Chevrolet Lumina Questions

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I'm pretty sure it's the switch that's the problem, but I need to get the window up for now. I have the switch unplugged from its harness.
My Lumina-sedan 95 3.1L, has its ABS self-test after engine startup, showing intermitten "ANTILOCK" steady red light for non-functional. This happens after a shorten ABS cylinder motor turning noise from self-test.

But sometimes, no "ANTILOCK" red light, if the cylinder motor self-test can complete and make a longer turning noise. Please help before the problem get worse, thank you!
I recently notice that when my GM Chevy Lumina-Sedan LS 3.1L is idling, its RPM guage needle oscillates up and down slightly and not too fast like vibrating. Also, there is a humming noise from the engine compartment.

I want to fix this problem before it gets worse. Your advice will be appreciated.
Just started yesterday. Replaced alternator 7 months ago.
I just bought the car.Is there is a recall can i get this? HOW?
engine will turn over but not start
I have a 93 chevy lumina the check engine light came on someone told I needed a tune up. Well before I could do it the car started then died out now it won't start. It will crank but not fire I recharged the battery got the spark plugs n wires oil change. Nothin now I was told that the engine module could b bad. I cant go to the shop one it doesn't drive n for two they said they only check when the check engine light comes on not the service light. So I need to know how I could check myself if one of the coils r bad.
hi i have a chevy lumina 3.1 engine 1990. it will start fine if it hasn't been running. but after running for thirty minutes, being turned off, then tried to start again, it wont start. Almost as if something is overheated. well i think the problem started after i installed a new radio, I used the radio a few days then it blew a fuse to the (emc or radio fuse i dont remember exactly which fuse was blown) and quit working. the next day i checked the fuses and changed the broken one out it was a 15 for a new one i got from auto zone. the car drove me there fine. i think one place told me there was a short in the starter or the ignition i can not remember which one and i am trying to figure out which one they told me hope you can help. so the car starts fine when it hasnt been running, but when the car has been running for a while and turned off it wont restart. i get the lights to come on but the engine doesnt turn over, it does not make a clicking sound. i wait thirty minutes or so and it will restart if it is in the mid day of 90 degree weather it will take more like an hour before it will restart leading me to think that it is heat related. is there any way to check for a short in the starter or for a bad starter or for a bad solenoid how do i check to see what is exactly wrong with it? also the low coolant light comes on but i took it to the shop yesterday forthat and they said my engine looked great and my coolant system look great and it had fluid in all places it should... idk fan problem? electrical? or starter? they replaced the coolant level sensor but that seemed to be a waste of money. and they seem to not know what they are talking about with my car.
May I ask you how long it will take to do a changing lower intake gasket, cleaning the intake manifold, heads, and engine block's ridges for RTV sealants, for one person?

and does it require two persons?

Thank you for your advice.
I am trying to trouble shoot my car's starting up problem.
I would like to know what should be normal starter solenoid's contact Ohm electrical resistance,when it is switched ON, making click sound? and what should be normal voltage across the starter's motor when it is cranking? and voltage across the solenoid?

Thank you for your prompt assistance!
Regardless of whether I set the control to hot or cool I get hot air all of the time.
I am replacing my Chevy 95 3.1L Lumina-sedan's lower intake manifold gasket, without push rod guides (1st design). There are two types for after-market products: Victor Reinz's plastic(body)+rubber vs. Dorman's metal(body)+rubber.

Which one is better against coolant+engine oil leaks? Thank you.

PS: Dorman's frame design looks different though!!!
Code showed MAS was bad, replaced with used part. Light went out, but car would barely run - it would rev high upon startup, then rev dropped and it would sputter and die/almost die. It just kept doing that in a cycle. When we unplugged sensor, the car runs much better, however check engine light is then on.
have code p1665
Could someone recommend me a good sticky RTV silicone for sealing Chevy GM 3.1L 95, lower intake manifold outside side-wall to engine block? GE RTV IS803, Loctite RTV, or Permatex?
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