lines running along underneath. Not sure where it is leaking from. What does it take to replace them?

problem occurs everytime I try and start it what could be the problem

i pulled the tire off and the rotor is loose i believe its the wheel bearing i'm not sure though would that be the reason?

I have manual transmission, there is a times it starts no problem but sometimes it wont start. I have all the lights and electical power on dash but it wont crank the starter motor to start the engine, it can push start no problem. I am tired pushing to start the truck everytime. Please help.

was driving and the cable from the battery was resting against the belt pully. it sparked and the engine immediately shut down. other electrical seem to work (lights are bright, horn works etc). it is getting a spark at plug wires. can hear the fuel pump engage, have even primed it with gas but it still won't start. changed 2 relays on fire wall (had burn marks) and replaced the ignition coil, still won't start. it appears to not be getting fuel or spark to the engine. since it was primed would that rule out it's not getting fuel? is there other relays that i should check? any suggestions?
tried a jump, it cranks but just won't turn over and run. someone said it's the fuel injectors (do they have a relay i can check?) since the pump appears to be pumping. could the injection system been blown from the spark? could it be the fuel pressure? would that prevent it from starting? any ideal would be appreciated. thanks

the engine immediately shut off but lights were still on & bright, horn works, radio etc. But now the truck won't start. The gage shows in the - now, first tried a jump, then replaced ignition coils and some relays that had burn marks on prongs, but it still won't start. have checked fuses, it has gas (also primed it) still won't start. other electrical work ok so it's not the battery. it cranks but just doesn't start. what should i check next. my only form of transportation and need to fix a.s.a.p. appreciate the help / ideas / suggestions...thanks

what do i check next??? going to pull the spark plugs but i don't know what else to look for.

I cracked my oil pan in a recent accident and need to try and see if i can replace it. thanks

If there is one, what's the best way to get to it?

Lights and radio work. Have replaced the battery and starter.
Truck was running fine the day before.

Have replaced the battery and the starter. Still get l click and does not start. Lights and radio work fine. What do I need to check?

I had a P0300 code. Changed out fuel filter, throttle position sensor, cat converter, and coil for cylinder 2&3. The i got the P0420 code. If I just changed the cat with a brand new one, how can it be inefficient? Thanks for the Help.

How do I know which front end parts need to be replaced? The front end is out of alignment and it wobbles side to side at slow speeds. Much better at 45 and over. How do I figure out which parts need to be replaced first?

I have traced back to the connector right behind the wheel well and the frame on the drivers side. how can I see if when i turn on the driving lights the power is coming TO the connector? If i have power to the connector and the lights dont come on then I know it is after the connector and in the tail light wiring. tools=Multimeter

1989 Chevy S-10 4.3L V-6. When engine is cold I have to depress gas pedal to get engine to start and have to keep it depressed slightly to keep it running at idle speed or it will stall. Seems to idle a little better after engine warms up to normal operating temperature. Can't engage AC or Defrost when idling or engine will always stall. No Check Engine lights come on at all. Any ideas?

I have a 2003 Chev S10 ZR5 Crew Cab both electric seats quit working. Need to know where fuse or relay is located?

When the S10 sits, like overnight, the lifters make noise for a minute or two when it is first started, then the noise goes away.

Transfer case not engaged. Front axle continues to turn. Makes loud noise at higher speeds.

Replaced the clutch and slave. Flushed the line with mineral spirits, chased with dot 3 and bled. A complete success thanks to some help from you guys. 3 weeks later (yesterday) The clutch gradually begins to release very close to the floor making it tough to engage gears. Nothing at the top half of the pedal as if it were not attached at all. This morning back to normal. Until later in the day after a few miles. Shut it down to, say grocery shop, then the clutch feels normal again. The fluid level hasn't moved at all. WTF?

Was having problems with lack of power on acceleration when truck died in traffic and would not start. No noises, vibrations, etc before it died. Am told that two ignition coils were bad and timing chain broke. Truck has 99,980 miles. Could not find any maintenance recommended for S-10s or milage life expectancy for the timing chains.

thursday night ran fine, friday night wouldn't start. saw arching from coil wire, saturday moring changed all the wire one at a time like i was told, now it dump fuel in to the intake like u were pouring it in. wat shpuld i try?

After installing new flywheel clutch and pressure plate I'm trying to push the slave cylinder rod back into the slave cylinder forcing the fluid back to the clutch resevor just as you do when forcing a brake caliper back no matter how much I push on it it won't budge but loosen the slave bleader and the slave retract smoothly apon bleeding it I am worried that this was part of the problem in the beging that kept pressure on the throw out bearing and was the doom to all Should I be able to force the fluid back to resevor manualy?If so whats keeping it from returning clutch master maybe or do I need to loosen bleader and mount it to bell houseing and just go on worried if its keeping pressure on the new pressure plate going out of my mind" MAD DOG "